So far, I'm impressed

[DMY]

I know this has been said several times on this forum and others, but shout out to CGW.  I emailed several questions to CGW and received email responses the following morning on each occasion.  Finally placed my order on Easter evening (April 4th).  Received an email confirmation of my order the next day.  Received my Pro-Package and a few extra parts today (April 8th).  Binge-watched at least 8 YouTube videos and Dr. Atlas's CZ 75 tutorial on CGW's web site 3 to 5 times each.  Wish me luck. 

[Tok36]

May your tuning go well.

[DMY]

Spent the day installing the Pro-Package, light polishing, more light polishing, and installing the steel guide rod with a 14# recoil spring.  I wouldn't say it was easy, but I also wouldn't say it was too hard.  The tutorials on the CGW web site and YouTube videos helped tremendously.  The Pro-Package also came with very clear, written instructions on how to set the adjustable sear and trigger screws.  Working at a leisurely pace from set up to clean up took 6 hours which consisted of the following:

0.5 hour:  set up tools, good lighting, tablet to view videos, get more tools, get different tools.
1.5 hours:  actual time spent installing the Pro-Package.  Includes 20 minutes setting the trigger return spring and slave pin;  30 minutes assembling the sear cage; and 20 minutes starting the pin which holds the firing pin.  The latter took a long time because I gradually increased the size of my hammer to get the new roll pin started w/o scratching my slide. 
1.5 hours:  time spent flipping back and forth between installation videos and polishing videos.
1.5 hours:  light polishing per YouTube videos and tutorial.
0.5 hour:  adjusting the take-up and over-travel screws for the trigger.
0.5 hour:  function test, oil, dry firing, wipe down, admiring.

After taking my time reviewing and re-reviewing the videos while working, I feel pretty confident that I can completely disassemble and re-assemble my SP-01 in about an hour.  I estimate the difficulty level at 6 out of 10 because I had the proper punches, a small table-top vise, and lots of blue tape.  One video accurately mentioned that removing the hammer strut pin was difficult because it is/was staked.  This is true, but as the video mentioned, if you use a metal block on a concrete slab with a proper starter punch, it loosened with 2 good whacks.  I used an old lug nut instead of a metal bench block.  I also used a piece of wood fence board with a hole drilled in it for a bench block for everything except the hammer strut pin. Only had to buy red and green LocTite (already had the blue).  Happy to report that I did not lose any springs, scratch my frame, or have any parts which I forgot to install.  One bit of advice to add.  I used a Kindle-sized tablet to view the videos while working.  A laptop probably would have been better because of the bigger screen.

Plan to test fire it tomorrow or the next.   

[DMY]

If all goes well at the range, my next purchase will be a 10x bushing, F/O front sight, and adjustable rear sight for the SP-01.  Didn't want to drop another couple hundred in addition to the Pro-Package.  I can't help but think that these are also high-quality products like the other CGW products.  Again, a big thanks to Thomas at CGW for prompt responses to my pre-purchase questions.

[DMY]

Put 250+ rounds through my SP-01.  Zero malfunctions, zero FTF, FTE with 5 different reloads using Hi-Tek coated bullets ranging from 124 - 147 grains.  The 12# rebound spring shot a little softer than the 14# spring with my reloads which generally run from 890 - 970 fps.  Zero overtravel and very, very little creep in DA.  As advertised, there is considerably less take up in SA mode. 

I have one question for those who have installed 85C triggers with two adjustable screws in their SP-01 / 75b variants.  Do you install the upper, pre-travel screw with the hex head facing the front or rear of the gun?  I installed it with the hex head facing the front and it functions fine.  However, I have a little concern that, over time, the hex head may develop a burr and make it impossible to adjust or remove.

[Fuzzy Sights]

Installed mine hex in the rear.  Allows for adjustment without having to take the trigger out each time.

JW

[DMY]

Thanks Fuzxy. Out of curiousity, how far does your upper screw extend?  I approximate that 3/4 of the screw extends out of the front of the trigger, leaving veery few threads holding it in. I used blue Loctite for the initial installation.

[George16]

Good job getting it all done without any problems. May I recommend trying an 11# recoil spring. You’ll be surprised how softer your g7n will shoot with your reloads.

[DMY]

George16:  I'm sure you're right. The red 12# spring shoots softer than the 14# spring and was 100% reliable. Have you noticed and wear marks on your lower from using an 11# spring? This was my primary concern with going too light.

[George16]

George16:  I'm sure you're right. The red 12# spring shoots softer than the 14# spring and was 100% reliable. Have you noticed and wear marks on your lower from using an 11# spring? This was my primary concern with going too light.

No, I haven’t noticed any abnormal wear marks from using an 11# spring. My match ammo is Precision Delta 124 Gr bullets and 4.0 Gr of sport pistol for 139-132 PF.

When I used RMR 147 TC bullets loaded with 3.2 -3.3 Gr of sport pistol for about the same PF, the slide was a little sluggish but softer compared to 124 Gr loads.

I like the 124 loads better because the sight comes back quicker for follow up shots.

[mkd]

dmy, bought my first cz a p-01 in 2011 when  i retired and did all the sights,grips,hammers,springs and cgw pro package by myself. hardest part was the sear cage disassembly and reassembly. last year i bought an sp-01 safety model and decided to outfit the new pistol with the mods i did on my first one. the best that worked for me was doing everything on my office desk on a sheet of cardboard and a white bath towel and finding and following the great youtube videos for each part of the alteration. from the disassembly , to the modifications,polishing,sear cage assembly, and reassembly, everything you need to know is available on a video. i found the appropriate video,watched it, and then started it while doing the work and paused or reviewed as i progressed and moved on . i would highly recommend doing it this way and the only difficulty i had was losing the lifter spring twice in the office carpet. found it both times with a magnet. taking the sear apart in a gallon zip lock baggy helps from losing it in the future. after 10 yrs of doing the first it was way easier to follow videos as a newby would do.

[DMY]

MKD:
I agree and did the exact same things which you did, except at my gun cleaning bench (3' x 5' table with really good lighting).  I didn't find the sear cage assembly too hard.  I spent as much or more time trying to get the trigger return spring pushed in far enough to be captured by the slave pin.  I was happy that neither spring shot out even though I also used a one-gallon ziplock bag.  Now I have an extra trigger return spring and two extra springs which go into the sear cage. . . along with all of my original parts.

[DMY]

Second, third, and fourth times - a charm.  Couldn't leave well-enough alone.  Today, I disassembled everything except the sear cage again.  My primary purpose was to reverse the pre-travel hex screw so that the solid end of the screw contacted the receiver (rather than the other way around).  When properly installed, there was much more bite between the threads on the receiver and hex screw, so that was a good thing.  Put everything back together and this time, the trigger return spring was much easier to install since I had already done it once.  Despite using digital calipers to try to measure the amount of screw which extended in front of the trigger, the screw extended too far to allow the trigger to reset once I put it all back together.  So I disassembled everything again, adjusted the pre-travel screw, and put it back together for a third time.  This time, the trigger reset with just the slightest amount of take up before engaging the DA, so I was satisfied with the screw placement.

However, still had time on my hands, so disassembled everything again.  When I first installed the Pro-Package, I was sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper following Dr. Atlas's tutorial.  This time, I took out the Dremmel with a buffer wheel and my trusty bottle of Nu-Finish.  I polished the trigger bar and feed ramp.  I also did a little more sanding of the receiver where the trigger contacts the receiver, sanded the receiver hole where the hammer strut goes, and a did little more sanding of the hammer strut itself.  The fourth assembly went faster than the third.  The action feels really smooth without being too light.  I'm pretty pleased with myself.  I'm sure other, more experienced home-smiths will say my work was no big deal.  The purpose of all of my posts is to encourage those who are intimidated to give it a try.  If you have the right tools, study the videos and tutorials, and take your time, then installation is easy and gratifying.

[Tok36]

   It sounds like you had fun and learned allot while tuning up your CZ. From my perspective, what you have achieved is significant. Along with your aptitude, the thoughtful way that you approached the task is commendable and was likely conducive to the success that you experienced.

Thank you for the detailed posts. May your CZ run flawlessly.

[Fuzzy Sights]

DMY,

Sticks out maybe 1/20th in.  The key to this one is to ensure it resets.  Repeated pushing down on trigger shoe while holding the trigger to the rear several dozen times until I got a solid reset. Then added another 5 degrees of arc to ensue dirt did not gum up the works during a match.  Did not use any thread locker on this project.  So far no issues.

Good luck.

JW