Problems after CGW parts install

[ferrarif1fan]

I would typically call CGW to discuss this issue, and may still do so on Monday morning, but I just installed a comp hammer, 85 trgigger and extended left side safety on my new SP-01 Compact (steel frame with rail). While the pistol was apart, I went ahead and did the normal polishing of parts as outlined in the stickies on this forum. This included the trigger bar, underside of sear cage, underside of sear and sear face, and FPB lifter arm. I used 500 grit automotive sandpaper to smooth the grind marks out, then finished up with 1000 grit paper and a buffing wheel. I felt like I barely removed any metal.

After getting everything back together, I'm having a couple of problems. First, in double action, I cannot get the hammer to fall. It cocks, but seems like I just don't seem to have enough trigger travel to release the sear. The trigger overtravel screw is all the way in, so that's not the issue. Also, in single action, if I pull the trigger quickly, the hammer falls as normal. If I slowly squeeze the trigger, it decocks, even though this pistol has a safety.

I believe this is some type of timing issue, but I don't know why the parts changeout has induced it. I just don't feel I removed enough metal on any part to have caused it. I also specifically asked CGW to make certain the parts would work in a CZ model 99021 pistol.

Can anyone shed any light on this issue?

[Stuart]

Sounds disconnector is catching the trigger bar?
Factory or new one?

[cntrydawwwg]

Also, are the springs riding in the triggerbar grooves?

[Tok36]

Man, you guys get up early.

[ferrarif1fan]

The disconnector is the stock piece. All I did was shine up the two areas that contact the trigger bar. Again, no real metal removed, just smoothed and polished.

I did not realize there were grooves for the trigger bar spring to ride in. Will check that now.

[M1A4ME]

It really shouldn't be (but funny things happen) but have you confirmed that the new safety isn't interfering with the travel/movement of the sear?

You replaced the left side safety and that's the one that works with the sear.  The lobe/cam on the safety shaft should be rotated forward and out of the way of the sear when moved to the FIRE position, but I'd confirm no contact between them, just to be sure.

"Timing" is a concept I'm still trying to figure out, so no helpful ideas there, from me.

If you unload it, point it upwards, drop a pencil in the barrel and get the hammer to drop - does the pencil pop up, or out of the barrel, or just sit there?
If the pencil doesn't move that may be telling you that there's interference with the trigger bar and firing pin safety block lifting arm (I don't know if that's a timing issue or just two parts not correctly fitted/working together.)

But that dropping to the half cock notch on the hammer thing is another finger pointing at the sear not moving fully upwards (the rear moves upwards to release the hammer when the trigger bar pushes against the front of the sear.)

[ferrarif1fan]

Well, I thought about the new safety interfering with the sear movement. With the safety off, there is a little ledge on the cross bar of the safety that it almost looks like the sear might hit as the little arm (that the safety acts on) rotates downward. But the problem for me is that these issues are intermittent. I took everything apart and cleaned everything really well. I may have had a little polishing compound residue on the rear portion of the trigger bar. So now, most times, the hammer will fall with a double action trigger pull. But a slow single action pull pretty much decocks the hammer everytime. If I had to guess, there's some issue between the interplay of the trigger bar and disco. If no one here identifies the problem, I'll be on the phone with CGW on Monday morning.

[copemech]

This is a simple fix if you have the correct stuff. CGW will tel you how.

[ferrarif1fan]

Well, CGW told me to add a chamfer to the leading edges of the wings on the disconnector. I did that and had the same problem. I then took a couple of thousandths off of the bottom of the wings and still no joy. I took the hammer out and reassembled everything to see what's going on under the sear cage when you pull the trigger. As the trigger bar comes back, it contacts the FPB first and begins the lift the arm. Next, it contacts the lower leg on the sear and begins to rotate the sear upwards away from the hammer hooks. But I noticed that as the trigger bar comes back, it also begins to move downwards. So apparently, it's not moving down either quickly enough or low enough to clear the disconnector when the sear releases the hammer. I've contacted CGW by email. Anyone else have any suggestions? This is not a good way to start my return to CZ after selling my P-01 about 7 years ago.

[Tok36]

It is no fun when you can not get your CZ working. From your description it sound like you still have a disco clearance issue.

I would call CGW on the phone when you have a chance. They get to see more CZs than most of us combined. Voice communication may be an assets in this situation and get things solved quicker.

[ferrarif1fan]

yep, turned out the disco was the problem. I had chamfered the underside leading edge of the "wings", but apparently not enough. I also discovered I had removed just a bit more material from one wing when I measured the thickness of both. So once they were both even, and I put a larger chamfer on the leading edges, the SA trigger pull started working as it should. Now I'll get it to the range and run 50-100 rounds through it to make certain everything works as intended. Thanks to CGW and all here for the help!

[Tok36]

Glad you got it worked out. Thank you for the followup.

[M1A4ME]

There was a discussion going on at a different forum about disconnectors, how to tell it was a problem, where to remove metal, etc., etc.  With some disagreements about the correct way to fix that guy's problem.  Some people are pretty sure of themselves.  Or pretty set in their ways.

Hopefully, I'll never have to mess with one of mine.

[schmeky]

Ferrari1fan,

So glad you got it ironed out.  In fact, it's not a bad thing if you had to take it down twice, going slow, especially on your first attempt, is preferable to ruining parts.  When you said the first attempt didn't fix it in your e-mail, I was pretty confident the 2 go round would probably be about right.

This "fix" lets you see first hand what a mere few thousands can do in the CZ lock work.  Good job!!

[copemech]

Now go get yourself that CGW disco so you only have to deal with one wing! Ultralite kit!