Steel guide rod too tight?

[DMY]

I have a 2019 SP-01 with about 3000 rounds through it. I installed a CGW pro package following Atlas's excellent tutorial, as well as other YouTube vidros. Worked flawlessly.
However, when the CGW steel guide rod is installed with a 12# or 14# CGW spring (red or gray), approximately 10% of my reloads won't go into full battery. The same reloads feed 100% reliably with the original plastic guide rod and flat recoil spring. I know my CGW spring weights are good because some bullets pull out of the case when they tried to feed. Had a nice ring around the bullet indicating a tight crimp, even though the bullet pulled out and got stuck just past the head space.  It happened with my original CZ mags and Mec-Gar mags.
My reload was a MBC 124 gr RN seated to 1.13" with brass from the same lots (Blazer and FC). The cases are not buldged, and do not have any more waist than rounds which fed reliably. I know the easy answer is to use the original guide rod and spring or seat the rounds to a shorter COAL. However, I am curious if I should try to polish the guide rod? My guess is that the guide rod causes the tight lockup to be even more tight, thereby preventing the slide from going into battery. The loaded round is not getting stuck on the feed ramp, which I polished. I do not want to bevel the edges of the barrel lug holes because they do not show uneven (or any) wear and tight lockup is a good thing.
Any thoughts to my rambling problem would be appreciated.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

You need to visit the reloading forum here and read the stickies regarding the plunk test and setting the overall length of your rounds. you have answered your own questions in your above statements and it is your reloads which are the problem 100%. The dead giveaway here is your statement that you have bullets getting stuck and pulling out of the cases. There is nothing wrong with the recoil springs or the guide rod and in fact your reloads are TOO LONG for the short throated CZ chamber and will need to be adjusted to properly chamber. You should absolutely stop using any of those rounds in that gun and segregate them for disassembly. Failure to heed this may result in a round firing that is not fully chambered and a blown out case which could damage the gun and the shooter a well. This can't be stressed enough in that your reloads are not safe. Please visit the reloading section.

[DMY]

Thanks Si.  I don't disagree that the FTF with these reloads and a steel guide rod is a problem, potentially disasterous.  Luckily, a squib rod was readily available.
I did plunk the reloads when I first used this recipe.  Several dozen of this same batch of reloads work 100% with the plastic guide rod.  I have shot several hundred, or perhaps a thousand of this same bullet, load, crimp, and COAL with the plastic guide rod before installing, and after removing, the steel guide rod.  I also verified that they plunked when I first tried this recipe and again after I had the problems.  This is how I narrowed the problem to the steel guide rod.  My thought is that the plastic guide rod flexes a bit when the dust cover, barrel lug, and slide stop are cycling which allows this same load to feed reliably.  Weighing my options, it seems keeping the plastic guide rod is an easier solution than beveling the holes in the barrel lug to slightly loosen the action when cycling.  I was just wondering whether anyone else had a similar problem or any other suggested solution(s). 

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

Thanks Si.  I don't disagree that the FTF with these reloads and a steel guide rod is a problem, potentially disasterous.  Luckily, a squib rod was readily available.
I did plunk the reloads when I first used this recipe.  Several dozen of this same batch of reloads work 100% with the plastic guide rod.  I have shot several hundred, or perhaps a thousand of this same bullet, load, crimp, and COAL with the plastic guide rod before installing, and after removing, the steel guide rod.  I also verified that they plunked when I first tried this recipe and again after I had the problems.  This is how I narrowed the problem to the steel guide rod.  My thought is that the plastic guide rod flexes a bit when the dust cover, barrel lug, and slide stop are cycling which allows this same load to feed reliably.  Weighing my options, it seems keeping the plastic guide rod is an easier solution than beveling the holes in the barrel lug to slightly loosen the action when cycling.  I was just wondering whether anyone else had a similar problem or any other suggested solution(s).

My friend you are not listening. The simple fact is the rounds feed because the factory recoil spring is stronger than what you got from CGW since CZ's are heavily sprung for NATO rounds from the factory. The stronger spring allows the slide to slam the rounds into battery where as the lighter springs are not able to overcome the bullet contacting the rifling and force the slide into battery.
If you have bullets sticking in the bore and need to use a squib rod to remove them your rounds are simply too long for your chamber and you need to start over and revise your seating depth.