How to test the timing of the FPB?

[Underwhere]

When I finish a gun and if it happens to have a firing pin block then I always try and test the timing to ensure the firing pin fully clears the firing pin block when the trigger is depressed.

What methods do you guys use?

I use a Qtip with the fuzz removed. I cock the hammer and depress the pin until it stops. Then I slowly pull on the trigger and hopefully the pin drops just shy of when the hammer does.
However when I do this it's very difficult to tell which one happens first (firing pin or hammer), especially when the hammer is dropping on the Qtip.

I also haven't figured out a great way of testing this on double action.

Any better ways of doing this?

[myczaccount]

I'm interested in this, as well. I seem to be having timing issues with my SP-01 Tac after installing the screws for the RRK (outlined here: http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=96900.0). I am totally perplexed, bc the gun was working totally fine before I installed the Pre and Over travel screws.

[Tyerone]

Shoot a bunch of ammo then perhaps see if there are wear marks on the pieces that you are concerned about?  I guess I never knew to be concerned about that problem; haven't fiddled with my guns to that extent (or just ignorantly in bliss).

[Underwhere]

I'm interested in this, as well. I seem to be having timing issues with my SP-01 Tac after installing the screws for the RRK (outlined here: http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=96900.0). I am totally perplexed, bc the gun was working totally fine before I installed the Pre and Over travel screws.

I'll take a guess at what happened. CGW are the real experts though. Please listen to them.

Your trigger moving rearwards lifts the firing pin block. At a certain height (and trigger position) the block moves out of the way enough to allow the firing pin to pass unobstructed.

There is some differences in tolerances in manufacturing so the block will move out of the way at different points in different guns.

I think you set your screws correctly... But that is designed just to affect travel.

Perhaps on your particular gun the block is no longer allowing the firing pin to pass because your trigger hasn't moved far back enough... Not enough to have the lifter move the firing pin block high enough.

A quick way to confirm :

Remove your firing pin and block. You will see peening or drag marks on the metal from shooting the gun with the timing being off.

You can so visually inspect from the back of the gun. Pull the trigger and you can see the lifter arm pushing the block upwards.

You can also check by doing what I originally posted with a qtip. You should feel resistance initially and then when the trigger lifts the block high enough, the firing pin will drop down another 1mm or so.

If this is the case, you can do a few things:
1. Buy a CGW extended firing pin and while you're in there put in the reduced firing pin block spring too. (and the CGW firing pin retaining pin)

2. Shave down the ledge in the firing pin block until the firing pin passes unobstructed. I've done this before and can give you some pointers if you'd like.

3. Call CGW and order up some additional parts like the race hammer, sear, firing pin etc and hope that that changes the timing back to normal... And as a byproduct you'll have a really nice gun.

[1SOW]

With the trigger relaxed the FP can't be depressed past the  breech face.  If it shoots,  it's releasing as advertised.

[myczaccount]

I'm interested in this, as well. I seem to be having timing issues with my SP-01 Tac after installing the screws for the RRK (outlined here: http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=96900.0). I am totally perplexed, bc the gun was working totally fine before I installed the Pre and Over travel screws.

I'll take a guess at what happened. CGW are the real experts though. Please listen to them.

Your trigger moving rearwards lifts the firing pin block. At a certain height (and trigger position) the block moves out of the way enough to allow the firing pin to pass unobstructed.

There is some differences in tolerances in manufacturing so the block will move out of the way at different points in different guns.

I think you set your screws correctly... But that is designed just to affect travel.

Perhaps on your particular gun the block is no longer allowing the firing pin to pass because your trigger hasn't moved far back enough... Not enough to have the lifter move the firing pin block high enough.

A quick way to confirm :

Remove your firing pin and block. You will see peening or drag marks on the metal from shooting the gun with the timing being off.

You can so visually inspect from the back of the gun. Pull the trigger and you can see the lifter arm pushing the block upwards.

You can also check by doing what I originally posted with a qtip. You should feel resistance initially and then when the trigger lifts the block high enough, the firing pin will drop down another 1mm or so.

If this is the case, you can do a few things:
1. Buy a CGW extended firing pin and while you're in there put in the reduced firing pin block spring too. (and the CGW firing pin retaining pin)

2. Shave down the ledge in the firing pin block until the firing pin passes unobstructed. I've done this before and can give you some pointers if you'd like.

3. Call CGW and order up some additional parts like the race hammer, sear, firing pin etc and hope that that changes the timing back to normal... And as a byproduct you'll have a really nice gun.

Thanks I will take a look. Although I am already running a 13# HS along with the Reduced Power FP spring. I have a RP plunger spring in my CGW shopping cart (along with an extended FP). Like I said in my post, the gun worked fine without the screws installed so I suppose an Ext FP may help my issue. Otherwise I guess I'll just remove the OT screw altogether. It didn't really do much anyway.

[Underwhere]

I'm interested in this, as well. I seem to be having timing issues with my SP-01 Tac after installing the screws for the RRK (outlined here: http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=96900.0). I am totally perplexed, bc the gun was working totally fine before I installed the Pre and Over travel screws.

I'll take a guess at what happened. CGW are the real experts though. Please listen to them.

Your trigger moving rearwards lifts the firing pin block. At a certain height (and trigger position) the block moves out of the way enough to allow the firing pin to pass unobstructed.

There is some differences in tolerances in manufacturing so the block will move out of the way at different points in different guns.

I think you set your screws correctly... But that is designed just to affect travel.

Perhaps on your particular gun the block is no longer allowing the firing pin to pass because your trigger hasn't moved far back enough... Not enough to have the lifter move the firing pin block high enough.

A quick way to confirm :

Remove your firing pin and block. You will see peening or drag marks on the metal from shooting the gun with the timing being off.

You can so visually inspect from the back of the gun. Pull the trigger and you can see the lifter arm pushing the block upwards.

You can also check by doing what I originally posted with a qtip. You should feel resistance initially and then when the trigger lifts the block high enough, the firing pin will drop down another 1mm or so.

If this is the case, you can do a few things:
1. Buy a CGW extended firing pin and while you're in there put in the reduced firing pin block spring too. (and the CGW firing pin retaining pin)

2. Shave down the ledge in the firing pin block until the firing pin passes unobstructed. I've done this before and can give you some pointers if you'd like.

3. Call CGW and order up some additional parts like the race hammer, sear, firing pin etc and hope that that changes the timing back to normal... And as a byproduct you'll have a really nice gun.

Thanks I will take a look. Although I am already running a 13# HS along with the Reduced Power FP spring. I have a RP plunger spring in my CGW shopping cart (along with an extended FP). Like I said in my post, the gun worked fine without the screws installed so I suppose an Ext FP may help my issue. Otherwise I guess I'll just remove the OT screw altogether. It didn't really do much anyway.

I read somewhere that CGW produced the extended firing pin with a bit of extra relief so that it would accommodate different tolerances.

That may be a good option.

As far as an extended firing pin block. You can order one but the same affect can likely be accomplished by light shaving of your current one.

[myczaccount]

I'm interested in this, as well. I seem to be having timing issues with my SP-01 Tac after installing the screws for the RRK (outlined here: http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=96900.0). I am totally perplexed, bc the gun was working totally fine before I installed the Pre and Over travel screws.

I'll take a guess at what happened. CGW are the real experts though. Please listen to them.

Your trigger moving rearwards lifts the firing pin block. At a certain height (and trigger position) the block moves out of the way enough to allow the firing pin to pass unobstructed.

There is some differences in tolerances in manufacturing so the block will move out of the way at different points in different guns.

I think you set your screws correctly... But that is designed just to affect travel.

Perhaps on your particular gun the block is no longer allowing the firing pin to pass because your trigger hasn't moved far back enough... Not enough to have the lifter move the firing pin block high enough.

A quick way to confirm :

Remove your firing pin and block. You will see peening or drag marks on the metal from shooting the gun with the timing being off.

You can so visually inspect from the back of the gun. Pull the trigger and you can see the lifter arm pushing the block upwards.

You can also check by doing what I originally posted with a qtip. You should feel resistance initially and then when the trigger lifts the block high enough, the firing pin will drop down another 1mm or so.

If this is the case, you can do a few things:
1. Buy a CGW extended firing pin and while you're in there put in the reduced firing pin block spring too. (and the CGW firing pin retaining pin)

2. Shave down the ledge in the firing pin block until the firing pin passes unobstructed. I've done this before and can give you some pointers if you'd like.

3. Call CGW and order up some additional parts like the race hammer, sear, firing pin etc and hope that that changes the timing back to normal... And as a byproduct you'll have a really nice gun.

Thanks I will take a look. Although I am already running a 13# HS along with the Reduced Power FP spring. I have a RP plunger spring in my CGW shopping cart (along with an extended FP). Like I said in my post, the gun worked fine without the screws installed so I suppose an Ext FP may help my issue. Otherwise I guess I'll just remove the OT screw altogether. It didn't really do much anyway.

I read somewhere that CGW produced the extended firing pin with a bit of extra relief so that it would accommodate different tolerances.

That may be a good option.

As far as an extended firing pin block. You can order one but the same affect can likely be accomplished by light shaving of your current one.

I need a special FPB if I use an ext FP? I didn't know that. I've never heard of an extended firing pin block.

I'm hoping that if the Ext FP helps the situation, I can at least screw the OT enough to be flush with the trigger so it no longer protrudes

[Underwhere]

I'm interested in this, as well. I seem to be having timing issues with my SP-01 Tac after installing the screws for the RRK (outlined here: http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=96900.0). I am totally perplexed, bc the gun was working totally fine before I installed the Pre and Over travel screws.

I'll take a guess at what happened. CGW are the real experts though. Please listen to them.

Your trigger moving rearwards lifts the firing pin block. At a certain height (and trigger position) the block moves out of the way enough to allow the firing pin to pass unobstructed.

There is some differences in tolerances in manufacturing so the block will move out of the way at different points in different guns.

I think you set your screws correctly... But that is designed just to affect travel.

Perhaps on your particular gun the block is no longer allowing the firing pin to pass because your trigger hasn't moved far back enough... Not enough to have the lifter move the firing pin block high enough.

A quick way to confirm :

Remove your firing pin and block. You will see peening or drag marks on the metal from shooting the gun with the timing being off.

You can so visually inspect from the back of the gun. Pull the trigger and you can see the lifter arm pushing the block upwards.

You can also check by doing what I originally posted with a qtip. You should feel resistance initially and then when the trigger lifts the block high enough, the firing pin will drop down another 1mm or so.

If this is the case, you can do a few things:
1. Buy a CGW extended firing pin and while you're in there put in the reduced firing pin block spring too. (and the CGW firing pin retaining pin)

2. Shave down the ledge in the firing pin block until the firing pin passes unobstructed. I've done this before and can give you some pointers if you'd like.

3. Call CGW and order up some additional parts like the race hammer, sear, firing pin etc and hope that that changes the timing back to normal... And as a byproduct you'll have a really nice gun.

Thanks I will take a look. Although I am already running a 13# HS along with the Reduced Power FP spring. I have a RP plunger spring in my CGW shopping cart (along with an extended FP). Like I said in my post, the gun worked fine without the screws installed so I suppose an Ext FP may help my issue. Otherwise I guess I'll just remove the OT screw altogether. It didn't really do much anyway.

I read somewhere that CGW produced the extended firing pin with a bit of extra relief so that it would accommodate different tolerances.

That may be a good option.

As far as an extended firing pin block. You can order one but the same affect can likely be accomplished by light shaving of your current one.

I need a special FPB if I use an ext FP? I didn't know that. I've never heard of an extended firing pin block.

I'm hoping that if the Ext FP helps the situation, I can at least screw the OT enough to be flush with the trigger so it no longer protrudes

No. You don't need a special firing pin block. Sorry I must have misread. Please ignore that entire line of thinking. I thought you were ordering a new block.


As far as the screw protruding from the trigger. It's supposed to protrude from the back not the front. Can you post a picture?

[Earl Keese]

I'm interested in this, as well. I seem to be having timing issues with my SP-01 Tac after installing the screws for the RRK (outlined here: http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=96900.0). I am totally perplexed, bc the gun was working totally fine before I installed the Pre and Over travel screws.

I'll take a guess at what happened. CGW are the real experts though. Please listen to them.

Your trigger moving rearwards lifts the firing pin block. At a certain height (and trigger position) the block moves out of the way enough to allow the firing pin to pass unobstructed.

There is some differences in tolerances in manufacturing so the block will move out of the way at different points in different guns.

I think you set your screws correctly... But that is designed just to affect travel.

Perhaps on your particular gun the block is no longer allowing the firing pin to pass because your trigger hasn't moved far back enough... Not enough to have the lifter move the firing pin block high enough.

A quick way to confirm :

Remove your firing pin and block. You will see peening or drag marks on the metal from shooting the gun with the timing being off.

You can so visually inspect from the back of the gun. Pull the trigger and you can see the lifter arm pushing the block upwards.

You can also check by doing what I originally posted with a qtip. You should feel resistance initially and then when the trigger lifts the block high enough, the firing pin will drop down another 1mm or so.

If this is the case, you can do a few things:
1. Buy a CGW extended firing pin and while you're in there put in the reduced firing pin block spring too. (and the CGW firing pin retaining pin)

2. Shave down the ledge in the firing pin block until the firing pin passes unobstructed. I've done this before and can give you some pointers if you'd like.

3. Call CGW and order up some additional parts like the race hammer, sear, firing pin etc and hope that that changes the timing back to normal... And as a byproduct you'll have a really nice gun.

Thanks I will take a look. Although I am already running a 13# HS along with the Reduced Power FP spring. I have a RP plunger spring in my CGW shopping cart (along with an extended FP). Like I said in my post, the gun worked fine without the screws installed so I suppose an Ext FP may help my issue. Otherwise I guess I'll just remove the OT screw altogether. It didn't really do much anyway.

Do you also have the Short Reset Kit installed? I didn't see you mention that anywhere.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[myczaccount]

Nope, no SRT installed.

[Earl Keese]

Nope, no SRT installed.

Doesn't it say right on the product page for the RRK that the SRT is required?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[myczaccount]

Nope, no SRT installed.

Doesn't it say right on the product page for the RRK that the SRT is required?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

That might be the RRK-2 you?re thinking of? Regular RRK doesn?t require SRT

[Earl Keese]

Nope, no SRT installed.

Doesn't it say right on the product page for the RRK that the SRT is required?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

That might be the RRK-2 you?re thinking of? Regular RRK doesn?t require SRT

Makes sense, when I did my only de-cocker I used the SRS. It's been a couple years and I forgot there were two different kits.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[M1A4ME]

I make sure the pistol is empty.

I cock the hammer, point the muzzle straight up, put a wood pencil in the barrel, eraser end up and pull the trigger.

A Glock and M&P will just bounce the pencil in the barrel.  An XDM will make it jump just a couple inches out of the barrel.  A CZ (hammer fired models) will make the pencil jump up a foot or more out of the barrel.  A 1911 might bounce the pencil off the ceiling.

If the firing pin/striker is being blocked by the striker/firing pin block all you get is a click and the pencil doesn't jump - because it didn't get smacked by the striker/firing pin. 

I had a problem with my M&P's a few years ago.  When the striker safety was blocking/partially blocking the striker I'd get a mark on the primer, but no bang.  Rechamber that round and squeeze the trigger again and it would usually go off the second time.

It would be hard to test it with the slide off the frame since you might be able to lift the firing pin block up/out of the way but that won't tell you if the lifting arm in the frame is doing it at the right moment to allow the firing pin to move forward to strike the primer.