Pre-B extractor pin stuck

[timmy75]

Yes that is the process of staking the hole.  It doesn't need much deformation but does need some to prevent the pin from walking down.  You can deform the same spot over and over as needed when pulling apart for inspection.  Here is a picture of my TSO, as you can see I've done it a couple of times.



I'd reevaluate your cleaning frequency.  You could probably reduce that to every 5000 rounds as long as you keep the extractor hook free of debris.  I use spray cleaner (gun scrubber, brake cleaner, or electronics parts cleaner) to keep the channel clean between inspections.

Cheers,
Toby

OK, thanks, I'll try to do it as you suggested 

[barrelproofdrinker88]

Update on this.  extractor pin out easily with 1/16” starter punch.

However the trigger pin was a huge pain.  I could only get it to move with the starter punch which was a problem due to the limited depth.  The standard punches would just bend and break.  After punching it back and forth trying right and left with the same issues, I just used a 3mm piece of the broken 1/16 punch to “extend” the reach of the starter punch with that intercalated piece.  Luckily that was enough to then finish with the standard punch.  Definitely getting the CGW floating trigger pin for this…

For those with pre-Bs, is this trigger pin hole smaller requiring any sanding/circular filing to enlarge the hole?  There are a couple posts mentioning even the CGW pin was a tight fit.  I don’t want to go through this again. 

[M1A4ME]

On my Pre B CZ85 it was.  I had a heck of a time getting that floating trigger pin installed.  My frame was cerakoted and I thought maybe that was the issue and the pin would push the cerakote off the metal and get easier to drive.  It didn't.

The pin didn't bend though and I eventually got it into place.  It may not ever come out again though

[timmy75]

OK, thanks, I'll try to do it as you suggested 

I did it by myself. Easy job.
Lower is factory job, I did upper with auto punch.

[timmy75]

one question guys:

If I (hypothetically) want to put factory trigger pin in my pistol...what is the right way (staking) to do it?

[tdogg]

The factory trigger pin isn't staked.  It has a flared end that would need to be reflared to stay put.  When you drive it out, you remove the flare that holds it in place.  I highly recommend the CGW floating trigger pin.

Cheers,
Toby

[no.vale.la.pena]

If I (hypothetically) want to put factory trigger pin in my pistol...what is the right way (staking) to do it?

Firstly I would second Toby's recommendation.  I can't think of a good reason why one would want to reinstall the factory trigger pin.

If you ever have to replace the trigger return spring, the CGW floating pin will come out easily and can be re-used (essentially) indefinitely.  For the factory pin, a new factory pin will likely have to be used on re-installation. 

[timmy75]

I use CGW floating pin in all of my pistols. But, for example, if I want to sell pistol in "as from factory" condition, I would like to put OEM factory trigger pin.

What is proper procedure and how to use a new factory trigger pin with common tools?

[tdogg]

You need two punches with a at least one with a conical tip that fit the diameter of the trigger pin.  You install the trigger pin in the gun.  Support the trigger pin from the opposite side with one of the punches and hammer the flair with the other.  It just needs enough flair to hold it in place without damaging the frame finish.

Cheers,
Toby

[timmy75]

You need two punches with a at least one with a conical tip that fit the diameter of the trigger pin.  You install the trigger pin in the gun.  Support the trigger pin from the opposite side with one of the punches and hammer the flair with the other.  It just needs enough flair to hold it in place without damaging the frame finish.

Cheers,
Toby

thank you.