Factory trigger pin - what tool do they use?

[timmy75]

Do you guys know how to install factory trigger pin (not CGW) properly?  What exact tool is used to make it perfect like in this picture?
I know how to do it with punch but it never turns out so perfect looking.

[Wobbly]

The factory pin is a straight wall dowel with drilled divots on each end. Being a "straight wall" pin, it can be pushed into place with finger tip pressure once the trigger hole and receiver hole align.

THEN, once the pin is in place, each end is 'upset' or 'belled' using a standard center punch shaped tool. It's that flair that's been added to both ends of the pin that makes it nearly impossible to re-use. I suppose you could use a metal lathe or similar rotating tool to remove the flair so that the pin could be reused.

What you are seeing in the photo is the inside of the cone left by the flairing operation. What you cannot see is the expanded end of the pin, which has belled outward into a counterbored hole. It's this expansion of the ends of the trigger pin that hold it in place.


I believe the belling operation is done slowly in a VERY controlled way with a press... not abruptly upset with a hammer and punch. That is the difference between the factory working on hundreds and an individual working on 1 gun.

You could more closely replicate the factory by placing your center punch in a drill press chuck, and then using the "press" action of the drill press (motor OFF) to create the flair. Doing the operation slowly adds the degree of control you are probably missing and looking for.

[HollowDawg]

Had the same problem with it ending up looking a bit bubba'd. After 4 attempts I gave up and went with a CGW floating pin. best decision by far imho.

[timmy75]

/

Thank you for your detailed answer. English is not my native language, so I am exploring what some terms mean but essentially I understand your post.

Had the same problem with it ending up looking a bit bubba'd. After 4 attempts I gave up and went with a CGW floating pin. best decision by far imho.

I am not trying to work on a used pin. I was wondering if it is possible to make unused, not flared pin to look like factory fit. Sometimes I work on some friends' pistols and they want it back to "factory condition", but at the end they always end up with CGW pin.

EDIT: Question:
I was wondering why CZUB is using a pivot pin instead of a floating pin for that part?
My reasoning: If TRS is broken, you can still reset the trigger manually with pivot pin and the floating pin can and will drop out because spring tension is not holding a pin?

[Joe A.]

My P01 Omega came with a floating trigger pin which is a larger diameter pin than the CGW’s floating trigger pin that I installed in my PCR.

[cntrydawwwg]

My P01 Omega came with a floating trigger pin which is a larger diameter pin than the CGW’s floating trigger pin that I installed in my PCR.

Was this a new pistol? Just curious.

[Joe A.]

My P01 Omega came with a floating trigger pin which is a larger diameter pin than the CGW’s floating trigger pin that I installed in my PCR.

Was this a new pistol? Just curious.

Yes, it was a new pistol.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

My P01 Omega came with a floating trigger pin which is a larger diameter pin than the CGW’s floating trigger pin that I installed in my PCR.

The OMEGA action is a completely different animal than the standard 75 series and yes it has a floating reuseable trigger pin while the standard variants are staked from the factory such as what is being discussed in this thread.

[Wobbly]

Question:
I was wondering why CZUB is using a pivot pin instead of a floating pin for that part?
My reasoning: If TRS is broken, you can still reset the trigger manually with pivot pin and the floating pin can and will drop out because spring tension is not holding a pin?

CZ makes a lot of the LEO guns used in Europe. There may be a clause in the requirements package for a semi-permanent trigger pin in one or more of these contracts, or some such. Or maybe they simply feel that being acted on by finger pressure only, that the calculated "life" ("mean time between failure") exceeded the life expectancy of the entire gun.

I seem to remember that the contract that created the P01 was for a lifetime of 30,000 rounds. Stress-wise, that's about as hard as blinking your eye lids 30,000 times. Why increase your chances of failure, just to make it easy on a gun smith ?

In short, that's one of those questions that the reason is so obscure that you may never get an answer.