P10c Trigger oddness

[jelmerolson]

Hello all,

I recently took delivery of a late 2018 p10c. This is my 2nd p10c so I am somewhat familiar with them. 

This new gun was meant to be one to tinker with and perhaps use in some local competition if it could be refined enough.

So I function check what I can at the store and take it home. I generally like to do a few minutes of dry fire before cleaning and lubing and then shooting. I start dry fire and this thing is rough. Audible and tactile grit on take up and an 2-stage feel almost. Break is okay but stiff in my opinion. Reset is good and follow up pull is alright.

I know these poly, striker fired deals take a little time to break in, but my first p10 rivaled my well loved Canik TP9SF's trigger out of the gate and surpassed it after 300 rounds or so. This new one, I don't know. It's REALLY really rough. I did more dry fire today and it maybe smoothed out some but I don't want to shoot a thousand rounds through this thing and then start tuning on it if it's a lost cause. I sent an email to the CZ warranty department as well, but I wanted to check in and see if any of you had a similar scenario.

Thanks!

[StuckonGlocks21]

Maybe it just needs to be detail stripped and cleaned and lubricated. Perhaps polish a few rough spots while it?s apart.

[jelmerolson]

That is likely going to be the project for tomorrow afternoon if this rain keeps up! Honestly kinda hate detail stripping the p10 vs a g19 but it's not the end of the world!

[Practical Shooter]

Mine was also pretty gritty on take up, but very smooth then on.
The take up is when the trigger bar moves the firing pin plug.
So you have 2 available options to correct that situation.
The first one is to polish all contact points.
The second (my personal choice) is to remove the firing pin block mechanisms.
Doing so makes the trigger take up extremely smooth (like pulling on air), BUT will probably void the warranty (if you are into those things), have a possible accidental discharge if the gun is dropped (but firing pin blocks are a new thing. Many guns, until recently never had one), and after removing the block mechanisms, you might not be able to put it back, it is pretty tricky.
As I said, I chose option 2, but my risk threshold is very high.

[jelmerolson]

I put 150 rounds through it this afternoon and it did clean up some, most notably at the wall and break. It is now a lot closer to my original p10. I am going to put another 150-200 through it tomorrow and then see about giving it a full clean and polish and get it back together and see where we are. I'd like to get this HBI trigger shoe and striker spring installed when it's all apart but I won't do any of that until this trigger bar is smoother.

[Vex001]

I strongly recommend the CGW tool steel striker as well. Really helped clean up mine.

https://cajungunworks.com/product/p10c-striker/


[Mods added link]

[lefty556]

I'll second the Cajun striker.  It made a noticeable difference in my P10Cs and P10F.  It was money well spent.

[Rocket1970]

Recently, I took my P10C to a gunsmith hoping he could smooth out my P10C trigger take up . . . money wasted!  Gun came back just as gritty as before.  So, I decided I would clean and lube it and then do some trigger take up exercises in an effort to gain improvement. After the cleaning and lubing the trigger was even worse!  So, I began  the trigger take up exercises.  At first, I didn’t think the trigger would ever improve.  Even after about 500 take-ups, not much change. But, after over 3,000 take-up exercises the trigger take up is about 75% improved .. . getting there!  As soon as the temp gets above freezing this week, I’m heading to the range.  This has taken a lot of effort, but once the trigger take up resolves, this is really a good gun!

[Joe L]

The second (my personal choice) is to remove the firing pin block mechanisms.
Doing so makes the trigger take up extremely smooth (like pulling on air), BUT will probably void the warranty (if you are into those things), have a possible accidental discharge if the gun is dropped (but firing pin blocks are a new thing. Many guns, until recently never had one), and after removing the block mechanisms, you might not be able to put it back, it is pretty tricky.
As I said, I chose option 2, but my risk threshold is very high.

I can't let this go, even though the post quoted above is five years old.  A striker pistol is not like a hammer gun.

There are now several aftermarket strikers available, some of which might be too aggressive for even range use without the striker safety left in place.  All one has to do to experience this is to release the slide lock and have the the slide slam closed normally and have the gun go off unexpectedly.  Happened to me at the range with other people around, when shooting a modified P-10S several years ago.  Fortunately, the gun was aimed down range.  But I knew what happened--I had removed the striker safety mechanism while testing an aftermarket aluminum striker holder assembly and a modified striker slid off the trigger bar on impact of the slide.  Scared me pretty bad.  I unloaded the gun, cased it up and went home.

When I got home, I put the striker safety mechanism and CZ striker holder back in the pistol, along with a reliable service pistol CGW aftermarket striker, and haven't looked back since.  No more ADs. 

My advice--lightly polish the contact points between the striker safety mechanism and the trigger bar, but leave it in place, and adapt to the trigger pull.  Do not remove the striker safety.  This is even more important if one uses any aftermarket striker, even those designed for duty rather than competition in my opinion.  But an aggressive aftermarket striker, or worse, a "hobbyist modified" striker without a striker safety is simply too dangerous for any use.   

Rant over.

Joe L 

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

I can't let this go, even though the post quoted above is five years old.  A striker pistol is not like a hammer gun.

There are now several aftermarket strikers available, some of which might be too aggressive for even range use without the striker safety left in place.  All one has to do to experience this is to release the slide lock and have the the slide slam closed normally and have the gun go off unexpectedly.  Happened to me at the range with other people around, when shooting a modified P-10S several years ago.  Fortunately, the gun was aimed down range.  But I knew what happened--I had removed the striker safety mechanism while testing an aftermarket aluminum striker holder assembly and a modified striker slid off the trigger bar on impact of the slide.  Scared me pretty bad.  I unloaded the gun, cased it up and went home.

When I got home, I put the striker safety mechanism and CZ striker holder back in the pistol, along with a reliable service pistol CGW aftermarket striker, and haven't looked back since.  No more ADs. 

My advice--lightly polish the contact points between the striker safety mechanism and the trigger bar, but leave it in place, and adapt to the trigger pull.  Do not remove the striker safety.  This is even more important if one uses any aftermarket striker, even those designed for duty rather than competition in my opinion.  But an aggressive aftermarket striker, or worse, a "hobbyist modified" striker without a striker safety is simply too dangerous for any use.   

This is exactly correct. Hammer fired guns with or without firing pin blocks have safety or half cock notches to keep the hammer from slamming home when charging the weapon. The firing pin return spring holds the firing pin back as well so it doesn't slam forward. This is not the case with most striker fired pistols and without the striker safety in place the striker can just fly forward when charging the gun since there's nothing to block it's travel and no spring tension to hold it back.
I also don't understand the notion that many guns didn't have firing pin blocks till recently? They have been around for decades. Series 80 1911's, S&W autos all had them, Beretta 92's and many many more.