Slide Frame Fit

[Felipe1967]

I am the owner of a 85 Combat (00).  I noticed several details about the gun's execution.  One is the way in which the frame and slide meet at the "rear", hammer area.  I have a 75B (99) and the fit is completely flush.  On the other hand, the 85C is flush on the "outer ends" but not where the frame/slide meet next to the hammer.  The slide goes deeper, about 1mm.  Is this normal or a flaw?  All considered, aside from the slide release locking prematurely, FTE due to faulty extractors and weak springs, and the occasional round "diving" on the ramp, the pistol is nice and ergonomic.  If CZ would cured these defects at factory level any 75 series would be as reliable as my Sig 226 and Beretta 92FS (both with zero malfunctions after several thousand rounds).  Until then,  both the 75B and 85C will remain on probation.  I expected more from these weapons... I guess the price compensates.

[Walt-Sherrill]

The 85C is different because it uses an entirely different firing pin mechanism -- using a firing pin stop (a metal plate) to retain the firing pin.  The slide is just made differently in the area of the firing pin.  THe pre-B 75s are similar.

Sounds as though you've experienced ALL of the possible problems encountered with new CZ in one gun.  That would be discouraging for anyone.

If its any consolation, the same thing can happen with SIGS, GLOCKS and Berettas.   (I've seen it happen with my friends guns...)  We won't mention Colt.

The slide release locking prematurely has been discussed elsewhere here on the forum.  You probably need a new slide lock spring.  

FTE may mean that the extractor cavity is all cruddy.  Drive the pin out and pull out the extractor, then clean out the inset area with carb cleaner or some other good solvent (after removing your grips!!)   This is also explained elsewhere on the forum.

(You might be able to clean the extractor by just squirting cleaner into that area using the little plastic tubes that come with areosol cans of carb cleaner or brake cleaner [which is what I use], and not have to disassemble the extractor at all.)

The rounds diving generally has to do with crappy magazines (and too weak springs).  Are you using an old magazine?

The problems you cite are aggravating as hell, but all are usually cured easily and quickly.  

(You shouldn'tve have to fix them, and this kind of problem is much more rare with the "pricier" CZ-85 Combat than with the 75B.  Its not TOO common with the 75Bs, for that matter.)

[ut83]

Just a note....I shoot Sigs and Berettas also...the CZ's Ive had are far more reliable than Berettas and are equal to the Sigs....but thats just my experience.....
All three are "better" guns in everyones opinions....
Shoot well

[Walt-Sherrill]

I've also had slides lock back prematurely -- due to weak mag springs (which allow the top round to move around and nudge the slide stop upward...)

[Chubby-Pigeon]

There's an easy fix for one of the slidestop problems.  CZ, like many manufacturers, makes the slide stop stick out much farther into the frame than is actually necessary for it to engage the magazine follower.

Just file enough off of the protrusion that catches on the follower to prevent it from touching a round riding up, while still leaving enough for it to catch the follower.

Here's how to do it.

Load up a full magazine of whatever the widest-profiled, longest OAL load you use is.  For me, it's Remington Golden Sabers.  Now, without the slide assembly in place, insert the slide stop, and put the loaded magazine up the well.  Strip rounds from it by hand, until you get the second round in the magazine feeding from the column closest to the slide stop.  Take the magazine out, and tap the front of it against your hand, to get that round moved up as far forward as it can go.  You want to simulate a worst-case feed scenario, where the round has the best chance possible of nudging the slidestop upwards, on its way to the feed lips.  Reinsert the magazine, and in a well-lit area, get an idea of how much you need to file off.  Be sure to wiggle the magazine around, and get that round as close to the slidestop as you can.

Now, removed the slidestop, and start filing.  Don't get so happy that you completely eliminate the protrusion, or you'll eliminate your gun's ability to lock open on an empty magazine.  Take off enough to prevent contact with the round, and no more!  You literally want as little as .01" clearance, here!  Up to .03" or so is probably okay, but much beyond that, and you'll be ordering a new part.  Reinsert the slidestop, and check often, as you go!    Once you get to a point where you're certain that the round will not interfere with the slidestop, take first some high-grit sandpaper, and then some Flitz, or other high-quality metal polish, and put a mirror finish on bare metal spot you've created.  You can touch this up with cold blue, if you'd like, but just keeping a thin coat of oil on it will be fine to prevent rust; after all, it works for the bare metal in your slide rails, doesn't it?  What this mirror polish will do is insure that, even if some freak occurance does result in a round touching the slidestop,the touch will be light enough, and there will be so little friction, that the tension of the slidestop spring, alone, should prevent the slidestop from engaging.

This is a thirty minute procedure, and it can save you a lot of heartache.