I love the P-10 series of pistols and have three of them myself. They are very different from the hammer fired guns and, having never owned a Glock, they were all new to me.
However, there are characteristics from a general firearm safety standpoint that, unfortunately, I failed to take in to account when modifying my P-10's. I want to bring these up in this thread to help others avoid the problem that I created for myself, and have since addressed without incident.
I learned nearly 10 years ago NOT to modify the CZ hammer gun's factory hammer or sear. This applied to the 75B, 97B, and P-09/07 series. I created a machine gun doing that, thus my "best tools for CZ are a credit card and cell phone" philosophy. That was humorous but I am serious--it is too easy to mess up the timing and reliability features in the design if one just starts filing and polishing extensively. I found out first hand that the CZ design is not as forgiving as a 1911 or even a P-226 SIG. We are much better off from a safety and reliability standpoint to buy proven aftermarket parts (my choice is CGW) and NOT MODIFY THEM.
I extend that recommendation to the P-10 platform as well. I'm not talking about a 2 second touch of Flitz on a soft wheel like Earl shows in the video above--that isn't going to change the geometry. I'm talking about stoning the trigger bar or disconnector or striker contact points. That much material removal can change the geometry and result in the striker/trigger bar contact area reduction and/or change the angle(s) such that the striker can slide off the trigger bar and cause an unintended discharge (aka AD or double). This happened to me recently with my P-10S when I slingshot loaded the first round of a fresh magazine and the gun went off as the barrel went in to battery. Surprised me. Gun was aimed at the target, so all OK, at the range. I was able to duplicate the incident at home with an unloaded gun, maybe 1 time in 5 trials, not good. Apparently, I had gone too far to try to get the perfect trigger.
So I changed the striker and cleaned the gun to make sure the trigger bar was going moving freely over its full range of motion and tried to duplicate the problem at home again. Problem solved. Then I went to the range and shot 50 rounds, loaded mostly one at a time, trying to separate the trigger bar and striker using as rough handling as I could while keeping the gun aimed safely in to the berm. Hit the gun from the bottom, the top, the side, slingshot load, slide release load, everything. All good.
So, my recommendation for the P-10 series--don't file or stone any of the critical contact points, especially the trigger bar/striker interface, keep the gun clean, and rigorously safety check the gun unloaded on the bench, and then again at the range with live ammo away from others and near a berm after changing out any parts or doing even some very, very, light polishing.
Be cautious, be very conservative in what you do, buy good parts, and, most important of all, be safe FIRST, then enjoy your modified firearm.
My P-10F and P-10C will get the same rough treatment next week before I make any 100 yard videos, that's for sure. And I'll probably need to get out the credit card and cell phone tools, yet once again.
Joe
