Sear pin very tight coming out.

[john seeley]

I still consider myself a beginner and I detail stripped my PCR fairly smoothly just for cleaning and minor upgrades. Then just this evening, I started to do the same with my P01. The sear pin was VERY tight,

It took some heavy hits to get the slave to go all the way through. Then discovered the resistance was coming from the left side of the frame. It actually looked like the pin was hitting or rubbing on the top of the recess behind the docker lever. Had to use plyers to pull the pin free with less than 1/16" in the frame. Same with the top mag brake pin. Very tight.

My question  how can I make these tolerances a little more manageable when reassembling. Can I sand the pins a bit? Or just deal with because it'll get easier with each detail strip. Any other tips? Thank you!

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

 I would simply take my time removing and reinstalling the sear pin adding a little oil to help it move and not try any sanding which will likely result in a looser fit than you want and also slop between the sear cage and frame and the internals in the sear cage.
I added CGW kits to all my CZ's but after that I never do more than field stripping for normal cleaning which consists of a scrub down with bore claener and rinsing the action out with an aerosol cleaner. Let it dry,lube it up and it's good to go. Unless you need to replace something or are adding a mod I can see no logical reason to detail strip for cleaning as everything is easy enough to get at by field stripping. Other than maybe a yearly removal and cleaning of the firing pin channel and behind the extractor if you want to do that.

[john seeley]

I hear you. Thanks. I'm also doing some light polishing and will replace the trigger pin. And of course I'm replacing the FPRP and cleaning the extractor area. Looked again this morning. It's bare metal where the pin was rubbing on the very outer part of the frame where the sear pin retaining collar (fixing insert) slides behind. I'll take your advice. Thanks so much!

[dbarn]

Of course the trick is to get the slave pin to be inside the frame evenly on both sides and and still within the sear cage so that it can be freely removed. Two things that help me is to use a piece of pine wood on the opposing side with a small diameter hole that keeps slight resistance on the sear pin as it’s driven out by the slave pin. This helps to keep all in place until the slave pin reaches the opposite side of the sear cage and is flush.

The second thing I do to ensure the slave pin is not driven out too far and past the tiny FPB lifter spring is that once the slave pin is flush with the right side of the frame, I swap over to a broken punch that’s about 1/8” in length and drive the slave pin perfectly flush inside the sear cage. Keeping your finger on the opposite side of the slave pin upon reassembly is also key.

[john seeley]

Thanks so much. I got the slave pin in a perfect position. Everything worked great.... just the sear pin was very tight. With the PCR, the slave went in nicely with just my thumb and maybe pressing it down on the desk of course while keeping both pins kissed. But this P01 was a bear. The slave was 90% inserted, well past the lifter spring, but the lifter spring was getting pinched or bound somehow... probably because my slave isn't perfectly smooth. I could tell because I lost tension on the lifter. Should have oiled the slave first. Backed it up a couple of times, fiddled with the lifter and then it worked. The piece of wood is a good idea to keep better pressure and save the finger. Thanks for the reply.

[john seeley]

Everything went back together smoothly except the sear pin retaining collar which was VERY tight going in. Well, it was tight coming out and needed a hammer and 1/16" punch to remove it and needed the same to put it back in, of course concave side down because it's not a perfectly flat collar. Chewed it up just a little   I'm 95% sure the sear pin is fully seated as confirmed with some solid hits from the hammer and also, it's recessed to the same degree as my PCR when looking at the right side of the frame, so I'm confident it's fully seated. What I should have done while the sear pin was still out was sand a little material off the dome-shaped end...  the end that's hidden. Maybe another time.