What's the best/smoothest 9mm taper crimp die?

[Scarlett Pistol]

Explanation:
When I upgraded to a Dillon 650 I started getting flecks of brass on all my reloads. They were coming from the seating/crimp die. I ordered a Lee FCD so I could seat and crimp in separate stations. This didn't really help much. Upon the suggestion from a wise sage reloader I looked at the contact surface of the Lee FCD and it had really rough machine marks. This was a contributor to the problem so I set about polishing them down. As polishing progressed it was evident that there were some deeper marks/gouges that would require more material removal than I was comfortable with.

This has happened with plated, coated, and jacketed rounds. Across all types of brands of cases.

So I got it finished up (excluding that deeper gouges) and the brass material getting shaved off decreased but did not go away. Not only is it irritating but I worry it is reducing the life of my brass by shaving off the edges like this. I am finally done with this die and ready to try another. After this bad experience I would like a high quality crimp die. One that isn't a total wreck from the factory that is not salvage even with polishing work.

Request:
What are the best and smoothest 9mm taper crimp dies ya'll have tried? It seems like Dillon, Redding, and RCBS are up there in quality. What have everyone's experiences been and what would you recommend?

[Bossgobbler]

I use the crimp die the came with my Dillon 1050, but I seat and crimp in different stages. Have loaded over 100,000 rounds with the same dies.

[Scarlett Pistol]

I use the crimp die the came with my Dillon 1050, but I seat and crimp in different stages. Have loaded over 100,000 rounds with the same dies.

A big +1 to the longevity to the Dillon crimp die then... haha. Thank you!

[IDescribe]

I ordered a Lee FCD ...

[Scarlett Pistol]

I ordered a Lee FCD ...

I know... I know... I made a mistake by making a purchase without final consultation of the advisory board on here.

[Wobbly]

Using the Dillon now and I'm comfortable with it. It gives very good results. Adjust it up/down to dial in the desired TC diameter.

I have used the Lee Taper Crimp Die, which contacts solely on the very end of the case. In fact it leaves just a kiss ring on the case mouth about 0.005" wide. You can see it very clearly in this photo...



Previously I used a Redding in 40 cal and it was really smooth operating. Like the others it was a solid, one-piece die, but the Redding slid down over the case wall, ironing out much of the case like the FCD. Being solid, its only adjustment was up/down. But instead of dialing in the amount of crimp, the adjustment was only dialing in how much of the case wall you wanted smoothed over. So the crimp diameter seemed to be fixed within the die.

[Earl Keese]

Is there a reason to move on from the Lee taper crimp die? It's been working well for me since I saw it recommended here.

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[Scarlett Pistol]

Is there a reason to move on from the Lee taper crimp die? It's been working well for me since I saw it recommended here.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

The primary reason for me is that the one I got had terrible machining marks. Even after polishing there are still some deep marks that would require too much material removal. My die is shaving brass off the edge of my cases - making a mess and causing unnecessary wear on my brass. If you've got one that is working well I don't think you would need to move on to another.


Unless you're noticing any issues from how it functions based on what Wobbly is pointing out.

I have used the Lee Taper Crimp Die, which contacts solely on the very end of the case. In fact it leaves just a kiss ring on the case mouth about 0.005" wide. You can see it very clearly in this photo...

[Earl Keese]

Is there a reason to move on from the Lee taper crimp die? It's been working well for me since I saw it recommended here.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

The primary reason for me is that the one I got had terrible machining marks. Even after polishing there are still some deep marks that would require too much material removal. My die is shaving brass off the edge of my cases - making a mess and causing unnecessary wear on my brass. If you've got one that is working well I don't think you would need to move on to another.


Unless you're noticing any issues from how it functions based on what Wobbly is pointing out.

I have used the Lee Taper Crimp Die, which contacts solely on the very end of the case. In fact it leaves just a kiss ring on the case mouth about 0.005" wide. You can see it very clearly in this photo...

I have the taper crimp die, not the FCD. I was just wondering why Mr. Wobbly went to the Dillon die.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Scarlett Pistol]

Is there a reason to move on from the Lee taper crimp die? It's been working well for me since I saw it recommended here.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

The primary reason for me is that the one I got had terrible machining marks. Even after polishing there are still some deep marks that would require too much material removal. My die is shaving brass off the edge of my cases - making a mess and causing unnecessary wear on my brass. If you've got one that is working well I don't think you would need to move on to another.


Unless you're noticing any issues from how it functions based on what Wobbly is pointing out.

I have used the Lee Taper Crimp Die, which contacts solely on the very end of the case. In fact it leaves just a kiss ring on the case mouth about 0.005" wide. You can see it very clearly in this photo...

I have the taper crimp die, not the FCD. I was just wondering why Mr. Wobbly went to the Dillon die.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

My bad Earl, in my haste I wasn't thorough in reading what you said...

[Wobbly]

Is there a reason to move on from the Lee taper crimp die? It's been working well for me since I saw it recommended here.

I have the [Lee] Taper Crimp Die, not the FCD. I was just wondering why Mr. Wobbly went to the Dillon die.

I moved on for the simple reason that after retirement I wanted to finish out the collection of Dillon dies. In the Dillon press, the Dillon Sizing/Decapping die does extremely well, and better than many others. That was really the 'driving' point of the purchase, but the Dillon TC die tagged along and that die simply started getting used.

I still own several Lee TC dies, and I'm still a fan. If the Dillon TC dies fail, the the Lee will go right back into service. I'm not a total Lee fan boy, but I do recognize that Lee dies offer extremely good value.

So maybe that helps explain.

[Earl Keese]

Is there a reason to move on from the Lee taper crimp die? It's been working well for me since I saw it recommended here.

I have the [Lee] Taper Crimp Die, not the FCD. I was just wondering why Mr. Wobbly went to the Dillon die.

I moved on for the simple reason that after retirement I wanted to finish out the collection of Dillon dies. In the Dillon press, the Dillon Sizing/Decapping die does extremely well, and better than many others. That was really the 'driving' point of the purchase, but the Dillon TC die tagged along and that die simply started getting used.

I still own several Lee TC dies, and I'm still a fan. If the Dillon TC dies fail, the the Lee will go right back into service. I'm not a total Lee fan boy, but I do recognize that Lee dies offer extremely good value.

So maybe that helps explain.

Thank you sir.

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[IDescribe]

The sign at the "Returns" line at the Redding Store:  "Zero Customers Served"

[M1A4ME]

I just got my RCBS taper crimp die for the .300 BO. 

When I started loading lead/plated bullets I found out the Redding seating die was just a bullet seating die, no ability to get rid of that slight case mouth bell I'd put on them for the soft flat based bullets.

I was bored, so I started reading the instructions.  I ran across a couple/three things that made me curious. 

One was the instructions say the RCBS taper crimp die is beneficial for crimping if the cases are not of uniform length.  Then, a sentence or so down the instructions recommend you have cases of uniform length for more consistency in crimping....

The instructions also mentioned the taper crimp die is really good for bullets with a canelure so you can crimp the case mouth into the canelure.

If I get a chance in the next few days I might try to load some .300 BO and see how well, or not, it works.  All mine are trimmed and I have no intentions of using bullets with canelures, I just need to get rid of the bell at the case mouth.

If it works well enough I might order one for the .357 SIG (since I had an issue awhile back while loading up the left over brass - varying case length resulting in some bulging of the shoulder when the round went through the crimping die.

[toteone]

Just curious as to what causes the circular marks around the mid section of this case.  When I pick up range brass for my 9mm loads I see that "chattermark" and throw the case in recycle bin, not knowing what causes it.

You can see it very clearly in this photo...