If you remove the firing pin block components from the slide (#'s 58 & 59) but not the frame (#"s 14 & 15), reset will not change. Removing the #14 lifter and #15 spring and replacing them with the spacer, or by using the Pre-B sear, will cut your reset travel in half. Or at least that's the case with my stainless 75B.
If I were removing the firing pin block I would use the spacer, you may have to fit the new Pre-B sear if you chose that route. With the spacer there will be no fitting involved. Grinding and/or filing the bottom leg down on the #14 lifter will work too, but if you decide later to put the firing pin block components back in you will probably have to buy a new lifter to replace the one you modified.
For those who want to gauge how much reset will change on the trigger after the firing pin block lifter and spring are removed, You can try the procedure below.
Remove your slide, cock the hammer, then press down on the trigger bar (#7) while pulling the trigger all the way back. Now remove the pressure on the trigger bar and slowly release the trigger, make a mental note of where it resets, you'll hear the click and see the trigger bar raise a little when it does. Perform the same procedure again, but this time hold the firing pin block lifter (#14) up before you start to release the trigger.
With my 75B it was about half the distance needed to reset with the firing pin block components.
