CLP

[Rigidman]

     Breakfree CLP's not a bad cleaner, but I've gone back to Hoppes for the more serious cleaning jobs or copper fouling.  For lube, my brother suggested Tri-Flow, and I'm pretty impressed with it. He raced bicycles for years, and praised it's lubricating properties even in dirty and sandy environments (smells a lot better too) . Currently I'm trying some Weapon Shield products,  and they too show promise.
     Ultimately, Most cleaners and lubes work just fine, as long as you adhere to a good maintenance schedule. Protectorants are more suited for weapons that may be in storage for a while,or in hostile conditions. Just do NOT saturate a gun with WD-40 and pack it away for years ! You'll probably wish you used cosmoline.
     Although I did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express  last night, I'd still suggest: Shoot'em often, and put'em away clean and lubed !

I remember triflow. I used to race BMX when I was younger. Just locally in Crown Point and Merrillville Ind. Never considered it for guns.

My break free got here today. It has PTFE as well. It was funny, first time I read the bottle "with movement or brushing of the parts, foreign matter will break loose and can be wiped away" So I can just wave the parts in the air? LOL!!

I've heard of ballistol and gunzilla, never tried them. But Eezox, sounds contagious to me. Hoppes has been great at carbon and lead. They also sell a rag for lead removal.

My dad and grandpa used them to wrap up their pistols, well revolvers. I remember after they cleaned them they wiped it down with that rag, reassembled it and wrapped the rag around it.

Funny, just thinking back, my dad wrapped his gun up like my grandpa. Exactly the same way. My mom's dad, must have taught my dad, or he must of been him do it. Never met my dad's dad. Left when he was 3. Amazing what you remember. I can't remember some words, they just get lost. Happens to everyone once in awhile. But other times it's so vivid like being there again.

What started me thinking about CLP was I've been getting emails from different survivalist sites, everyone's been hocking this NEW!! CLP. They don't name it, or show you the label. What you can see if it is just CLP. They claim there are only 2 types, 1 is break free and this new CLP that SEALS use. Protects from rust from sea water, and Jesus tears. And on and on. Supposedly it isn't sold to the public yet but you can get some from them. HA!! I say.

[jurek]

My dad and grandpa used them to wrap up their pistols, well revolvers. I remember after they cleaned them they wiped it down with that rag, reassembled it and wrapped the rag around it.
Funny, just thinking back, my dad wrapped his gun up like my grandpa. Exactly the same way. My mom's dad, must have taught my dad, or he must of been him do it. Never met my dad's dad. Left when he was 3. Amazing what you remember. I can't remember some words, they just get lost. Happens to everyone once in awhile. But other times it's so vivid like being there again.

Actually wrapping the gun is not a bad idea. I wasn't told to do so, but all my guns are wrapped with cloth after cleaning/lubrication process. I use the same cloth used to wipe the gun down.
Everybody is amazed seeing my guns - they look and smell like brand new all the time.

What started me thinking about CLP was I've been getting emails from different survivalist sites, everyone's been hocking this NEW!! CLP. They don't name it, or show you the label. What you can see if it is just CLP. They claim there are only 2 types, 1 is break free and this new CLP that SEALS use. Protects from rust from sea water, and Jesus tears. And on and on. Supposedly it isn't sold to the public yet but you can get some from them. HA!! I say.

Haha.. Army / SEALs / Air Force / Marine... all military agency uses some magic, never introduced to the public. Recently I've heard they won't need to use CLP anymore, because firearm manufacturers will apply DSL to the weapon (DSL stands for Durable Solid Lubricant)...

[Rigidman]

I'm surprised they just don't have a bucket of magic pixie dust they drop their weapons into and they're magically cleaned and smell like fresh baked choc. chip cookies. LOL!!

Guess I'll stick to what I'm doing and just bite the bullet with the price increase. Sounds like everyone does the same thing, grew up with something, been using something for years so if it works why fiddle with it?

Thought if there was something  better/comparable for less I'd give it a try. But looks like they all require your first born male child as a deposit followed by 1 arm and a leg.

Eezox!! Don't get any on you, might grow horns or something.

[jurek]

To be honest... we shouldn't give a s&%t what we apply to the gun. This tool was made to take big bum, high temperature, huge pressure... so what's the difference if we use Hoppe's 9, MPro7, Mil-Comm25 or KG-12? Probably Windows10 will work if we know how to use it in this application 
There is only one rule - Clean -> Lube -> Preserve... and it really doesn't matter what do you use, just do these 3 things. 

I've shot Walther PPQ, cleaned with cheap stuff, lubed with Mobil1 - never had single problem. I've cleaned Glock with "hand cleaner" and lubed with Mil-Comm - no single issue. CZ P-01 - cleaned with Shooters Lube Cleaner, lubed with Ballistol; RIA 1911 - cleaned with soap and water, then lubed with Lukas oil.
My PPQ run completely dry sometimes and this never hurt it.
So as you can see, we can have preferences, likes, dislikes... but does your firearm care about it?  You need to know your gun, and keep it in shape... brand of solvents / lubes / preservatives doesn't matter. 

[Goju]

They’re not teasing for Froglube, are they? That is a CLP product that has been on the market for a while. When it was first on the market I believe the selling point was that it was bio-based and developed by Navy SEALS.
From the FAQ on the Froglube web site, the answer to the question of “how does Froglube work” has the following
Answer:
FrogLube is a heavy specific gravity “food grade” mixture that seeps deep into the micro spaces of the metal and acts as if to ‘season’  the surface of the bore, any friction points and all areas treated with the lube.
Once treated, fouling particles resist bonding to metal surfaces;  instead, they easily wipe away or brush off the surface. This also applies to other loose fouling particles such as dirt, dust, and sand. 
FrogLube does not film, nor is it a coating. Instead, it is a treatment that is absorbed throughout the firearm.  It is water-insoluble and will repel water and resist corrosion.

When I read this when it first came on the market, I had to laugh because, 1. Since forged metal does not have pores, it can’t be absorbed into it and 2. If forged metal did have pores to allow absorption, you wouldn’t want a firearm made from it. The description on Amazon seems to accentuate the point of absorption.......seeps deep into micro spaces.....cast metal does have porosity due to the nature of its processing, but I’m pretty sure no manufacturer is making barrels from castings.

Every product on the market will fill a “micro space”

[crosstimbers]

I use break free clp, but also Hoppes for bore cleaning, followed by clp or gun oil. It works, and Ive never had any problems with corrosion, so far anyways. I tried some of the foaming bore cleaners with a badly fouled barrel once, they seemed to do okay as well.

[Rigidman]

They don't mention the product by brand of course. "IT'S MAGIC CLP" ooOOOoo!! LOL!! For all I know they took break free or frog lube and put it in a bottle.

After the new break free got here, I finally found my old cleaning kit in a wood box my dad gave me. Looked everywhere for it. I think I have some little people living under the house stealing my stuff. LOL!! Anyway it had a bottle of break free too, almost full.

Cable went out other day so I decided to clean all my guns. On the Tanfo I found what I call chatter marks. Where the slide rides in the frame. The frame had it worse than the slide. They're shiny marks, looks like long dots. They're on both sides. In the low part where the slide rides. I just oiled it. Took a pic. When I go to the range I'll compare see if it's worse or same. Probably nothing to worry about.

On my 97B I found some rough edges on the slide where the lug for the guide rod is. I just filed them down. They weren't anywhere near anything mechanical. Also bought new 16# recoil spring and ss guide rod.

Anyway I cleaned a gun with the break free and one with hoppes. They both worked as good. Didn't leave the break free on. Wiped it off because I know how gummy it gets. Also it was an old bottle. Need to get some armourers grease. Have some slide glide. Going to test it out at the range. Just didn't want to let it set. Don't know if it'll get gummy.  I also used Hoppes oil on them all. Since I found my kit it had plastic bottles with long stainless needle like applicators. Works really well to put oil where you want it and cleaner. Since oils lighter in color than cleaner simple to tell apart.

I also keep syringes in my range bag. Throw some clp in it and blast out bunk and carbon.

[rstrobel]

I bought a case of milsurp CLP about 7 years ago and I have zero complaints. It has been excellent for long term storage and cleaning.

[Rigidman]

It's G96 CLP they're selling. Finally found out. Apparently the army and navy seals use it. So, yeah I'll get my credit card while you hold your breath. It's a non solvent clp. I thought break free was non solvent. But it does have ptfe. Except the old bottle I found doesn't have ptfe on the label. Maybe they forgot it was in there. In the Army our break free was white. We used to joke about it. Wondered what the armourer was doing. Anyway now it's more like an oil.

[Moe Mentum]

I use Breakfree CLP,  I buy it by the gallon ....  it's cheaper when you buy in bulk.

[Togmaster]

Balistol to clean and Mobil 1 to lube