An Exercise with P10c, 124gr. FMJ with Sport Pistol powder

[Duke Nukem]

Really cool to see the progression. Thanks for sharing! Looks like you have a winner at 3.7gr.

Any idea why all your shots are up and to the right? At 10 yards on a bench I would hope to see more holes in the center bullseye.

Also, might be better to share the data from lowest to highest weight in the future since we should be working up the ladder and read left to right.

Looking forward to seeing more of these from you. Keep it up!

I'll take your suggestion and present from lowest to highest.

  I'd like to see more holes in the bullseye, too!  As many a beginner shooter, I'd like to blame the gun for the bullets not going where I want them to, but . . . it's quite likely my fault and I haven't figured it out yet.

[Duke Nukem]

Didn't mean it as a dig!  More of constructive criticism. [emoji16]  There are so many things that go into making consistent rounds, I'm still learning all the time.

Case lube helps
Consistent handle pull
Good metering powder
Case head stamps
Etc...

Also how you shoot through the chrono will also affect the data.   Aligning it with the target and minimizing shooting through it at an angle helps.

Plus or minus 0.003 is pretty good!  I don't think I acheive that with coat lead. 

Regardless of the velocity spread it looks like you found some decent accuracy loads that will shoot nicely.

Cheers,
Toby

Thanks, Tdogg!  I appreciate all the help I can get, if I wasn't going to listen I wouldn't have started this thread.  I'm not used to interpreting chronograph results, so I didn't know if a SD of 21 was good or bad!   

When I first started looking at reloading presses I thought about starting with a Dillon progressive, thinking buy once and grow into it.  I reconsidered and went with the Lee Classic turret press, figuring I'd rather make, find and correct my mistakes one at a time.  I tried the tube of case lube that came with the press and it did make a big difference in ease of pull, but I haven't kept up the use of it.  I need to figure out a better way to apply it than squeeze on my fingers and rub into the dies.

[sevt_chevelle]

The easiest way to apply lube on pistol cases, I lube all of my cases, take a gallon freezer zip lock bag some Hornady one shot, two sprays inside the bag and throw in some brass.  Now just shake its around.  This method IMO keeps any lube from getting into the interior of the case.
My press a Dillon 650 runs so much smoother with lubed cases.  I also lube all my rifle brass using this method, I just use the Dillon spray lube instead of Hornady.

[Duke Nukem]

The easiest way to apply lube on pistol cases, I lube all of my cases, take a gallon freezer zip lock bag some Hornady one shot, two sprays inside the bag and throw in some brass.  Now just shake its around.  This method IMO keeps any lube from getting into the interior of the case.
My press a Dillon 650 runs so much smoother with lubed cases.  I also lube all my rifle brass using this method, I just use the Dillon spray lube instead of Hornady.

Thanks!  I'll pick some up and give it a go, sounds easy.

[Duke Nukem]

Man, oh man ! 3.7gr just won't go away, will it ?   

So the black dot seemed to help you. Those targets are much more consistent.

I'll hang with Tdogg. Looks like 3.7gr for plinking and 4.0 for competition.

 

Thanks, Wobbly!  You're right, the black dot did help- I think a bigger dot like on the targets you showed me would be better, I found at times that the hole from the first shot looked about the same as that dot- now which one do I aim at?  I have an optic on order, that may help with the old eyes.  I think my vision in my dominant eye isn't too bad, but it's not what it used to be.

So at this point I think the takeaway for me is I've identified a couple loads to explore, and I need to more closely examine my loading processes to try to get more consistency.  What kind of SD should I be looking for?  I've done some reading on using the chronograph, but haven't gotten the answer to that yet.

  I had heard one or two reloaders say they didn't much use their chronographs any more; I think I got some useful information from it yesterday.  I guess they meant after they used a chronograph and developed what worked for them, they didn't need to continue using one.

[Duke Nukem]

So now you get to learn two disciplines at the same time, and try to determine cause and effect with a lot of simultaneous variables.  Did I mention I don't reload?   

(You, however, can do it!)

Joe

Thanks, Joe!  Yes, right now the shooter is one big variable.  I think your suggestion on following up on the most promising loads is very good and I'll make that my next exercise, along with case lube and stricter QC.

I'm loving the learning experience so far, and the responses from knowledgeable people is invaluable to me.

Many years back I began learning how to do ornamental iron work (blacksmithing, only not making horse shoes) and my father-in-law asked if I found it difficult to learn.  I thought about it, then responded that at first it seemed difficult, then as I learned a bit I decided it wasn't so hard, then as I learned more I began to realize it really is difficult.  Put another way, the basics were not too hard to get down (shaping hot metal like clay), but to be good at it you need to understand the crystalline structures of metal, heat treating, what alloys to select for the results you want, how to make tools . . .  it's not something you master in a year or two, and I presume the world of shooting and reloading will continue to challenge and reward me for the rest of my life.

[tdogg]

Thanks, Tdogg!  I appreciate all the help I can get, if I wasn't going to listen I wouldn't have started this thread.  I'm not used to interpreting chronograph results, so I didn't know if a SD of 21 was good or bad!   

When I first started looking at reloading presses I thought about starting with a Dillon progressive, thinking buy once and grow into it.  I reconsidered and went with the Lee Classic turret press, figuring I'd rather make, find and correct my mistakes one at a time.  I tried the tube of case lube that came with the press and it did make a big difference in ease of pull, but I haven't kept up the use of it.  I need to figure out a better way to apply it than squeeze on my fingers and rub into the dies.

The Lee Classic Turret is a great press to learn on.  I still have mine.

If you go to the auto parts store get two bottles of ISO Heet and a find a spray bottle (my spray bottle was an old hunting scent control bottle).  Mix half a tube of Lee lube with one bottle of ISO Heat.  The ISO Heet is 90+% IPA and will cut the Lee lube down.  Shake well and spray on cases (a few squirts) laid out on old towel (regulated to rag use), and then tumble cases with the towel ends.  I've also heard of folks using an old pillow case.  The IPA will evaporate quickly and leave a thin film of lube on the cases.  My Lee lube lasted me years of pistol reloading.  I now use One shot for pistol with the same process.

Case lube on your fingers should be regulated to precision rifle sizing.  I use Imperial sizing wax for my hunting and precision rifle case sizing.  It is much better and gives a consistent shoulder setback.  If you intend on bulk 5.56/223 loading, then you can get away with the homebrew or One shot for case sizing (just use a few extra squirts).  It will get the die coated and provide enough sizing lube (especially since you need to bump the shoulder more in a gas gun) to get the job done.

Cheers,
Toby

[Wobbly]

I had heard one or two reloaders say they didn't much use their chronographs any more; I think I got some useful information from it yesterday.  I guess they meant after they used a chronograph and developed what worked for them, they didn't need to continue using one.

I have a shovel I love to use when I transplant young trees. It works great. There's nothing better, but I only use it for a 2 week period in late Winter. The rest of the time it's leaned up against the wall in the shed.

Chronos tend to be the used the same way. When you need it there's nothing better, but the rest of the time...

PS. Be sure and remove the batteries.

[eastman]

... Chronos tend to be the used the same way. When you need it there's nothing better, but the rest of the time...

they are just a really expensive target