HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[feed-the-monkey]

What is confusing about all this info, is that it doesn't seem to make sense with the malfunction. The first thing to check would be to make sure the mag springs are not too weak. If they are weak, it could cause your malf. especially with the last few rounds. I'd start there. Did it do it with all of your mags?

If it is not the spring, and you KNOW the slide is not coming back all the way after cycling, you can rule out getting caught on the slide lock since it isn't even getting that far back. UNLESS you are pushing up very hard on the slide lock causing severe friction on the slide which I highly doubt.

You said you purcahsed a 20# spring to replace the factory 17# spring. That is exactly opposite of what you would want to do if the spring was the problem. If the spring was too stiff, then you just made it stiffer and should have increased the likely hood of the malf.

Also, if the barrel wasn't going 100% into lockup, this should have no effect on the slide coming back all the way, in fact the slide should be coming back with more than the usual force since it doesn't have to go through the complete unlocking of the barrel.

I can see where having a burr on the lug could slow the slide down on it's travel back, and that could be the problem. I would check the timing of the barrel and the barrel to slide/frame fit to see what the problem is. The extra power recoil spring might help to make sure the slide goes all the way home.

Can not comment on the barrel hardness. Never checked or noticed it to be a problem, but I'm not an expert in that area.

[ut83]

FTM...good questions.
My mag springs are cz 1 ton truck springs.  They are new and clean mags and I really, really doubt they are the problem.
I dont know the slide is coming back as far as it is designed too? How do you tell?  It shoots and cycles wonderfully except when I have this ghost = FTF problem.  I have had other people who are better at this than I am, watch me shoot and my hand interferring with the slide lock isnt a prob.
I did replace my spring and have had 1 FTF with Win White box which seems to be the main player in my problem. Too much spring pressure for an under loaded round?
I cant comment of the slide coming back too fast because of being fired outside of the locked position.  The slide seems to cycle just fine...most of the time.
The problem with the "drag" created by the burr/crown on the barrel against the slide was apparently the problem with my FTF.  I am still shooting the gun with the barrel problem corrected and keeping track of reliability...Also checking the
barrel after each shooting session.  The burr seems to come back to a minor degree...so the problem persists.  I have checked the fit as well as I know how , with my limited experience with this I think it looks good....

Here is a possible theory...its long and boring...but I need input.  If I am shooting ammo that isnt up to what the gun
needs to cycle.  Then the slide isnt moving at adequate speed.  Upon the return stroke the slide, gets the new rnd from the mag, chambers it but doesnt have enough force to get the extractor past the round and the slide stops before it is fully closed.
When the slide doesnt close fully, the barrel isnt locked down, but the round is chambered and can be fired.  The position of the barrel, when the extractor gets "hung up" is about where it would need to be to almost but not quite get the lug into the locking groove in the slide.  If this happens on a "regular" basis the burr/crown on the barrel will grow and slowly begin to interfere with the slide..slowing things down more.  With this interference between the slide and barrel,
the slide will increasingly slow down and consistantly not let
the extractor past the chambered round....see the cycle.?
As you can tell , I have played with my gun and thought of
anything my brain can think up.....what do you think.??

I am calling CZUSA tomorrow and will let you know...shoot well

[feed-the-monkey]

Ok, you have identified something here. If your extractor is having to go OVER the rim of the cartridge while chambering a round, you have a problem. The rim of the cartridge should slide up the breach face UNDER the extractor as it is being pulled from the mag. Does this make sense?

So if your gun chambers the round, but stops just out of battery with the extractor hook touching the rim but not over it, this is the next place to start looking.

[ut83]

It made sense until I cycle a couple of rounds and saw what it does.  The slide pushes the bullet up the feed ramp and it is steep and short enough, its in the chamber before the slide actually is in "battery" ...this is with me hand cycleing it..it may be different when actually firing the gun.  And I wont be able to see what its doing then.....

I just realized something....If it was getting hung up on the extractor...It wouldnt extract the spent cartridge!  The extractor lip would be behind the rim and couldnt catch the shell, pulling it out...that cant be it.  CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It has never had a FTE....Ok, back to square one.....

Shoot well

[weemsf]

If you weapon is firing partially out of battery, that is really pretty dangerous.  A case may bulge and come apart on you throwing all sorts of little ditties into your hand and gun.  I had a Makarov do that to me once, but it was a high primer that the slide ignited as it went into battery.  Hurst quite a bit and for a second or two you are sure if you have a hand that will be worth looking at again.  Sounds like you barrel might not be properly fitted to the locking lugs in the slide.  That will take a gunsmith to fix.  Possible that you might need a new barrel.

Now if you guys can tell me why my wife's 1989 Sable is coming out of gear when stopping I would appreciate it.  (Just kidding)

[ut83]

If its a stick , you have back Synchro's..little bronze gears and bushings that help align your gears and keep them in place.  If its an Auto, your shifter has a "patterned" guide that it has to follow"...pull out to shift from drive to any other gear..or push the button to get it from drive if its a floor shifter...when you pull out or push the button ...it releases a "pattern" lock and sometimes the plates with the pattern wear out.....make sense....shoot well

[armoredman]

ut, are you a mechanic? I could have used your service a while ago....
   Dave

[ut83]

Dave...maybe kinda but not really.  LOL  I grew up restoring and driving old muscle cars with my dad.  First engine overhaul at 9 on my ginnue pig honda 70 and its been down hill from there.  My dad raced for ford in the early 60's and
its in the blood.  I built, drove, raced, repaired and got my own cars impounded for years.  I just know a little about cars and luckily dont have to play with them anymore unless I want to.  That is all....shoot well

[armoredman]

I want a 67 Mustang for my son, if I can still get the fuel additive when he grows up, or if gasoline is even still available!
   Dave

[ut83]

Dave ...sit down and ponder this question seriously.K?
Will you adopt me.?  You can get your 289-390 heads done
to take unleaded fuel.  All they do is harden the ex. valve seat
area and sometimes put a new exhaust valve in.  Not to expensive and you can become a tree hugging muscle car dude in the process.  Shoot well