I Learned Something Today About The P-10 Trigger/Striker Assembly

[Maynard]

A friend and I met earlier today to shoot, we are attending a class next weekend and we wanted to confirm zeroes on our guns at 25 yards.

The plan is to shoot the P-10F which has a wonderful trigger:


The aftermarket parts are the HBI trigger shoe, 4lb striker spring and a Suarez striker. I shot 150 rounds today and had a great range session. The P-10F shot well and once I got home, I tore it down and cleaned it. Full disclosure, I don't clean the interiors of my pistol that often but thought I better clean it and take a look at things before the class. I have the same combination of trigger, spring and striker in other pistols and it's a super combination that leads to a pronounced wall, 4lb break that is very crisp.



Striker came out and there was a good amount of crud in the striker channel. I tidied the striker channel up spotless, cleaned the striker and lubricated the rest of the pistol.

Once re-assembled, I dropped a snap cap in, dry fired and the trigger was terrible, it went from a nice crisp 4lbs to a gritty 6lb trigger. My first carry pistol was 2pin G19 and the striker channel was recommended to be kept dry.

I had some spare springs and strikers to swap around and nothing helped, it was still gritty and just terrible no matter what combination of parts were used. At this point in time after taking a break to have dinner, it dawned on me that some lubrication may be in order.

Some SLIP2000 EWL was added to the striker, the channel and the pistol was re-assembled and test fired. The different was noticeable immediately, much smoother, the wall was back and the break was better but not the same. I changed out the spring cups to Glock cups and it seemed smoother again (I could be imagining that) but no real change in the pull weight.

It's a consistent 5lbs now, crisp and predictable but I've still added 1lb to the pull somewhere and now, striker spring changes seem to have no effect, I can change between the HBI blue and red springs with no change, which means the issue is somewhere in the striker channel possibly.

I believe I learned that the P-10 needs lubrication on the striker, It seemed to have a profound effect but I still have something else going on with the P-10Fs trigger.

I'll grab some larger swabs tomorrow and reclean the channel. If the springs aren't having an effect, something else is impeding the striker travel.

   

[monty_d_33]

Interesting, I don’t do a complete breakdown often cause it’s a pain


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[Maynard]

Interesting, I don’t do a complete breakdown often cause it’s a pain


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I thought it prudent to have a look and while there, tidy things up a bit. In the meantime, I'm learning.   

This is a pistol that initially had issues with the trigger resetting after adding the HBI trigger. I've had it completely apart a couple few times.

[gwes351]

I'm still getting to know my CZs, but there are a few other parts that could affect releasing the firing pin ("striker") - as you know.  I'd look at how much crude may be in those other parts / areas (like trigger bar, disconnector etc).  Again, still learning about CZs - but that's where I'd look if it were a P365, G19, G43 (or other similar striker fired pistol).  Keep us posted

[Maynard]

I'm still getting to know my CZs, but there are a few other parts that could affect releasing the firing pin ("striker") - as you know.  I'd look at how much crude may be in those other parts / areas (like trigger bar, disconnector etc).  Again, still learning about CZs - but that's where I'd look if it were a P365, G19, G43 (or other similar striker fired pistol).  Keep us posted

Without the slide, the trigger is on par with another P-10 that breaks consistently at 4lbs, both pull through at less than 2lbs without the slide.

[Joe L]

There could be something in the striker channel, so, sure, check it again.  I have always run the striker channel dry, no problems.  But the striker doesn't move much during the final trigger pull movement.  The high pressure points are at the disconnector and at the striker face.  So, I would also check the disconnector surface that the trigger bar rides on and make sure it isn't dry.  That and the end of the trigger bar is where the rubbing is taking place, as well as the contact surface at the striker itself on the trigger bar. 

Joe

[M1A4ME]

I know what they say about oiling (well, not oiling) strikers, firing pins, M1A gas plugs, etc., etc., etc. 

Can't help myself.  I always oil moving parts.  Mine still work.

I do believe some oil is better than others.

I do believe that some oil will dry out/get gummy over time if allowed to sit on parts and not be cleaned and re-lubed at intervals.

Trigger pulls/mechanical fit/function is a funny thing.  I had a sweet 3 lb. trigger pull on a SA conversion on one of those CZ75 Compacts with a P01 type frame.  During the conversion/adjustments/trouble shooting (had that issue with the firing pin block lifting arm not resetting) I noticed the trigger bar spring had one leg higher than the other.  At the time I didn't know they were made that way and I "evened" them out so the legs were level.  Put it all back together and just happened to check the trigger pull and it had gone up 1/2 lb.  I kept saying I'd pull that spring back out and put it back like it was and recheck but just never did it.  Little stuff is sometimes noticeable.

Maynard, good luck with your efforts to figure that one out.

[Maynard]

Maynard, good luck with your efforts to figure that one out.

Thank you, It's definitely in the slide where increase in pull weight has occurred.

I swapped the uppers back and forth and the F frame with the C slide and the trigger was good, the F slide and C frame broke at 5lbs, the problem followed the slide.



I had some small paint sponges that worked really well cleaning the striker channel and The F model trigger is breaking at a predictable 4.8lbs with the HBI red spring. It's higher than what it was for some reason but it's all in all a pretty nice trigger where it's at.


Does anyone use the red striker spring in the HBI trigger kit?   Have you had ignition issues? I've only used the blue spring and it's been 100% reliable.

[Hammer Time]

Interesting. I've cleaned the striker channel on both of my P-10s a few times, and haven't noticed any change in pull weight. But following this thread out of curiosity...

[Maynard]

I broke out some moly paste and polished up the channel and striker, went back to the 4lb blue HBI striker spring and have it back to where it was originally. I have no idea what the issue was in the striker channel but it's solved for now.

[Joe L]

Well, if it's fixed, that is all that matters.  I hope it stays that way for a while!  Mine have been very repeatable and reliable, even if I let them sit for a month or two at a time.  And I didn't even like striker guns before the P-10C. 

Joe

[Maynard]

I didn't even like striker guns before the P-10C. 

Joe

There were no intentions here to own one and was offered a great deal on a Gen1. It's been downhill ever since.

 

[Earl Keese]

Striker/channel condition most definitely has an effect on trigger pull with these guns. I participated in a beta test for an aluminum striker housing and it spoiled the trigger pull weight and feel. I always lightly lube the striker in mine, never had an issue. Glad you got it sorted.

[BillG56]

Earl, what lube do use in the striker channel on your gun?  Thanks.

[M1A4ME]

I didn't even like striker guns before the P-10C. 

Joe

There were no intentions here to own one and was offered a great deal on a Gen1. It's been downhill ever since.

Funny how that happens.  The P07 turned into a P09, then another P09, then a CZ85, etc., etc., etc.