light strikes FTF- odyssey of a kadet

[Andres B]

 So, being gobsmacked by dramatic effect of recoil springs, measured both, old and new spring. Difference on lenght is 6mm, wire thickness being 0,9mm both. Didn't count the coils tho.
 Dunno bout your imperial weird inches and feet.

[joerchi69]

Differences in 3 fresh recoil springs, ruler in mm centimeter


Also have a new one with 113 mm.

Testing cut down recoil spring lenth for CCI SV


Actually i use the original length recoil spring with "100" mm with the CCI SV ammo,
90mm was too short, and with 93mm i am still not sure if something in the gun gets forged or dammaged.
To have a better ejection trajectory i could test the shorter springs. But at the moment i think the angle of my ejector needs to be filed different. I have to check this with empty cases as it was suggested. And to think into.

[joerchi69]

Tested the TS hammer with a 16lb hammer spring, wich is the lowest lb i have, and my standard ammo CCI SV.
Prooven FP4 and the shortened original FP spring installed. Plus the original length recoil spring.
On the first 5 shots loaded in the magazin i got 3 stove pipes, some light strikes and failiures to feed. Sometimes troubles just come within the first few shots and disappear.
Maybe because of the diss-and reassembly and cleaning. So i went on. The next 250 something shots it worked fine. Maybe the brandnew spring was not completely seated on the ground of the spring housing. In the last box i had 2 light strikes. Between round 250 and 300. Maybe a little bit early but not bad considering the shortened but strong original FP spring. Built it back to the 17 lb hs. Somehow i like the effectiveness of 17 

[joerchi69]

No visual differences to see for me. Measurements of imprint depht would be more meaningful..
First and second row 17lb hs
third and fourth row 16lb hs

samo shot with flash


Measurements of imprint depht: Would have to downsize the tip of the caliper to get into the dent..
Or add a needle..
 

[Metal Wonder Nine Guy]

And here was I about to ask if the 16 lb hammer spring had some reliable ignition. Thanks for the pics.

[joerchi69]

And here was I about to ask if the 16 lb hammer spring had some reliable ignition. Thanks for the pics.

I`d would say - depends on the gun,the mods done to, the ammo, ...
I´ve read on the pages from some Kadets running with the 13 lb hs reliable.
I´ve read that the rule is 17 lb minimum, for my Kadet i would confirm that for the moment.

[Joe L]

joerchi69--After cleaning the barrel and chamber, the chamber is dry and it will drag some because it is a tight chamber compared to US pistols.  I usually add a drop of oil to the top round brass case in the first magazine to get a little lubrication in the chamber after cleaning when I get to the range.  If you don't do that, it takes a while for some of the wax or whatever is on the bullets to build up in the chamber so that the chamber drag is minimized.  You could also finish off the cleaning session with a q-tip and a drop of oil and just apply it to the chamber itself before heading to the range. 
Joe

[joerchi69]

Little intro "how i handle de- and installing the firing pin"

I put the slide on the table upside down, i take a deep breath and imagine the universe in perfect balance

Left palm is pressing slide down to the table (righty) while left thumb and left pointer finger reach the firing pin stop.

The special firing pin disassembly and Kadet tuning tool (ball pen) or its plastic guide rod presses the FP as straight as possible into the FPstop and lifts him slowly up to get secured by the two fingers feeling the movement up. Until the spring loaded FP pops out and gets stopped with intend by the right hands fingers holding the tool too. For the first "shots" i would recomend a barrier.  The use of a ball pen was more easy in the beginning than the guide rod. Until i was able to push in the firing pin straight without slipping of the back end of the FP when pushing him in. Especially when reinstalling 

For installing i put in the spring and insert the FP with the flat end up.
Left palm pressure is finding a place on the slide to alow the thumb-pointer- tweezers to hold the FPstop at it`s channel.

From the right side i press the FP as far in as i can place the FPstop on the biggest diameter of the FP or already on the flatted end. While holding the FP upright and pressing him down on the FP - i push the FP with the tool against the springforce linear completely down in its channel. Until the stop and pin clicking into the contemplated position. With a little routine it can be done unobserving randomly.
If you can do this on the first try - you are my hero. Better have a barrier..


Pics mixed tools but in right order, incomplete, but you get it

Dissassembly


Finger tweeze the FPstop as you press in FP and lift up FPstop with the tool -
 be aware of sudden spring supported release of the FP 






assembly- imagine your fingers beeing part in the process

against the springforce linear


Place FPstop on the biggest diameter of the FP or already on the flatted end


press the FP in to place the FPstop on the biggest diameter of the FP


finger tweezers to hold the FPstop at it`s channel


push FP completely down its channel


stop and pin clicking


No oil or liqid fluna in the FP channel  Wiped and Q-tiped it off before.

[joerchi69]

joerchi69--After cleaning the barrel and chamber, the chamber is dry and it will drag some because it is a tight chamber compared to US pistols.  I usually add a drop of oil to the top round brass case in the first magazine to get a little lubrication in the chamber after cleaning when I get to the range.  If you don't do that, it takes a while for some of the wax or whatever is on the bullets to build up in the chamber so that the chamber drag is minimized.  You could also finish off the cleaning session with a q-tip and a drop of oil and just apply it to the chamber itself before heading to the range. 
Joe

Hello Joe,
thanks a lot - i will give that a try, that could have been the troubles with the first 5 rds. On the other hand i clean my complete gun only with Fluna dry lubrication. Inclouding the barrel/chamber/ramp. So there is or should be reduced chamber drag also on the first rounds. The next time i hav probs in the beginning i will add a little Fluna as advised to see.
Greetings

[Metal Wonder Nine Guy]

I`d would say - depends on the gun,the mods done to, the ammo, ...
I´ve read on the pages from some Kadets running with the 13 lb hs reliable.
I´ve read that the rule is 17 lb minimum, for my Kadet i would confirm that for the moment.

17 lbs minimum is what I heard is the minimum for a kadet 75.

Strange that some people can get the 13 pound hammer spring to run.... but I have to wonder if those people are running an extended firing pin and extra power firing pin spring.

[joerchi69]

I`d would say - depends on the gun,the mods done to, the ammo, ...
I´ve read on the pages from some Kadets running with the 13 lb hs reliable.
I´ve read that the rule is 17 lb minimum, for my Kadet i would confirm that for the moment.

17 lbs minimum is what I heard is the minimum for a kadet 75.

Strange that some people can get the 13 pound hammer spring to run.... but I have to wonder if those people are running an extended firing pin and extra power firing pin spring.

I´ve read of extended FP`s. I´ve read about shortened shoulders of the biggest dieameter of the FP to give it more travel (in both directions). But not too much - hitting the chamber when having a malfeed or dry fire is to avoid.
I´ve read about FP-tip modifing and copied that to my pins - can help definitely.

I assume you ment a less power firing pin spring. Wich i am still experimenting with. Shortened original. Or springs with a thinner wire. Some ball pen springs fit into the FP channel but sometimes they did not hold the FPstop in my conversion kit, pulling it a little bit longer helped for a certain time. Present wire thickness i try is not under 0,3 mm = 0,011 inch ( wear safety goggles). Better 0,32mm=0,0125inch up to 0,4mm=0,016inch.
If interested there are more threads to find.

[joerchi69]

Inserted a new firing pin spring light today for shooting. It held the FPstop in place. Will see if it works for a longer time. No light strikes with 250 CCI SV.
Favorised 17 lb hammer spring. FP4 and original length recoil spring. One stove pipe within box three. May be I will work on the ejection some time. In fall.


                          wire gauge                       outer dia                        length

Original                 0,5mm/ 0,0195inch           3,88mm/ 0,1525inch          33mm/ 1,300inch   

Orig. shorted                "                                       "                          24mm/ 0,950inch

ball pen                0,35mm/ 0,014inch            4,15mm/ 0,1635inch          27mm/ 1,070inch                           

today´s new         0,32mm/ 0,0125inch           3,48mm/ 0,137inch           29mm/ 1,150inch

other new             0,30mm/ 0,012inch            3,95mm/ 0,155inch           37mm/ 1,450inch 

[joerchi69]

Three light strikes today - but with a 13lb hammer spring set in and on 450 shots without cleaning in between. Not bad.
With a little brushing after 250 shots or clean ammo i would expect it running without failiure.

Even i had light strikes with the 16lb hs i couldn`t resist to follow the idea of Andres to test the 13lb.
FPspring light from last time, July 30,( 0,32mm/ 0,0125inch, 3,48mm/ 0,137inch, 29mm/ 1,150inch). FP4. Also i now have installed a loctited hex set pretravel adjusting screw wich i can employ from inside of the slide. It is very relaxing for my trigger finger and shooting hand to get alwas a good position. And i have a better chance to find the appropriate holds on the grip two and one-handed.
With installing the TS trigger i polished some areas like trigger bar and where it is sliding, where the trigger bar springs glide,etc. That, and the procedure of reinstalling that spring maybe, reduced the trigger pull from short over to short under 1 kilo/ 2,20462 lbs, wich is the limit. Trying to lift and shim the trigger spring with a tooth pic segment was not enough to get over 1000g pull wight. So i have to install back the regular trigger spring, to not be disqualified before a match.
With the 13 lb main spring the recoil appeared to be a little bit stronger. 9 boxes of 50 CCI SV emptyed. Within the first 5 shots the one and only stove pipe. On the first box of fifty the ejection of the cases looked short. With the other packages better and mostly far. The next to last round on box six, no. 298 was the first light strike. Dirt supposedly. On the next 2 boxes two more. Box 9 fine.

First row: dirt, wax and residue, as sticking here on the ejected rimfire case, supposedly caused some light strikes trying the 13lb hammer spring
second row: dents no light strikes



two hammersprings/ mainsprings
17lb wolff CZ 75, wire 1,1mm/ 0,0445inch, lenth 63,5mm/ 2,5inch, 29 windings
13lb Hobdell SP-01, wire average "1,07mm/ 0,04inch", length 69mm/ 2,7165inch, 29 windings

[joerchi69]

Trigger springs
I realised having not istalled a weaker spring, so i will try a new original wire dimension spring to get over the given trigger pull weight limit of 1000g/1Kilo/ 2,20462 lbs. If it is not working i have to pre bend it a little.

first row original springs 

[Andres B]

You can also try Tanfoglio sear spring, it is little stiffer than CZ one.