Optic Milling Question

[lagg300]

I got my CZ P-10C milled for a Holosun 507C.

Are optic milling suppose to be this loose? There's enough gap between the optic and slide that I can move it back and forth. I shot it and the screws they provided backed out only after around 20 rounds even after I blue loctited it.

[CZ173]

How long did you wait after applying loctite?

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[Yankchef]

Sounds like you installed it using the wrong screws. My 407c came with 2 different depth of screw. I'd use the other ones

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[lagg300]

How long did you wait to shoot it after applying the loctite?

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Waited a whole week because I didn?t have ammo at the time.

[CZ173]

It sounds like someone did a horrible job or gave you the wrong hardware

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[Wobbly]

1) LocTite needs to be absolutely free of all grease and oil in order to work (setup). If you use silicone lubes or wipes, that can be a bear to remove. Spray carb cleaner or use lacquer thinner on a swap for both the Male and Female fasteners is required. Lots of compressed air is suggested.

2) LocTite also needs the presence of metal ions to activate. So it won't work if there's any paint on the female thread, or you're trying to use black coated screws. Obviously, nylon and other non-metal fasteners are out.

3) There is a blue thread locker from China available at cheaper hardware stores that doesn't work worth a toot. LocTite owns Permatex. It's worth your effort to get the REAL thing. So auto stores might have it labeled as Permatex, while commercial suppliers call it LocTite.

Hope this helps.

[eastman]

and don't forget to shake your blue loctite before applying (it will separate)

[lagg300]

1) LocTite needs to be absolutely free of all grease and oil in order to work (setup). If you use silicone lubes or wipes, that can be a bear to remove. Spray carb cleaner or use lacquer thinner on a swap for both the Male and Female fasteners is required. Lots of compressed air is suggested.

2) LocTite also needs the presence of metal ions to activate. So it won't work if there's any paint on the female thread, or you're trying to use black coated screws. Obviously, nylon and other non-metal fasteners are out.

3) There is a blue thread locker from China available at cheaper hardware stores that doesn't work worth a toot. LocTite owns Permatex. It's worth your effort to get the REAL thing. So auto stores might have it labeled as Permatex, while commercial suppliers call it LocTite.

Hope this helps.

I used brake cleaner to clean the threads so I hope that works? And this is the LocTite 242 blue from Home Depot, I'm pretty sure its the real thing.

Also another question; Is it normal to be able to move the optic so freely without any screws mounted? I had the impression that optic millings had to be a pretty tight fit. The one I have is far from it.

[Earl Keese]

Depends on who milled it. I have a P10C(RMR) milled by Jager Werks, and a 75(Venom)milled by Primary Machine. Both are tightly fitted.

[joedirt199]

Yup sight should fit snuggly to the slide even without the screws.

[DOC 1500]

 I have a Vortex Viper on my P09, milled by Primary Machine. You can't fit a hair between the optic on the slide.

https://primarymachine.com/

 The place that did your milling did they have your optic in hand when milling ?? Some machine shops only use a universal generic program for Milling. What's the name of the Machine Shop?


[Mods corrected the vendor name, Added link]

[Yankchef]

I would like to add that you really shouldn't need loctite as long as you're using high quality screws of the correct length and can torque to proper spec. I use a screwdriver that I can set the foot pounds to, set it to 15# and don't use loctite when I mount optics, if you insist on using thread locker than go with purple.

I don't know when the whole loctite is super necessary thing became a thing but as to my experience with it I've got over 25k rounds experience with different pistols and optic combos. My vortex viper mounted on a ppq was installed with purple loctite and went over 7k, never lost zero and I used the optic to work the slide I don't know how many times and the last time I shot it before I removed it was hitting 8 in steel at 100 yards no problem

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[StuckonGlocks21]

IF the optic ?dovetail? is milled correctly, the screws are only needed to hold it down into the milled area. Mine fits very tight. So snug that it holds zero if I have to remove the optic for any reason. The screws alone are not designed to hold the optic in place. Typically the machinist will mill lugs or studs or perhaps they are called recoil posts into the slide. Some I?ve seen mill a post where the screws go. Some mill the dovetail tight to fit the individual optic. Most optics have holes cast into them (possibly machined) that fit into a mount or properly milled slide. This keeps the recoiling slide from loosening or shearing the screws.

The first picture shows recoil studs milled in place. The slot that the optic fits in is also very tight.



This shows recoil lugs milled where the screw holes are.
There are other ways to mill an optic dovetail that guards against recoil. Each of the awesome CZ vendors on this forum has their way of preventing the optic from coming loose. It should fit tight to prevent loosening.

[Yankchef]

The other potential is if the holes were not drilled the same depth. I had this issue with my p09, the company that did the work was very gracious and fixed it for free. But try taking your optic off, and thread in the screws to see if that is the issue. This is what it looked like when mine was screwed up



[Mods resized photo]

[DOC 1500]

Lagg300,  who did the Milling on your slide so we all know know where not to go?
To have a gap that big that you're optic is moving around,  that's just wrong.
Please tell us who it is.