Bench Block Question

[Earl Keese]

If it gets the job done then no harm no foul.

Needed it for firing pin retaining pin and extractor pin only... Yes, it worked perfectly.

I used a roll of 2" masking tape to hold my P-01 slide for my first pro-kit install. I actually like it better than my Wheeler universal block for removing the FPRP. Several years later that roll of tape is still in my box of gun tools - it has lots of holes in it.
 Back then, that CZC bench block seemed like a lot of money to spend, so I bought the wheeler. Fast forward a few years and it's nothing compared to what I've spent on other gun smiting tools. I don't know anybody with only one CZ, and of those, if you have one with cajun parts the rest are soon to follow. I'd buy the CZC block and a roll of tape.

[mkd]

2" roll of masking tape and or a hockey puck with a few holes drilled in it is alot cheaper!

[M1A4ME]

I keep looking at/thinking about getting one of those.  I piddle around with guns all the time. 

Up to now, what I've used is the piece of wood you see in the middle of the AR15 bolt parts and punches.  The screw sticking up is used to help me push/hold the ejector in the AR15 bolt when I drive the roll pin it enough to hold the ejector in place.  It doubles (first reason for install it) as a place to put the CZ pistol hammer spring cup on while pushing down on the frame so it's easy to push the pin in that holds the cup in place.  Edited to add - forgot about the hole (that you can't see due to the angle/light) I used to drive the pins into when I'm driving them out of the slide, frame, hammer, front sight/frame, etc.



Amazon is easy.  I think I'll order one of those blocks while it's on my mind.

[cotignola]

I keep looking at/thinking about getting one of those.  I piddle around with guns all the time. 

Up to now, what I've used is the piece of wood you see in the middle of the AR15 bolt parts and punches.  The screw sticking up is used to help me push/hold the ejector in the AR15 bolt when I drive the roll pin it enough to hold the ejector in place.  It doubles (first reason for install it) as a place to put the CZ pistol hammer spring cup on while pushing down on the frame so it's easy to push the pin in that holds the cup in place.  Edited to add - forgot about the hole (that you can't see due to the angle/light) I used to drive the pins into when I'm driving them out of the slide, frame, hammer, front sight/frame, etc.



Amazon is easy.  I think I'll order one of those blocks while it's on my mind.

Thank you!!!

[Jim E]

A wood block is just about perfect but a tacking hammer? It might be genius...

[radagast]

    For years I was content using a hunk of 2X4, but upgraded after my neighbors kid put a hockey puck through my basement window. He offered to pay for the window, but I told him we'd be even if I could keep the puck. A few different sized holes, some chamfering, and table saw work -   Voila, bench block !  An old geezer like me doesn't need much more more precision than that anyway .

[M1A4ME]

The small hammer works, for some things.

A couple/three years ago I remember someone here talking about a "big hammer". 

Using a small hammer works, for some things (sorry, had to say it again) but sometimes you need a bigger hammer.  I went out and bought a 2 lb. shop hammer with a little 10" handle on it for when I need a bigger hammer.

Small hammers, to move something tough, need to move faster.  Small hammer face, small punch, small pin, sometimes = oops!!

Big hammer, to move something tough, doesn't need to move so fast.  Big hammer face, small punch, small pin = much more hammer face to help you not miss that small punch.

That little hammer works fine on the AR15 bolt (extractor/ejector pins).  Pain in the butt on the CZ hammer/disconnector pins.  That's what the big hammer is for.  Sometimes you run into a real stubborn factory trigger pin on a CZ75. 

When I clean a pistol I lube internally, put it back together, load it (if it's a carry/around the house pistol) and then use a drop of lube in the front sight pin, extractor pin, firing pin retaining pin, grip screws, mag. release, rear sight set screw, rear sight dovetail, hammer pin, etc. - any place moisture/sweat can work into the interior of the pistol and cause rust issues.  Then I wipe it off with the same oily cloth used to wipe the surface down before I put it away.  So far, I've not found a pin rusted/stuck in one of my CZs.  They seem to drive out pretty easily (except for those darn disconnector/hammer spring guide pins).

[cotignola]

The small hammer works, for some things.

A couple/three years ago I remember someone here talking about a "big hammer". 

Using a small hammer works, for some things (sorry, had to say it again) but sometimes you need a bigger hammer.  I went out and bought a 2 lb. shop hammer with a little 10" handle on it for when I need a bigger hammer.

Small hammers, to move something tough, need to move faster.  Small hammer face, small punch, small pin, sometimes = oops!!

Big hammer, to move something tough, doesn't need to move so fast.  Big hammer face, small punch, small pin = much more hammer face to help you not miss that small punch.

That little hammer works fine on the AR15 bolt (extractor/ejector pins).  Pain in the butt on the CZ hammer/disconnector pins.  That's what the big hammer is for.  Sometimes you run into a real stubborn factory trigger pin on a CZ75. 

When I clean a pistol I lube internally, put it back together, load it (if it's a carry/around the house pistol) and then use a drop of lube in the front sight pin, extractor pin, firing pin retaining pin, grip screws, mag. release, rear sight set screw, rear sight dovetail, hammer pin, etc. - any place moisture/sweat can work into the interior of the pistol and cause rust issues.  Then I wipe it off with the same oily cloth used to wipe the surface down before I put it away.  So far, I've not found a pin rusted/stuck in one of my CZs.  They seem to drive out pretty easily (except for those darn disconnector/hammer spring guide pins).

Thank you for the reply.  I got a 8lbs Grace hammer & a much smaller hammer ... I am guessing 2lbs hammer in my electronic repair set from iFixit.   

I will follow the practice to oil the pins on a regular basis!!!

Taker care,
MAC

[Duke Nukem]

Thank you for the reply.  I got a 8 lbs Grace hammer  . .

Well, that ought to be big enough, just try not to crush your hand (or your firearm) if you miss!   

[cotignola]

Thank you for the reply.  I got a 8 lbs Grace hammer  . .

Well, that ought to be big enough, just try not to crush your hand (or your firearm) if you miss!   

 

[M1A4ME]

I will mention one other thing, well, maybe, two.

1.  Get a set of starter punches.  When you get down into the small diameter punches (like for the front sight roll pin) it is so easy to bend the shaft on the punch you might want to order spares for your spares.  A short shaft (1/2" or so) will get that pin moving without nearly the risk of bending and when it gets to the point in pin movement that you need the longer punch the pin is moving much easier by then.

2.  The roll pin punches.  Ignored them for years and then I got a set.  Definitely should have bought them years ago.

3.  Roll pin starter punches.  Another thing I ignored when I was more ignorant.  Used to tape a piece of thin cardboard to the left side of the AR receivers, grab a pair of needle nosed pliers to hold the bolt catch pin, grab the punch, grab the hammer and try to hold onto the pliers, the punch and the hammer while driving the pin into place.  Now I grab the roll pin starter punch (the right size), insert the roll pin into the end, put the other end of the roll pin on the hole in the receiver and tap the end of the punch with that small hammer.  Easy to see when it gets almost in there and I need to replace the starter punch with the standard roll pin punch.  And much easier to do with only two hands.

Ended up being three things, didn't it. 

Dang it, I'm wondering when I'm going to get my bench block I ordered the other day.  I'd have figured it would be here by now since the Amazon warehouse is only about 15 miles from here.

[Jim E]

Good advise on the roll pin tools. I would add the sectioned D-shaped pin punch when working with the AR platform. That and a little blue tape keeps your receiver looking good while working on the bolt release.
Amazon is running a little slower these days.

[eastman]

... Ended up being three things, didn't it.

Dang it, I'm wondering when I'm going to get my bench block I ordered the other day.  I'd have figured it would be here by now since the Amazon warehouse is only about 15 miles from here.

In a way it was really still just one thing - "having the right tools makes the job easier - e.g. starter punches, roll pin punches and roll pin starter punches"

Amazon has been very slow lately. An order placed in April took over 3 weeks. They offered to speed it up by 2 days if I would sign up for Prime.