Trigger Smoothing Help Please

[SrWilliams]

For the life of me I got to ask this crazy base question!

I have watched all of the videos on youtube and read all of the posts here going back to August 2017 (with me being a new member here as well as new to the scorpion platform). All of the videos and posts speak to how to disassemble the trigger for polishing and how to reassemble. But they all skip over the ACTUAL POLISHING PROCESS. Can someone please tell me what do they mean by polishing and exactly what products and process are used to actually do the POLISHING.

All of the sources assume one knows these matters. But for us newbies out there the information is needed. Trust me I researched everything before posting these elementary questions. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

[jameslovesjammie]

When I did mine, I:

1. Completely disassembled the trigger assembly.
2. Using a Dremel with a felt wheel and polishing compound, start polishing all the pieces, staying away from the sear and hammer contact surfaces.  I started with the coarser grit and worked down to the finest one.  I finished with Flitz, which is a very mild polish.
3. LIGHTLY touched the sear and hammer contact surfaces with a stone, not removing any material or changing any angles, but just cleaning up the surfaces.
4. Cleaned everything with Brake Cleaner.
5. Reassembled with SLIP2000 as a lubrication/preservative.  I like SLIP because it has a wider temperature band that it can operate in.

Easy, peasy, lemon-squeezy.

[SrWilliams]

Not so much the takedown but Man the actual polishing sounds complicated. I do not even know what the sear is and hammer surfaces. I had better leave this alone

[3guneric]

Take the easy way for $40.

https://www.shooterselement.com/collections/services/products/trigger-internals-polish-service

[ShootersElement]

Take the easy way for $40.

https://www.shooterselement.com/collections/services/products/trigger-internals-polish-service

This x1000 but i may be a little biased hahahah

[akuser47]

Not so much the takedown but Man the actual polishing sounds complicated. I do not even know what the sear is and hammer surfaces. I had better leave this alone

Send it to shooters element he will sort it out best money you can spend if your not comfortable in stripping it down and doing it yourself. Also keep us posted to what you do and how you like it.

[DanT]

If you simply remove the lower from the gun, you can manually cock the hammer, pull the trigger and see how things work.

With the hammer cocked back, two hooks on the front side hold the trigger cocked and ready to fire.  These hooks are the sear.  Polish under them and polish the hammer "wings" they hook onto.

Pull the trigger and "catch" the hammer with your thumb so it does not crash into things.  With the trigger still pulled all the way back, cock the hammer again.  A hook on the rear catches the hammer on a rear shelf.  This hook is the disconnector.  The limits the rifle to one shot per trigger pull.  When you let go of the trigger, the rear disconnector lets go ("trigger reset") and the front trigger hooks then "catch" the hammer, ready for the next trigger pull.  Polish the bottom side of the disconnector hook and the hammer shelf surface it rides on.

There is a long lever to the front right side.  Polish the lever on the side against the wall and the wall itself.

Just by looking at the trigger assembly and working it a bit you can see what is moving against what and tell what needs polishing.  Ok, maybe that long lever is not so obvious, but I find it to be "the" major source of drag in the assembly when I pull the trigger on a "fresh" trigger assembly.  The HBI spring set has a thin washer that moves the lever slightly away from the trigger wall to try to reduce this friction.

CZ seems to coat everything in a black material that is not smooth.  Thus the "gritty" feel.  In general you are removing the black gunk and exposing shiny metal underneath. 

I can see where firing the gun a lot might naturally wear these trigger surfaces smooth.  You could likely "dry fire" the lower all by itself 500 to 1000 times.  I am not sure if you would smooth out the trigger before you wear out your thumb catching and cocking the hammer, but dry firing could save some ammo.

- DanT  Phoenix, AZ

[SrWilliams]

DanT that was a great post and very insightful.

Can someone direct me to the products to get in order to do the actual polishing. I am pretty confident in the teardown based on all of the info everyone has shared with me as well as fro what I have read in other posts. I own a drummer. If someone could focus more on the actual polishing process I will greatly appreciate it. By that I mean what should I use (product wise) to do the actual polishing and when will I know if something is sufficiently polished (see the shiny surface of the metal or what?).