These are the same things to be done with all powder measures.
+1. There are
certain basic steps that have to be done with any powder measure regardless of style, brand or manufacturer, to get consistent "powder drops". That's the place to start. Those are simply process refinements. Learn and follow those.
In northern environments, or any where winter static electricity levels are higher,
plastic powder measures need special care. Owners need to treat the plastic PM with anti-static wipes and washes. Plastic measures are inexpensive and do a good job, but are always going to have far more wear and static issues. So while they are great to get you started with reloading, they may not be able to meet the demands of a serious reloader.
Metal PMs tend not to have as many problems with static. Of the variable cavity type PMs,
the smaller the cavity cross-section, then the greater the accuracy is going to be. Years ago the big area of reloading was rifle; that has now all switched to pistol shooting. So while the RCBS UniFlow is a fabulous PM, the smaller bore Redding and Hornady measures are theoretically going to do better with sub-6gr pistol loads. (For Dillon users, they offer a special mini-slide for use with 25 cal and 380Auto loads.)
Finally, there are some powders that simply will not meter well. Be cognizant of that fact. Your ball-type (Accurate No2, No5, etc) and your flattened-ball-type (Win 231 and WSF) are always going to meter better. That's simply a fact of their design. There will always be metering issues with big-flake-type (700X) and big crystal-type (Unique) powders.
