Author Topic: Ultrasound cleaning CZ's, should remove firing pin?  (Read 686 times)

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Offline beanz2

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Ultrasound cleaning CZ's, should remove firing pin?
« on: December 24, 2018, 01:26:11 PM »
Hey all,

Gave myself an early Christmas present, a Hornady ultrasound cleaner.  Wow, I love how it cleans guns.  We just came back from Front Sight and shot about 2500 rounds between me and my wife and our guns were filthy.  Hers is an SP-01 Shadow and mine is an S2.  I also had another Shadow that hadn't been cleaned since the last class in the safe that I cleaned at the same time.

I used a 5:1 water to Simple Green mix and dipped the field stripped guns sans grips (aluminum in two, rubber the other) and they came out clean!  I'm very happy with the result.

Questions, though.  I hesitated on doing an SP-01 (with FPB) the same way since removing the firing pin is a bit more hassle.   Would it a bad idea not to remove the FP and just blast it with compressed air?  After cleaning the Shadows, I removed the firing pins and cleaned the channels.  Maybe I should have removed them first before dipping them in the ultrasound cleaner? 

Afterwards, I sprayed the guns all over with WD40 just to chase out whatever moisture left that the compressed air did not blow away.  Then blast it out with more compressed air, then brushed the guns with my favorite lube, M-Pro7, but I think there may be WD40 in the FP channel still.  Does WD40 in the nooks and crannies evaporate after a while?


Offline daved20319

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Re: Ultrasound cleaning CZ's, should remove firing pin?
« Reply #1 on: December 24, 2018, 04:12:03 PM »
In my experience, WD-40 has a nasty tendency to turn into varnish, especially in a place with no air flow.  It's fine as a solvent and water displacer, but I like to follow up with either a blast of non-chlorinated brake cleaner, or if I can wipe/dip it, denatured alcohol, followed by a blast of compressed air.  I just tore down my PCR and 97 BD, when reinstalling the firing pins, I just got some moly grease on my fingers and burnished it in, not even really enough to make it greasy, the moly will actually bond to the steel at a molecular level and last a long time, the grease is just a carrier.  Later.

Dave