Hammer follow, not a good thing. Whenever I change the hammer and sear parts in a pistol, any pistol, I check to see if I can make the sear not engage the hammer hooks in the shop with no ammo around first. I do this by rapidly racking the slide with the trigger pulled, in several positions, with and without the trigger pulled, etc. If it passes that shop test, there is a good chance the new parts are safe. But the real test is live fire. When I go to the range, I load two rounds in the magazine and fire those. If the sear misses engaging the hooks, the worst that can happen is two rapid shots, with the second one being the result of the sear not engaging the hammer hooks. Then I try 3 rounds, then 5, then 10, always being wary that the gun may go full auto. If it doesn't go off unintentionally during the first 50 rounds or so after a modification, I call it good and don't look back after that.
I haven't heard of anyone else ever having to use the heavier sear spring lately so maybe the original issue which resulted in CGW including the heavier spring have been eliminated. CGW would need to confirm. I use the heavier sear spring now to make the minimum trigger pull weight for a competition gun and to give me a better feel for the trigger pull, not because of any safety issue.
I hope I'm not creating any unnecessary concern here. Just be careful and verify for yourself that the gun functions normally with whatever parts you want to use. There is enough variation in the factory parts to have resulted in some tweaks being needed on some pistols, at least there was a few years ago.
Joe
