CZ P-07 Hammer half-cock question

[Larry F]

My CZ P-07 uses the Decocker setup.  The decking action works ok, however, the as-cast half-cock ledge on my hammer is poorly formed.  Does anyone know if it can be reshaped (filed) to be a more distinct wall without affecting the action timing?  Thks, Larry

[Claymore504]

Not sure what you mean by porrly shaped. If it functions as should then you are good to go. The fast is the stock hammers are MIM and they do not take well to "reshaping". If you are not happy with the hammer, get a Cajun Gun Works one. They are very nice quality.

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

As stated above if it functions as it should nothing need be done to it. Whether you have the decocker installed or the safety changing the geometry of the safety notch is asking for trouble. The safety notch has no effect in any way on sa/da trigger pull so what would be the point?

[Larry F]

What trouble?  The as-cast face of the hammer rebound/intercept notch is rough, shallow, and the edge is rounded.  I'd like to square it up it it doesn't affect the action's timing which seems to be pretty sensitive to changes. 

This is my first CZ pistol and I've gone thru a real learning experience getting the Double and Single actions where I want them. 

The P07 design looks to have evolved from the CZ 52 which had Decocker problems where the decockker would malfunction and the hammer would miss the intercept notch - not a problem here since this model has a firing pin safety - but why not clean the rebound notch up if it's an easy change - a CGW hammer is an overkill.  Thks, Larry

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

The P-07 is in no way kin to the 52 and they are TOTALLY different actions. If you have not handled a pistol with the CGW hammer then your opinion as overkill is unfounded. You seem bent on reshaping the safety notch so go for it, it won't change timing in any way but if the sear fails to catch it and the trigger is still pressed rearward the gun will fire.

[Larry F]

I appreciate your input as it's obvious you are familiar with the design and peculiarities and I'll leave the hammer alone.  This is a used pistol I acquired last fall and set about trying to make it function better.  I've got it functioning pretty well right now and just tweaking loose ends. 

I/ve gone thru the polishing and part changes recommended on the CZ Forums.  The DA pull weight is at 7 #'s and the SA pull weight has stayed under 3.5 #'s thru several sear spring changes.  The SA feel as the sear releases is quite a bit firmer compared to where I started.  I'm now using the CGW's .020 wire diameter spring will be trying their stiffer .022 wire and new .024 wire springs to see if I can firm the feel up a little more before I get into too much trouble.  I have an old Sig P6 pistol that went thru an upgrading on and have a firm (but not to a reworked 1911 level) SA trigger feel at a 3.75 # trigger pull weight and would like to get closer to that sharper/firmer feel as the sear releases if possibile. 

I take your CGW hammer comment seriously and am aware of it's performance improvement but haven't reached that point yet in my tinkering and may not considering where I'm at now function-wise and the real market value of this pistol regardless of what's been done to it.

Regarding your CZ 52 and P07 comment, I suggest you take a closer look at the frame's internal part design similarities - the slides are way different but the frame internals not so much.  Again, thanks for your constructive input.  Larry

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

Regarding your CZ 52 and P07 comment, I suggest you take a closer look at the frame's internal part design similarities - the slides are way different but the frame internals not so much.  Again, thanks for your constructive input.  Larry

I have as I owned 3 CZ 52's. Completely different design in that the 52 is a roller lock up vs the P-07's tried and true browning style lock up. The frame action is still different on the 52 by far than the P-07 and the decocker on the 52 was NEVER safe even when new in production. I had those 52's years ago when they could be had for under $100 and surplus ammo was cheap.

[Larry F]

I stand corrected.  Thks,  Larry

[Born2vette]

Be very careful, I am not familiar with the P07 but on decocker CZ (not omega), there is only one hammer hook vs 2 with a manual safety.  I would consult someone who really knows CZ pistols before modifying anything to do with the sear on these.

[Larry F]

Thanks.  I learned my first lesson about how sensitive a sear change can be early as I started trying upgrading my used first generation P07.  The guys responding here know their CZ stuff, but aren't really answering my specific question. 

All I looking for from this posting is to specifically understand what dressing the face of the rebounding hammer intercept notch (ledge) the sear sits in when in the decock position will do.  I assumed probably nothing but at worst the hammer might catch on it before striking the firing pin (as it does when the decocking lever is activated).   

I noticed that the sear had quite of side to side motion and got a CGW sear pin to reduce it.  Then blued the sear and hammer faces and found the face on the sear wasn't square with the hammer and dressed the leading edge squaring it as the sear releases.  Caused the hammer to rock back as the trigger was pulled in the SA mode plus I now had a hitch and click in the trigger's motion.  Took a talk with Dave at CGW and an larger OD roller to correct.  Thks, Larry

[SI VIS PACEM PARRABELLUM]

Plain and simple sure you can try to dress up the decock notch on the hammer but there's no performance advantage what so ever. Maybe it works out perfectly and you feel you got what you were after and worst case you wreck the hammer and have to buy another one at which point you'll be back at square one on the trigger work you've already done.

[Larry F]

You're right about no performance improvement will be gained.  I thought cleaning up the face of the ledge might make the gun a little safer if I dropped it and it landed on the hammer. 

I did consider much metal removal might change the trigger bar's starting point in the double action mode slightly which would change how it fits up against the disconnector wing and change the action timing a little - thought I had a little cushion here since I'd already added a larger OD roller previously and a slight change could be tolerated.  Also, a pinhole might surface since the hammer is a sintered part, and lastly, in the end switch to a better performing CGW hammer and have to re-time the action a 2nd time.  What I'll do now is leave the hammer rebound notch/ledge as-is per your advice.
 
What I expected/hoped to get from experienced people was what would probably happen.  I know my way around rifles and shotguns but don't have much pistol (and no CZ) experience.  However, I'm decent in basic geometry, 4 bar linkages and kinetic motion and fair in problem solving and appreciate your input.  Thks,  Larry