Are plated bullets sensitive?

[m39nut]

I've been reloading both the Berry's 124gr HBFP and the HBRN. I notice some groups are very good and some, not so much from the same powder and OAL, particularly the HBFP. All of the HBRN could use some help. Could my crimp and belling be doing something to the bullets? I'm trying to use a light crimp, about 0.0005" using a mike that reads in tenths, but am now questioning myself. Maybe I am not flaring the case enough? When I insert the bullet to length before crimp my case diameter is about 0.375".

[Wobbly]

You want just enough belling so that small slivers of copper are not appearing under the seating station.

You want just enough crimp to return the case to the size you would have had if you had used zero belling. Since Berry has that generous radius on the base, that an easy experiment to do. Typically you'll end up in the .377 to .379 range, but case wall thickness can change all that.

If you use your kinetic hammer to remove a crimped-in bullet, there should not be a mark (an indented ring is common) on the bullet.

 

[1SOW]

Typically you'll end up in the .377 to .379 range, but case wall thickness can change all that.

If you use your kinetic hammer to remove a crimped-in bullet, there should not be a mark (an indented ring is common) on the bullet.

Ditto!

[m39nut]

The bad news is I shot up all of my reloads today so I can't tell if there were any marks on the bullets by pulling them. I did not see any shaving of brass around my press so that would be a good sign. I did notice that the nose of the HBRN did seem to deform a little even though I was first seating then crimping in two steps, so I may need to add a little more bell. Judging by what I have read here and elsewhere I might jump from 4.4 grains to 4.5 grain of HP38 as this might help the accuracy a little. I will probably drop the HBFP for even though it is more accurate the primres stated to flatten even if I was well below max load according to the AA website data.

The interesting thing is that I did better on steel with the HBRN after my bench test today than with the other loads since it had less recoil.

[1SOW]

m39nut,
My favorite bullet and load is not the most accurate load I have,   but I can hit steel and the A-zone faster and more consistantly with it.  Go figure.

If the nose of the bullet deformed at all, your seating stem likely needs to be changed to one that conforms better to that bullet.  Even with a no-flare case the bullet nose-shape shouldn't be affected.

I will probably drop the HBFP for even though it is more accurate the primres stated to flatten even if I was well below max load according to the AA website data.

Max. load with AA#5 is pretty hot.   Berry's recommends no higher than "mid-range" jacketed load data for their standard plating thickness bullets. In another place, they say "no faster than 1200'/sec".   

I'll be testing my HBFN load Tues. with light loads.

[Wobbly]

Are plated bullets sensitive?

IMHO they can be 'thin skinned', and tend to take corrective suggestions as personal attacks. 


+1 to the above.
Plated bullets are very soft and can easily be damaged. They are really no more than a cast lead bullet that's been plated over. Unlike jacketed bullets, your dies and cases can easily leave marks and indentations. Therefore, not only do you need to be careful not to over-crimp, which might break through the plating, but you need to use a seating anvil that closely fits the shape of the bullet's nose. Some seating dies, such as Hornady and Dillon, supply a second anvil for flat nose bullets and those anvils should be utilized.

 

[FireMoose]

I just found one under my workbench. It'd been crying for 3 weeks. Thought I ditched him.

[m39nut]

I remember seeing a link to making the round nose conform better by using some form of epoxy to mold the bullet shape of the Berry's RN bullet into the anvil. Does anybody remember what they used as a mold release so the bullet wouln't get stuck in the anvil while curing the epoxy.

[1SOW]

A thin coat of vaseline or oil has worked for me with other similar uses for epoxy glue. 
P.S.  JB-Weld (original slow cure) is the only epoxy I will use for anything important. 
YMMV

[Wobbly]

You could also use plastic sandwich wrap, like "Glad Wrap".

[Coastwatcher]

I just found one under my workbench. It'd been crying for 3 weeks. Thought I ditched him

I saw its picture on a milk carton the other day.  Glad you were reunited.