Mine did the same thing when I installed my CGW Pro Kit. Normally, the trigger bar should ride the bottom of the FP block lifter on the return stroke until it's moved back far enough to clear it and "snap" up. As you pull the trigger, the right-rear side of the trigger bar pushes the FP block up, then the left-rear side of the trigger bar contacts the front of the sear leg. Since the FP lifter and sear leg are on opposite sides of the sear cage, I made sure my trigger bar wasn't tilted and that the trigger bar lifter spring legs were riding evenly in the grooves. On mine, the leg of the sear was too long (or the bottom surface of the Short Reset FP lifter was too short, or the trigger bar rear surfaces were uneven, etc), so the trigger would return a tiny bit forward, then I'd hear a faint click as it snapped off the sear leg and hit the bottom of the FP stop lever. I could then pull the trigger and drop the hammer, but the FP block was still blocking the pin. I hit the bottom of the sear leg with a few strokes of a stone, then 1200# wet sandpaper, and reassembled testing the trigger. It took about three rounds of stone, sand, & test before the trigger would reset on only the FP lifter. While I was at it, I stone/sand/polished every bearing surface to give a glassy smooth pull and reset.
Here's a terrible illustration of what I'm talking about.
