Scorpion trigger job in a box idea?

[Destructo6]

Was thinking about the various solutions to the horrendous stock Scorpion trigger...dangerous, I know.

HBI springs = halve the pull weight.
Shim the pack = halve the pre-travel and over-travel.

both are incredibly inexpensive and together make a world of difference.

Shimming the pack by gluing ~.016" thick strips of brass or what material you have fore/aft of the trigger opening works great, but there is a possibility that the glue could release the shim in the violence of recoil. This happened to me with the rearward shim during a match and killed my stage.

Does someone here have the expertise and desire to make a sheet metal stamping of say 27 gauge steel  (.0171" thick) that would be held in place by the trigger pivot pin?

What I imagine is a u-channel shim, with a cutout at the bottom for the trigger opening and a pin hole on both sides of the upright portions for the trigger pivot pin. There's plenty of room on the left side of the trigger box and I believe there's plenty on the right side (might even alleviate the problem of the trigger rebound spring getting cockeyed).

You simply disassemble your trigger pack, like you would to install the HBi springs, and before reassembly, you drop the u-shaped shim inside the trigger box.

That's it and there's no gluing and nothing to come unglued.

Anybody interested?

[DanT]

I have found that not all epoxy glues are the same.  There are a few "toughened" epoxy formulations that are available on the market.  Most epoxy formulations found in the store are not the "toughened" formulations.

Here is a 3M paper that talks about this:

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/774716O/mechanicals-versus-structurals.pdf?&fn=MechanicalsVsStructurals.pdf

The main advantage of these improved formulations is shear strength.  Most of the common epoxy formultions that I have tried are weak in shear strength when a sideways force is applied such as rifle recoil.

The most commonly available "toughened" formulation that I know of is JB Weld (not JB Kiwk).  I have run 1000s of rounds through my carbine and have not have a problem.  The nice thing about this formulation is that it is rated for automotive environments (up to 550 degrees F) and has a strength of ~ 4000 PSI.  A hot, greasy, constantly vibrating car is a bit similar to what happens in our rifles.

- DanT  Phoenix, AZ.

[Earl Keese]

I welded mine and filed. With test fitting & reassembly it took maybe an hour.

[DanT]

I should also add that if you are going to glue the shims into place, there are a few more tips that will help.

- Make sure to prepare the two surfaces being glued together.  Use a file to get the paint off the area being glued to, and then make sure to rough up both surfaces with a file.  Smooth surfaces are harder to bond together.

- Make sure the surfaces are clean and free of oil

- Make sure to "wet" both surfaces being glued together with the epoxy.  I use a toothpick to "rub" the epoxy onto both surfaces to make sure both sides are "wet" with epoxy.  This seems to be an important step that is often overlooked.

- DanT  Phoenix, AZ

[Destructo6]

I used the Loctite version of the toughened epoxy. I, too, seemed to have overlooked the wetting both surfaces before mating. I'll do that if it comes loose again.

However, I was thinking a u-shaped shim, held in place by the hammer axle pin would be dummy-proof to install and impossible to dislodge. Manufacture would seem to be possible in 2 operations: 1) punch holes and exterior shape, 2) fold to final form. Admittedly, it's been almost 20 years since I've worked with punch presses.

I suppose a fair consideration is how precise are CZ's stampings of the trigger housing.