Author Topic: Testing H Buffer with my lower build  (Read 306 times)

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Offline Rcher

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Testing H Buffer with my lower build
« on: November 09, 2019, 01:15:02 AM »
Tried to make video today checking how brass is ejected with H Buffer (midlength 16" upper, 5.56mm).
In the middle of the session I forgot that I'm making video and moved brass catching net That was stupid. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foyxNtYwm9I?

And here's I'm plinking with 22lr upper and the same lower:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMEkeZHXaTA?


Offline M1A4ME

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Re: Testing H Buffer with my lower build
« Reply #1 on: November 09, 2019, 08:00:02 AM »
How do you "see" the ejection pattern with a net that stops the empties on their way to their resting place?

Do you feel a difference in recoil with the H2 vs. a standard buffer?  I'll admit, the only thing I've installed H2 buffers in are a couple .223 AR15 pistols.  Can't say that helps/hurts them as I've never tried a standard buffer in either one.

One suggestion.  Cheek weld.  Without a consistent cheek weld it will be pretty hard/impossible to shrink groups if that is the ultimate goal.

"They say" red dots don't have a parallax issue but as you move the target farther and farther out they will.

It's just me, but I like to set up my optics so that I use the same cheek weld whether I'm using the optic (red dot or scope) or the back up sights.  Nose to the charging handle was the easiest for me.  Same for every AR15 so no matter which one I'm shooting it's the same.  I don't have to remember where I need to be (head/eye behind the optic/back up sights) to get the best groups - where I want them.

That's the issue.  If you don't have consistent cheek weld from shot to shot the group opens up.  If you don't have consistent cheek weld from one group to the next you might have a nice group, but the groups will move around on the target (BTDT.)

With that carbine stock (and you may be doing this already) you pick a position (4 or 6 position stock?) that allows you to be consistent for cheek weld and mark it, leave it there, remember it, etc. so the stock is always the same length when you're shooting, or you'll have the issue of the groups or individual shots moving around on the target.  When I build an AR that shows real promise I usually end up putting an old A1 style fixed stock on it so I don't have to wonder if I've got the stock in the right spot/position.  I'm up to 3 of those now and have one more stock in the garage if I feel the need.  The A2 is just a bit long for me and the A1 is about perfect.  For fixed stocks.
I stopped carrying the SIG 556R.  SIG changed models and couple/three times and stopped supporting it with parts.  So, I stopped supporting SIG.  Back to the tried/true AR15 Carbine.

Offline Rcher

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Re: Testing H Buffer with my lower build
« Reply #2 on: November 10, 2019, 03:00:14 AM »
How do you "see" the ejection pattern with a net that stops the empties on their way to their resting place?

Do you feel a difference in recoil with the H2 vs. a standard buffer?  I'll admit, the only thing I've installed H2 buffers in are a couple .223 AR15 pistols.  Can't say that helps/hurts them as I've never tried a standard buffer in either one.

One suggestion.  Cheek weld.  Without a consistent cheek weld it will be pretty hard/impossible to shrink groups if that is the ultimate goal.

"They say" red dots don't have a parallax issue but as you move the target farther and farther out they will.

It's just me, but I like to set up my optics so that I use the same cheek weld whether I'm using the optic (red dot or scope) or the back up sights.  Nose to the charging handle was the easiest for me.  Same for every AR15 so no matter which one I'm shooting it's the same.  I don't have to remember where I need to be (head/eye behind the optic/back up sights) to get the best groups - where I want them.

That's the issue.  If you don't have consistent cheek weld from shot to shot the group opens up.  If you don't have consistent cheek weld from one group to the next you might have a nice group, but the groups will move around on the target (BTDT.)

With that carbine stock (and you may be doing this already) you pick a position (4 or 6 position stock?) that allows you to be consistent for cheek weld and mark it, leave it there, remember it, etc. so the stock is always the same length when you're shooting, or you'll have the issue of the groups or individual shots moving around on the target.  When I build an AR that shows real promise I usually end up putting an old A1 style fixed stock on it so I don't have to wonder if I've got the stock in the right spot/position.  I'm up to 3 of those now and have one more stock in the garage if I feel the need.  The A2 is just a bit long for me and the A1 is about perfect.  For fixed stocks.

Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it.

(1) I have a habit to put the net at 3-5 o'clock position to catch the brass and that time I forgot that I'm filming a video. From my observations brass was ejected at 3:30 - 4:00 o'clock with H buffer and 2:30 - 3:00 with standard weight.

(2) I didn't feel any difference in recoil or cycling, so I'd probably stay with H buffer (making less stress to receiver). I think H2 will be too heavy for midlength gas port, but I have extra tungsten weights, so I can try sometime.

(3) Cheek position. Still working on it. Because of my astigmatism I switched to prism optics. I still have red dot on my 22lr upper, but I care less about accuracy when shooting rimfire - just plinking.

(4) I used to put my carbine stock to 6 (last) position, I need some distance between sights and my eyes. Because of prism optics it's not possible to co-witness with iron sights, so I'm planning to install quick detach for the optics. It would be easier to practice both during my range session.

Offline M1A4ME

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Re: Testing H Buffer with my lower build
« Reply #3 on: November 10, 2019, 06:53:23 AM »
A couple years back I was "making" a buffer for my GII.  I put an M16 type A1 fixed stock on it and the buffer tube was a different length, so I needed a different length buffer.  Cut down a rifle buffer, drilled it and installed a new bumper.  I tried modifying a couple carbine buffers looking for the right length.  Actually reduced the length of two carbine buffers by sanding down the bumpers and installing one on each end of a buffer spring (don't remember now if it was a carbine or a rifle buffer spring) with the one at the back of the tube being reversed so the big end acted as a spacer and the small end/bumper acted as a stop and cushion for the buffer on the front end.  Sounds weird, but it worked fine till I got a rifle buffer and got it shortened.

Anyway, I looked all over the place for bumpers (not knowing they were called bumpers) and got some from KAK Industries.  In case you need one, or more, or weights.

https://www.kakindustry.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=bumper

After I got my rifle buffer shortened and installed I replaced the bumpers in the carbine buffers and used them in other builds.
I stopped carrying the SIG 556R.  SIG changed models and couple/three times and stopped supporting it with parts.  So, I stopped supporting SIG.  Back to the tried/true AR15 Carbine.

 

anything