P-01 grip screw broke

[downtown0309]

I just bought a used P-01. I took it apart to clean it good and when I installed the grips back on the left side screw head was sticking out more than normal. Took it out and the other side and just tried to put the screw in by itself. It would stop but the right side screw would go all the way through to where you can see the tip come out the back side. I thought maybe a thread or two was messed up so I tried to screw it in passed the point where it stopped and it just broke. Hope this makes sense. Hard to put it in words. I'm getting some new screws and letting a Gunsmith get the screw out as I'm afraid to mess with aluminum. Any thoughts on what the issue was?

[jurek]

That's not an issue. Just weak material / screw. Let gunsmith remove the screw and check the thread. Once is OK, clean it and lube.
I'd recommend to buy good quality screws, ie. from LOK Grips
https://lokgrips.com/cz-gun-grips/cz-75/accessories/t20-torx-grip-screws/
https://lokgrips.com/cz-gun-grips/cz-75/accessories/cz75-hex-head-screws/

[Tok36]

Agreed, likely just a soft scerw. Sounds like you are on the right track OP, a gunsmith should be able to remedy the issue.

[leftoverture]

I would think it's possible the screws are designed to break first so the hole isn't stripped out. I don't know,  just something to think about.

[terhiat]

Like others have said, it's more likely than not just a weak bolt or metal fatigue. I've heard on occasion that some bolts can weaken if they aren't fully installed and then rounds are consistently ran through, but that's extremely rare. Extracting it is easy, just take a smaller drill bit to it but not all the way through.  Add some blue locktite to it, and set the drill in reverse if you don't have a small enough screw to do it with. Once you back it out, you can install a new one that you can buy from multiple sites.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

 You can only remove a fastener and retorque it so many times before it begins to weaken and will break. I like to remove the grips on any of my pistols during the cleaning process so I keep spare grip screws on hand and replace them about the tenth time they are removed to avoid this sort of thing.

[M1A4ME]

Aluminum and steel do not get along.  The threads can build up corrosion.  Learned that a long time ago with aluminum intake manifolds, thermostat housings, distributor hold down bolts and carb screws.  I cheated and used studs in the intak so I never had to take them out and then formagasket on the stud threads.

On you P01 maybe the grip screw wasn't loose.  Maybe the grip wasn't quite aligned right and the front, or back edge was sticking up a little.  Some of my CZ75 type grip screws are "the devil" to get started straight.  On some pistols/grips I find one side is tougher to align that the other and I put it on/in first so I can get my fingers into the frame from the opposite side to push, pull, force the grip into alignment so the screw will thread in straight.  Then I put the easier side on last.

I've not had a screw seize/corrode into the aluminum frame on a P01 Omega but neither are very old and I have this thing for oiling stuff.  I often ut a drop of oil on the screw head and use the oily cloth I wipe parts down with to wipe off the excess.  But some makes it down along the screw to the frame.  Oil does that, just creeps along and gets every where you don't want it and most every place you may need it.  I think that little bit of oil now and then helps fight corrosion of the steel/aluminum at the screw threads, too.

There's a reason JMB put bushings in the 1911 frame for the grip screws.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

There's a reason JMB put bushings in the 1911 frame for the grip screws.

Yes because the frame itself is too thin to thread a screw in and be able to remove it multiple times without stripping. The 1911 bushing design has it's own plethora of issues and anyone who's spent alot of time with 1911's can attest to the stripped bushings, stripped frame holes and such. There's a reason they sell oversized frame taps and bushings for 1911's. There's a reason I only use Challis bushings in my 1911's as well.

[mkd]

downtown0309.    these grip screws are a known issue and been mentioned before. when i install the grip screws i let blue loctite be the resistance to the screw coming loose and not the amount of torque you put on the screw to the lock washer. as you tighten the screw to zero lash check grip movement/slide on the frame and turn the screw in till it just eliminates grip movement and or the screw just starts to have resistance. let the loctite keep the screw in place. 

[M1A4ME]

Can't verify the made in 1917 1911 has the original bushings, but the mid 70's Combat Commander and the Series 80 Government model still do.

Maybe my Mk1 finger/wrist torque sensors are pretty well calibrated.

And, how does the strength of the aluminum frame threads of a P01 compare to the steel frame/threads of the 1911, or the CZ75s?

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

I've removed the grips on my PCR so many times I couldn't even put a number on it. Never had a problem and the threads look as new. I replace the screws at intervals mentioned above. The frame of the alloy framed CZ's is more than twice the thickness of a 1911 frame and a bit thicker than a steel CZ frame in that area. Taking one's time to be sure things are properly aligned before forcing a fastener in goes a long way coupled with not giving it that extra twist that some may think is needed but isn't.

[M1A4ME]

I just looked at that picture (and paid more attention to the screw) and it looks like the threads are pretty shiny, like maybe it had been cross threated a time or two.

Not sure what amount of force is required to break a screw like that off in the frame.

Replacing screws/bolts is a good idea when things get torqued down hard and a lot of force/vibration is part of the work cycle (never had any luck getting maintenance to believe that at work though.) 

I know there's a lot of things I don't (never have thought about) know much about.  Like the grip screw thing on 1911s.  I never broke one.  I never stripped one out.  If it always works well, I don't have any experience fixing it or compensating for it (wish I could say that about a couple of Camaros).

I did a small amount of reading about the 1911 grip screw bushings last night.  Finally found one article on the internet and it stated the reason for the bushings was just that, easier/cheaper/faster to replace bushings than to fix/replace a 1911 frame.

I wonder if that's one of the reasons why the P01's feel so good in my hand (taking on what you said about the frame being thicker than a CZ75 frame), because the grip is a little bit wider?  I know the P01 feels so much better in my hand than the full sized or the Compacts and figured it was the grooves up the front/back of the frame, but maybe it's the width being a little wider as well.

I'll bet most owners never remove the grips anyway.  Most people buy a tool, use it, and spend very little time learning about it and taking care of it.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

I never have put a mic on the frames to check the exact differences but I have always found the grip of the PCR to be more comfortable and hand filling than the steel framed compact. I know the alloy frames are a bit thicker in certain areas vs the steel frames. The dust cover area is definitely thicker on the PCR and the grip screw area is thicker as well.