Cleaning Brush for 457 22lr - Size? Brass or nylon?

[JNS]

I've already done a bit of poking around on various forums but seem to get conflicting advice on cleaning brushes for the 457 22lr.

Just got a 457 Pro in 22lr. Shot it once with CCI standard in a janky setup and... oh man do I love this thing! I had cleaned it before I shot it w/ an OTIS cable, patch, and Hoppes no9, but before I did a 2nd cleaning I wanted to get the proper stuff. Looked online and found all the notes about .20 cal rods/jags and such due to tight tolerances, so picked up a Tipton .17-.20 rod and .20 brass jags. My questions, however, are about brushes.

1) Do I need a .20 brush or a .22 brush? I purchased Tipton .20 cal Best Gun Bore Brushes, but when I was curious and tested fit by inserting one into the muzzle with my hand, it slid right in, almost as if it was too loose. I'm concerned it won't really do much. I had some OTIS .22 cal brass brushes laying around and sized those up, and they almost appear too big! But maybe not, since the bristles bend quite a bit? I've seen some people talking about using .20 brushes in forums (which is why I got them), but I just don't get why the fit would be so loose.
2) I've seen some people say to stay away from brass brushes for 22lr barrels and go with nylon brushes. I don't know much about nylon brushes, but I guess that advice sort of makes sense if you're only shooting lead round nose. Any advice here?
3) At the end of the day... how much do I even need to worry about using brushes for a 22lr if I'm cleaning with patches & Hoppes 9 after every shooting session?

On a side note, I bought a Tipton universal bore guide only to find it wouldn't fit past that lip in the bottom of the action that the bolt rides along. So it appears I can get a custom fit bore guide from possumhollowproducts.com but I also noticed the way these are designed it leaves the bottom half of the tube open near the end that's up against the bore, which subsequently is where all the solvent typically seems to squeeze off a patch when you first insert it into the bore from the action (even if you're using small amounts.) So in this case, I think that means solvent constantly dripping down into the action and mag well, which I've noticed is plastic. Also, if I'm using a bore brush and going back and forth in the barrel, that means possible flecks and crud getting down in the plastic mag well too when the brush comes back out the action side. I've tried getting a cloth into the well to wipe it down and noticed it's dang hard because of how narrow it is... I can't see what's going on in there. I guess I'm concerned that if I have solvent and metal stuff down in there, it will mar up or eat away at the well or plastic mags as I insert/remove mags. Any thoughts about these concerns, or methods to reduce the issue? Any 457 bore guides out there that have closed ends on the part that butts up against the bore?

First time posting. Thanks for any help that can be provided.

[eastman]

I clean my 455 exclusively with the Otis cables. I use the built-in patch holder and/or Otis .22 brass brushes.

If you use a rigid rod, you need one sized for a .17 and not a .22 to fit the tighter CZ bore.

[JNS]

Yep, as mentioned above I now have a .17-.20 rod and .20 jags. Also familiar with the Otis cable and patch system as I have it (very handy for my mini-14.)

[Boris_LA]

I use a piece of 150lb fishing line, knotted on one side. Airgun cleaning felt pellet (.177) threaded through, to assure tight patch fit. I have a selection of jags and rods, but have not used them for many years. The same for my pistols, just shorter line. Few patches (one-two with oil and 3-4 dry) through is enough for sparkling clean bore.
The only times when I use brush (brass) is for my centerfire pistols, to clean chamber from carbon buildup.

[skin]

 I use a 20 cal rod and nylon 22 rimfire brushes. Don't use 22 cal rifle brushes, as they are intended for centerfire rifles. I do have on hand brass 22rf brushes although don't use them much, only for removing tough carbon or lead. I use one of the derlyn bore guides. I put a patch on the flat part  and turn the rifle upside-down. When I'm finished cleaning I use a large bore mop to clean the action and bolt area.  Use a good rimfire bore solvent like bore tech rimfire blend or something similar.
 Happy Holidays and have fun shooting.

[JNS]

Upside down... genius! I'll have to try that out and see if my scope lets me with my vice. And the advice for 22 cal nylon brushes seems to match what I've found elsewhere. Thanks skin!

I use Hoppes #9 for pretty much all my cleaning. Didnt know there was rimfire specific solvent out there. I'll have to look into it and the differences.

[M1A4ME]

Do not push the rod/brush/patch down the barrel.  The rod is under compressive force and will bend and rub the lands.

Pull the rod/brush/patch through the barrel with the brush/patch starting at the chamber and moving to and out of the muzzle.  The rod is under tension and will stay straight - as long as you  pull slow/straight.

And, if you start at the chamber and move to the muzzle all the crud you're trying to get out is really out - not just shoved from the barrel into the chamber/receiver area.

And, if you use something like Bore Tech Eliminator use a nylon brush.  That stuff is made to remove jacket material and will eat your brass brush.  Won't bother nylon.

The old rod my grandpa and my dad used on their .22's for decades was a steel rod.  Both those old rifles are still tack drivers.  As dad used to say, "It shoots right where I hold it."  Both of them preferred head shots on squirrels and rabbits (easier on rabbits, bigger head) and both would sometimes head/neck shoot ruffed grouse as the grouse walked around under the wild grape vines feeding.  The rifles really are sweet shooting .22s (Western Field single shot nearing 100 years old and a pre WW2 Savage M29.)

Take care of your .22 and it will outlast you and probably your kids, too.

[skin]

 Glad I could help.

[BillG56]

I agree with skin about using nylon brushes.  I make it a habit of not using brass brushes ever. 

I also use Bore Tech products exclusively on all my firearms.  Their Rimfire Blend works well.  But, there are many cleaning intervals employed by some very good long distance rimfire shooters that might surprise you.  I suggest you take a look on the following forum in their rimfire subforum: https://www.snipershide.com/precision-rifle/.  Those guys are pretty serious over there.

As to what size cleaning rod to use, that may depend on the firearm you are using.  For instance, Vudoo Gun Works recommends using a 20 cal. rod for their rifles.  On my much more pedestrian Savage, I use a coated Dewey 22 cal. rod w/o any problems.

YMMV.  HTH.

[Hamilton99]

I clean every .22lr barrel only with nylon brush, twice a year with brass. Most rimfires makes great accuracy with ocasionally cleaned barrels

[MGeo832]

... I use one of the derlyn bore guides. I put a patch on the flat part...

Where to get a derlyn bore guide. Yes the extractor for the 457 requires a groove in the guide. I've emailed Possum Hollow and had no reply. I read it is a one man shop and the owner has health issues (well wishes are sent). Other sources for the derlyn guide?
Mike

[rdcinhou]

From the CZUSA FAQs: https://cz-usa.com/support/faq/

Q: “I’ve heard you use tight bores in your .22s, is that right? What does that mean?”

A: Our 22 LRs use our cold hammer forged and lapped barrels, and are built a bit tighter than many other guns. In 22 LR we run a .211 bore, which is one of the reasons our .22s are known for incredible accuracy. This also means that a .17 or .20 rod and jag are required for cleaning, since a .22 rod will be too large.

Additionally, use of .22 Short, Long and ‘Sub-Sonic’ ammunition isn’t recommended because of the tight bore. This is not to exclude quality match or target ammos, which may remain sub-sonic in speed.

[david s]

You might try Sinclair/Brownells for the Possum Hollow bore guide and you might try Bore Tech and there number 92 Delrin guide for the CZ 424/453/455/457.

[ltprodtorreyh]

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