Removing Disconnector

[ad5md]

I am about to order the straight trigger, starter punch and trigger pin from CGW to convert my SP01 Shadow to SA.  I was told over the phone (CGW) that the disconnector need to be removed, is there any video or link showing how to remove it? Thanks

[Tok36]

The first guide is for an SP-01 with a Firing Pin Block. Your Shadow dose not have a Firing Pin Block. So disregard the parts about the FPB. The sear in a shadow or other Non FPB CZ is wider, this takes up the space where the FPB lifter arm is located in a CZ with a FPB. The Shadow slide also lacks a FPB Plunger and the associated spring.



CZ Tuning 101 with Professor Atlas
http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?/topic/191773-cz-tuning-101-with-professor-atlas/


Shadow Trigger Job ending with 4#DA
http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=42644.0

[SPO1SHADOW]

Remove the magazine brake, the hammer spring, then the sear cage and then remove the hammer. Take your starter punch and get the pin in the disco started which is installed on the bottom front of the hammer and then drive it out with a regular punch. You will not need the disco or the pin that holds it. You will need to remove the sear cage anyway to get your trigger changed out. You will need the starter punch to get the trigger pin out so buying it was a very smart purchase.

[copemech]

It is not absolutely necessary to remove it, but in the words of David, it will become  a dangling appendage.

[ad5md]

Tnx for the replies guys....so what are the pros/cons of removing/not removing the disconnector?

[SPO1SHADOW]

You really do not want to leave it in the gun with the SAO trigger. It will suck big time!

[ad5md]

gotcha.....will take a look at the procedure to remove it..scared with the small parts/springs lol

[DOC 1500]

Use your phone and start and stop the videos to disassemble and reassemble. A year ago I knew absolutely nothing about the internals of a pistol Then followed videos on YouTube, and I was able to totally disassemble and reassemble my po7 with really not any trouble at all. Just make sure you have all the right tools, you'll do fine.

[copemech]

The pins that retain the disco and strut are really tight and tough to move, thus necessitating the starter punch. Your backing is critical as you need a solid anvil type surface.

I use a 1/2 in thick steel plate with a small hole drilled into it for the pin to pass, placed upon concrete. SOLID!

Some have had good success using an automatic center punch as a starter punch. Good idea but I have not tried it as yet.