Question on CGW extended firing pin for P-07 / P-09

[CCWLearner]

Today I installed a CGW short reset kit (among some other parts) in my CZ P-07.  The extended firing pin that is part of the kit, seems to protrude a very small amount from the breech face, when I function check the firing pin block.  When I press the firing pin in without pushing the firing pin block, I can barely see it peeking through the hole, and I can feel it if I put my finger there.

I saw a similar thing some time ago, when watching a video about installing the kit in a P-09.  You can see it in this video, around 21:21, although I would say his firing pin looks like it protrudes further than mine does:

https://youtu.be/Du2eUL7FC8k?t=21m21s

One guy asks about it in the video comments, which prompted me to look at it more closely.

So I am wondering if this is normal or should I be concerned?

Edit:

Also note that the firing pin does not protrude when the hammer is resting on it, only when pushed in manually.  I am using the CGW 15 lb hammer spring, and reduced FPB spring, in addition to the parts in the SRK.  I also polished the FPB plunger quite a bit with a felt wheel and green jewelers rouge.  I have an unpolished spare plunger I could swap out for troubleshooting if needed.  FPB and firing pin otherwise appear to be working well.  Pencil test launches a #2 pencil a few feet away.  I am planning to live fire the gun next week, but first wanted to address this concern, if the gun will be carry and drop safe.  I have found a thread on another forum that seems to indicate that this is normal for the CGW extended firing pin in a P-09, but I'm not sure if that means normal for competition or safe to carry.

[schmeky]

We have gone to significant lengths to produce a firing pin as long as we can, but still be safe.  The protrusion of the firing pin can vary from CZ to CZ, based on how deep the firing pin channel is cut.

It takes about .015" of primer indention for ignition to even begin, some require .020".  The most protrusion we have measured is around .005". 

Also keep in mind the inertial qualities of the system are still maintained, so even with the hammer resting on the firing pin, there is still an inertial gap between the primer and the firing pin. 

Only when you manually push fully on the firing pin will the firing pin's interial "slack" be taken up, which is limited by the FP block which keeps the weapon safe.

[CCWLearner]

Thank you for the explanation.  I'm not going to worry about it if it's an aspect of the design that you have accounted for, and my protrusion sounds within normal range.

The protrusion from my P-07's breech face is hardly visible, and mainly detectable by feel, with a fingertip or a fingernail, when the firing pin is shoved completely in with a tool.  I'm not sure how I would go about trying to measure it at the breech face with my caliper, but it feels well below the depth of dents I have seen in the primers of light strikes from other pistols in the past, and is probably in that <.01" range.

I also have a basic understanding of the passive inertia-based drop safety, having familiarized myself with it being the only drop safety present in some DAO pocket pistols which have no active firing block.  This is relying on the FP spring to prevent the forward momentum of the FP from moving it forward, in the event of dropping it on the muzzle or similar.

I did take it to the range earlier, and had a 99% successful test after the latest modifications.  I fired in order:

50 x Fiocchi FMJ 115 gr
50 x Sellier and Bellot FMJ 115 gr
15 x Federal HST 147 gr
15 x Hornady Critical Defense 115 gr
50 x American Eagle jacketed flat point 147 gr

Almost everything was flawless, but I did have one light strike on #46 out of 50 in the box of Fiocchi, that fired on the second strike.  This is my first light strike in either of my P-07's and a few thousand rounds, at least 2K through this pistol.  The primer was dented pretty good by the first strike, but not good enough apparently.  I really expected the S&B to fail afterward, having given me light strikes in other pistols in the past, but it worked for 100%.

I think I'm going to put the 18 lb hammer spring back in it and go back to the range with three more boxes of that same lot of Fiocchi I have, to see if there are any additional failures.

Thanks again for the information on the firing pin.

[Tok36]

Interesting stuff.

[M1A4ME]

I've put the CGW extended firing pins in three or four CZ75 Compacts.  No issues with the ones I've installed.

I did choose not to leave one of the CGW extended firing pins installed in a CZ75 Compact a few months back.  I did install it, but chose to go back to the factory firing pin.  I noticed, when I pushed in on the back of the firing pin it seemed to protrude from the breech face way farther than the previous installs even with the firing pin block stopping it from full forward movement as it was designed to do.  No measurements, no pictures, just me eyes and my feeling that that particular CZ Compact did not need an extended firing pin with the lighter hammer spring.  And it has been 100% with CCI, Federal and Tula small pistol primers (never tried the small rifle primers, but I've used them on other 9MM reloads).

Guns are machines, made on other machines (that wear and produce variable products) by people who are not perfect either.  The vary, one to the other, like anything else.