Extremely difficult slide movement with SAR K2 45 (reset movement after firing)

[Rorge Retson]

I have yet to get to the range with my new SAR K2 45 C, but in my initial function checking I have run across a perplexing issue.

With an empty chamber, I pull the double action trigger completely.  While holding the trigger back, I attempt to cycle the slide, just as the gun would if I had fired a round and the slide was cycling back.

After moving the slide 1/4 inch or so, it "catches" on something, and it is extremely difficult to get past this point.  If I put a lot of force into it, the slide overcomes this "catch" point and cycles.

My LGS said this is the reset function operating properly.  I asked why it was so difficult when none of my CZs or other clones do this. He pointed to "Made in Turkey" roll mark on the frame.

I wrote to SAR and they said the same thing – that this is the pistol functioning normally, that it is the reset function doing its job.

I'm having a difficult time understanding how this can be normal, when none of my CZs, or other clones (Jericho 941, Tanfoglio Stock III, etc.) experience this issue. 

Is this really normal?  If so, what exactly is happening when the pistol is "catching"?  Can anything be done about it?

[M1A4ME]

Almost sounds like it's the slide forcing the hammer back against the hammer spring/hammer linkage.

Try cocking the hammer first and then pulling the slide back?  Easier?  It's that hammer spring/linkage.  1911's can do the same thing if that firing pin retaining plate isn't beveled and the lower rear edge.

[PPS1980]

That isn't normal in my 6yo K2 but I'd try what  M1A4ME suggested.

[Rorge Retson]

My k245 has no reset feeling upon pulling the slide all the way rearward with the magazine removed.  It pulls all the way to the rear pretty much with the same feeling all the way back whether the hammer is cocked or not.  I'm not sure exactly what you're referring to reset movement after firing means.

Pull the trigger all the way back through its range.  It doesn't matter if you are pulling the trigger through double action (with the trigger all the way down) or single action (with the trigger already cocked), just make sure that after you pull the trigger and the hammer falls, you continue holding the trigger all the way back. 

Now, while still holding the trigger all the way back, move the slide rearward.  This mimics what the slide does right after you pull the trigger with a live round in the chamber – when the force of the fired round pushes the slide back, while you are still holding the trigger back.

When I do this, my slide gets hung up right around the 1/2" point into pulling the slide back. 

It feels like the slide is hitting something metal and stopping, until I push extra hard on the slide to get past this point.  It feels like the slide is hitting something metal and getting stuck.  I can get past this point, but it takes extra force, and there is a definitive "click" (metal on metal) as it goes past getting unstuck.

Like I said, NONE of my other CZ or CZ clone pistols does this.

[hodge]

What happens if you release the trigger and pull back on the slide? Same obstruction?
Have you removed the slide and looked for contact marks under the slide inside the frame?

[Practical Shooter]

I would have taken the gun to the range first before even talking a bout an issue with it.

[Rorge Retson]

What happens if you release the trigger and pull back on the slide? Same obstruction?

No, but this does not replicate the normal operation of the firearm.

Have you removed the slide and looked for contact marks under the slide inside the frame?

Yes, and there are some, but because I am not a gunsmith, I don't know what's normal and what's not.

I would have taken the gun to the range first before even talking a bout an issue with it.

That is not a safe way to address potential issues.  In fact, it is an extremely unsafe way to address them.

[Michael Bolton]

Your symptoms sound alot like a problem I encountered yesterday, but given that you have a new gun I doubt it is the cause.
Still, you might want to take a look at the bottom of the barrel profile hitting something: https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=120869.0

[Bhert213]

Not normal.  My K2 racks smooth.     Can you take the slide off and snap a few pictures?   

[jwc007]

1) Field strip the Pistol, taking the Slide Assembly off of the Frame.
Remove the Barrel and Recoil Spring Guide Rod and Spring from the Slide.

Fully cock the Hammer on the Frame and run the Slide thru the Frame Slide Rails to check for free travel.
Remove the Slide from the Frame.

2) Mount the Barrel on top of the Frame Barrel supports and move the Barrel back and forth to check that the Barrel Underlug has enough clearance to move freely.
If not, then the sides of the Barrel Underlug may need sanding/polishing.

3) Check the Recoil Spring Guide Rod Frame Recess for obstructions.

4) Reassemble Pistol and check Slide Function.

IF none of the above has helped, either contact SAR USA and ship the Pistol to them for service, or seek out the services of a
competent local Gunsmith, familiar with the Cz75 design, and have him look at it.

  I asked why it was so difficult when none of my CZs or other clones do this. He pointed to "Made in Turkey" roll mark on the frame.

Beware of the ignorant, for they too, roam the Earth.