Forgot to mention as for R92 tinkering, am not trying to.frighten away.prospective buyers, as the guns are VERY nice for the price, most components (frame/lever/bolt/lower tang and possibly hammer/trigger) APPEAR to be machined forgings rather than castings, exceptions.to that would be for sure the cartridge guides/shell latch which appear MIM, and shell carrier/lifter MIGHT be cast but also possibly a forging. No cheap rough screws, even. The plastic magazine follower can be swapped for a stainless one from Palo Verde Gunworks for an affordable $14.
Biggest problems generally found are the guns are oversprung, especially in magazine spring (you want 6"-8" protruding from magazine when cap plug removed, and excess trimmed).
Ditto oversprung is the loading gate where mounting screw can be backed off a single fine thread/1-turn, as well as removed and SLIGHTLY tweaked to remove a bit of bend. In between the magazine spring and loading gate as supplied, loading can otherwise be very difficult...and a sharp thick corner inside frame at front of loading port catches rims and could use a slight bevel to break corner.
Worst oversprung problem is the ejector in bolt face, which all by itself can cause feeding problems ranging from hard to impossible, as it exerts so much pressure on cartridges that the rims bind against the cartridge guide rim slots stopping cartridge rise and that misalignment causes lead and brass up front to bind on sharp edged/cornered entrance to chamber.....if hard feeding, the very first thing.to do is swap the spring. An affordable/easy to find replacement can be bought at True Value or through Amazon at circa $6 for 6 springs, the Century Spring C-530 compression spring, which is 1" long,.7/32" O.D. of 0.020" wire.
If more than one shell feeds at a time, a good chance a prior owner or even the factory installed the flat shell latch spring improperly, the end should be under the latch (hinge pinned to end of cartridge guide) and arch in spring against the cartridge guide and NOT against the receiver.
Those few things account for 95% of problems encountered in the R92....
if a rare bird where working the lever tosses cartridges free, there would be excessive clearance between cartridge guides and the guide without the shell latch can be shimmed with brass shim stock cut with a paper cutter and clamped to wood for prick-punch starter hole and drilling, clean up hole to remove raised burring, hole size not critical as guide nests in receiver slot.
Another rarer problem is the lifter/carrier pops up violently enough to flip cartridges where they cannot feed, and this simply is because the lifter has a spring plunger protruding from the side which engages a slotted detent groove milled in receiver sidewall (to keep lifter from flopping up and down), and plunger is simply hanging and suddenly releasing on a too-sharp upper edge of slot, where breaking that edge is all which is required.
There are several good guides on the net for dis/re-assemhly, none are identical, as there are good things missing from one which might be found in another. It is not hard, but practice helps.
Sticking points might be finding buttstock stuck, where covering front of comb with a rag and whacking with a soft mallet will back it off.
The lower tang/trigger plate might also be hard to back out of receiver where same mallet and a wooden brush handle or dowel used to drive it back and out. The trigger pin is a loose fit, and can fall out, or protrude at reassembly and stop seating in frame, so before whacking harder at reinstall, look at the pin.
It generally is not necessary to disconnect locking bolts/blocks from the lever when dis/re-assembling.
The ejector/spring/collar can spring free on bolt removal/reinstallation, especially if you are needing to whack on other parts such as lower tang prior to securing bolt/ejector to lever with the stop pin, and you will save yourself a world of frustration if you simply place an empty case in the chamber, carefully insert bolt in receiver, slide it forward until in contact with case and then tap back of bolt to seat extractor on the case rim, the case retains the ejector and its parts, then you can slide bolt back enough to insert lever into the bottom (WITHOUT fully extracting case or it and everything goes flying) and then slide bolt forward enough to pin it all back together. Alternately, and perhaps better, you can stuff ejector/spring/collar in front of bolt without engaging collar in notch, insert empty in bolt face with ejector flush with same, and use a hooked scribe to pull collar forward and engage in notch (only possible with lighter spring), and again hold empty in place while inserting bolt. When repinning bolt/lever/extractor and empty catridge in place, if hammer strut/spring captive pinning is undone (pinned with very small nail or heavy paper clip) and hammer against bolt or in safety notch under normal pressure, it keeps the bolt from moving while bolt/lever/ejector secured by stop pin...as for that stop pin, you will need a very small diameter punch of 1/16th" for removal so don't even think of starting bolt removal without one. Several other sizes or subs handy for aligning holes.
By way of closing, will simply say that major components, the steel of which they are made, and their machining and finish, is on par with pre-64 Winchesters, while smoothness rivals my Browning/Miroku B53, on post-2000 R92s....it is a gun worth any of the above, or all of the above, tinkering, while odds are it will only require one or two of the above remedial steps.
