Questions about the trigger fix

[rnw5252]

So, I did the trigger fix that was posted at the top using the 1500 grit sandpaper to lighten/smooth the pull.  I then re-oiled all of the internal parts and put it back together to test it out.  I did this several times trying to get it "just right."  However, I think that I might have over done it.  Now when I dry fire, there is a hitch right in the middle of the trigger pull that forces the slide back about 1/2 cm.  Should this be happening?  I can't remember whether or not this happened before I tried the fix.  Any advice?

[lee n field]

>Should this be happening?

No.  The only thing that should be moving is the firing pin in it's channel.  

Hmmmm.   Remove the slide and see if the firing pin does move freely in it's channel.

[Old Coastie]

rnw,

Field strip the pistol, then pull the trigger and see if you still have the "hitch", as you call it, at the same place in the trigger pull. There is a whole lot more moving during a trigger pull than just the striker. If you lost the hitch, something in the slide is the problem. If you still have the hitch with the slide off, the problem is with the fire control system still in the frame.

Please let us know which it is and we can continue from there.

Good shooting,

Mike

[rnw5252]

It has to be something in the slide.  When I work the trigger without the slide, the problem disappears.  I have a theory about what it possibly could be.  Maybe it's the end of the "claw" or part #32 as it slides past the bottom extending portion of the firing pin (#15).  Also, does the interrupter (#39) exert any backwards force on the slide as the trigger is pulled?  Thanks.

[Old Coastie]

OK. We're making some progress. First, let me say that some slide movement when pulling the trigger is not unheard of. Both of my 100's did it until I changed the factory recoil springs for Wolf Glock G10 increased power springs. I have a 22# spring in the 9mm and the 24# spring in the 40 S&W pistol. No slide movement now.

A very basic questions. Was this pistol new when you purchased it?

On to the hitch problem. Exactly what did you polish. I am not trying to find fault here, but for the life of me I can't imagine what polishing the fire control parts has to do with introducing a hitch or hesitation into the system that was not there before the fluff and buff. Did you disassemble the slide at all?

Let's try a test. With the pistol assembled, check that it is unloaded, then check it again. Once you are sure it is unloaded, point the pistol toward the ceiling and drop a wooden pencil down the barrel, erasure first. Now pull the trigger all the way to the rear. If the pistol is held about chest high, when you pull the trigger it should shoot the pencil at least to an eight foot ceiling. I just tried it with mine and I think mine could have hit a 9 or 10 foot ceiling.

The next test may hurt a little. Take the slide off the frame and turn it upside down. Pull the striker back until it stops. This will take some force since there is very little to grab and the striker spring is rather strong. While the striker was going back, did you feel the hitch short of all the way back, or did it move smoothly all the way?

If both of the previous tests are successful, with the slide still upside down, push down on the firing pin block, #9. It should retract smoothly into the slide.

Try these tests and please get back to us. We will get this corrected.

Good shooting,

Mike

[rnw5252]

Let's see - where to start...

Ok, the pistol was new when I bought it - complete with plastic bags and factory grease.

About polishing - I 'sanded' the trigger bar where it touches the interrupter, and where it slides under the disconnector.  This work beautifully until I noticed the slight slide movement.  The movement could have occurred before, but I didn't notice it.  Maybe I am having a heightened sense of awareness due to my tinkering.

I tried the pencil test.  The pencil didn't go as nearly as far as you said that it should have.  It jumped about six inches out of the barrel and that was it.

With the striker test:  the spring seems so strong that it is hard to move without considerable effort.  So much effort, in fact, that it is hard to feel for the hitch because of it.  Maybe I'm just a wimp.

I did try pushing the firing pen block.  It retracts into the slide very smoothly.

[rnw5252]

Also, sort of off topic.  Is the AroTek SS M19 Guide Rod along with the Wolff 22 lb spring a key upgrade?  If so, I won't hesitate to spend the $20 to $30 to get them.  22 lb would work for the 9mm, right?

[Old Coastie]

You really do not need the Aro Tec guide rod. I use it because I bought if for my G19 and noticed that it was almost exactly the same size as the factory plastic rod for the CZ100. The factory rod should work fine with the Wolff spring.

I think I left out a small point when I asked you to pull the striker to the rear and feel for the problem. When you did that, did you also depress the firing pin block? It should not stop rearward movement of the striker, but it is spring loaded and rides in a recess in the top of the striker. Possible friction?

Another thought. When the trigger is pulled the trigger bar moves rearward and eventually pushes against the cam which rotates rearward against its own spring and pushes the firing pin block up into the slide against its spring. You can see that the farther you pull the trigger the more springs you are compressing.

I am only guessing here, but I bet the trigger pull of your pistol as it came from the factory was far from smooth. I also am guessing that you removed considerable roughness by polishing what you did, and you might now be feeling some of the built in resistance of the system which had previously been masked by a rough trigger pull.

Have you called CZ-USA yet and asked about this problem? As your pistol is new, they should actually deal with this under warranty. You might even get them to pick up the shipping for you. It's worth a try.

Good shooting,

Mike

[rnw5252]

Thanks for the advice, Mike.  The more that I think about it; I believe that the hitch was already there when I bought it, and I am just focused on it now.  I guess I will try your other two suggestions to find points of friction in the system.  

I am also going to buy the Wolff spring since it's less than $10 - I think - online.  

I only have one last question: the fact that the pencil only 'jumped' out of the barrel about 6 inches, does this mean that this striker has a higher potential to not fire the round?

Thanks for all of you help.  I truly appreciate it.

[Old Coastie]

To be perfectly honest about the test with the pencil, I did not try it before I worked both of my 100's over. I totally disassembled my pistol and polished everything including the firing pin (both inside and out) and the firing pin channel. I even polished the firing pin spring. Anal ain't I! It is like a different pistol. Maybe someone with a box stock pistol will try the pencil trick so you can make a fair comparison.

Good shooting,

Mike