Galvanic corrosion in firearms, is it a concern?

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

Those grips came in today, in case anyone was wondering what they look like.
 

I was worried they would make the trigger reach worse, because they're the thick palmswell type, but they're thin at the top, se it's not a problem at all. They're very comfortable.

If I keep these on longterm it sounds like greasing the mating surfaces will be the way to go. M1A4ME, does that form-a gasket have an adhesive characteristic when it dries?

Form A Gasket is an OLD name for what we call RTV today. The long and short is that sealer is silicone and it dries to a rubbery consistency. There are varying grades for chemical resistance and adhesion. I would not use it in any firearms application. Even a very thin coating on the inside of your grips could make them difficult to remove. I would lightly oil the mating surface of the gun and grips and just maintain it that way. The gun is not going to corrode.

[Swamp ash]

Those grips came in today, in case anyone was wondering what they look like.
 

I was worried they would make the trigger reach worse, because they're the thick palmswell type, but they're thin at the top, se it's not a problem at all. They're very comfortable.

If I keep these on longterm it sounds like greasing the mating surfaces will be the way to go. M1A4ME, does that form-a gasket have an adhesive characteristic when it dries?

Those are spiffy-looking grips!!

I suppose you could spray the bottom of the grips with something like krylon to coat and seal the surface. That would not even be noticeable or likely not have any other effect.

[Gunnerdad80]

The grips are made for a pistol with a steel or aluminum frame so I don’t really think you need to do anything except take them off and clean underneath and oil every once in a while.

[eastman]

Those grips came in today, in case anyone was wondering what they look like.
 

I was worried they would make the trigger reach worse, because they're the thick palmswell type, but they're thin at the top, se it's not a problem at all. They're very comfortable.

If I keep these on longterm it sounds like greasing the mating surfaces will be the way to go. M1A4ME, does that form-a gasket have an adhesive characteristic when it dries?

Form A Gasket is an OLD name for what we call RTV today. The long and short is that sealer is silicone and it dries to a rubbery consistency. There are varying grades for chemical resistance and adhesion. I would not use it in any firearms application. Even a very thin coating on the inside of your grips could make them difficult to remove. I would lightly oil the mating surface of the gun and grips and just maintain it that way. The gun is not going to corrode.

The acetic acid  that is emitted when RTV cures might cause more problems than the RTV solves.

[Jim E]

It looks good to me. Is the pistol actually stainless? The image looks like it is coated.
I would be more concerned of the brass tarnishing than galvanic problems. Clear coat the grips, kill both problems at the same time.

[Gunnerdad80]

Those grips came in today, in case anyone was wondering what they look like.
 

I was worried they would make the trigger reach worse, because they're the thick palmswell type, but they're thin at the top, se it's not a problem at all. They're very comfortable.

If I keep these on longterm it sounds like greasing the mating surfaces will be the way to go. M1A4ME, does that form-a gasket have an adhesive characteristic when it dries?

Form A Gasket is an OLD name for what we call RTV today. The long and short is that sealer is silicone and it dries to a rubbery consistency. There are varying grades for chemical resistance and adhesion. I would not use it in any firearms application. Even a very thin coating on the inside of your grips could make them difficult to remove. I would lightly oil the mating surface of the gun and grips and just maintain it that way. The gun is not going to corrode.

The acetic acid  that is emitted when RTV cures might cause more problems than the RTV solves.

True. Same reason it’s a bad idea to use RTV to try and seal a leaky windshield in a car or truck. It will almost surely lead to rust.

[Bullets n BBQ]

It looks good to me. Is the pistol actually stainless? The image looks like it is coated.
I would be more concerned of the brass tarnishing than galvanic problems. Clear coat the grips, kill both problems at the same time.

The pistol is stainless. I might go with the clear coat option, otherwise the brass probably will get dull very fast

[Gunnerdad80]

It looks good to me. Is the pistol actually stainless? The image looks like it is coated.
I would be more concerned of the brass tarnishing than galvanic problems. Clear coat the grips, kill both problems at the same time.

The pistol is stainless. I might go with the clear coat option, otherwise the brass probably will get dull very fast

Maybe let the brass patina? You never know, might look good.

[mkd]

i know when inletting barrels and actions that johnson's paste wax used for hardwood floors is what people recommend so the glass bedding doesn't bond to the barrels and trigger housings. i have used it and it works. i would try that but i am guessing the grips unless clear coated are going to tarnish.

[jwc007]

I suppose you could spray the bottom of the grips with something like krylon to coat and seal the surface. That would not even be noticeable or likely not have any other effect.

+1 ! 

A light application of Krylon Clear Coat and all would be good!!! 

[Pubb]

If it is actually stainless, you don't need to worry - the brass is actually going to be sacrificed, not the frame.

If the frame steel, the brass is slightly more cathodic, but not much. The steel would be sacrificed, but not appreciably.

If the frame is aluminum, it would get sacrificed much more rapidly.

Give it a rubdown with some paste wax, candle wax, bees wax and you're good. These are not friction points where the insulator will wear off.

The screws or bushing also need to be protected.

[Bullets n BBQ]

Maybe let the brass patina? You never know, might look good.

For sure! And some patina will always look better than a clear coat that decides to flake.

Pubb, how do you determine which of two metals is more cathodic? I thought it might have to do with their relative positions on the anodic scale, but on the scale I found, stainless steel and aluminum are both higher voltage than brass.

The consensus I'm seeing here is that this is a non issue. I've been overprotective of my CZ since I found out the stainless models were discontinued, but it's not exactly a rarity.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

Maybe let the brass patina? You never know, might look good.

For sure! And some patina will always look better than a clear coat that decides to flake.

Pubb, how do you determine which of two metals is more cathodic? I thought it might have to do with their relative positions on the anodic scale, but on the scale I found, stainless steel and aluminum are both higher voltage than brass.

The consensus I'm seeing here is that this is a non issue. I've been overprotective of my CZ since I found out the stainless models were discontinued, but it's not exactly a rarity.

Yes let it patina. That's the reason for using brass in the first place since it will usually develop some interesting characteristics over time. You can look this up on some of the watch forums as brass cased wristwatches have become a "thing" over the past few years.

[Gunnerdad80]

Maybe let the brass patina? You never know, might look good.

For sure! And some patina will always look better than a clear coat that decides to flake.

Pubb, how do you determine which of two metals is more cathodic? I thought it might have to do with their relative positions on the anodic scale, but on the scale I found, stainless steel and aluminum are both higher voltage than brass.

The consensus I'm seeing here is that this is a non issue. I've been overprotective of my CZ since I found out the stainless models were discontinued, but it's not exactly a rarity.

Yes let it patina. That's the reason for using brass in the first place since it will usually develop some interesting characteristics over time. You can look this up on some of the watch forums as brass cased wristwatches have become a "thing" over the past few years.

I’m a self-proclaimed watch junky and I’ve never heard of brass/bronze case watches. I looked them up and they’re pretty sweet but I didn’t see one under $800. Dang, guess I’ll stick to pistols. 

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

Maybe let the brass patina? You never know, might look good.

For sure! And some patina will always look better than a clear coat that decides to flake.

Pubb, how do you determine which of two metals is more cathodic? I thought it might have to do with their relative positions on the anodic scale, but on the scale I found, stainless steel and aluminum are both higher voltage than brass.

The consensus I'm seeing here is that this is a non issue. I've been overprotective of my CZ since I found out the stainless models were discontinued, but it's not exactly a rarity.

Yes let it patina. That's the reason for using brass in the first place since it will usually develop some interesting characteristics over time. You can look this up on some of the watch forums as brass cased wristwatches have become a "thing" over the past few years.

I’m a self-proclaimed watch junky and I’ve never heard of brass/bronze case watches. I looked them up and they’re pretty sweet but I didn’t see one under $800. Dang, guess I’ll stick to pistols. 

Yeah some are fairly pricey but there are some more affordable models out there. Check out the bronze models in Steinharts diver line.