SP-01 Manual Safety Issue?

[mayoroco]

I recently had my original trigger changed out and I think it may need additional attention. I haven’t had the gun very long (just a couple months) but I could swear that before the new trigger was installed the safety lever couldn’t be moved to the ‘on’ position unless the hammer was cocked. Since the trigger change the lever can now be moved as if it’s going to engage the safety with the hammer down. I can still pull the trigger and it will fire. If I cock the trigger and THEN move the safety lever to the ‘on’ position it will engage the safety and the gun will not fire.

I’m new to semi auto guns and not a gunsmith. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
-dave

[Lock-n-load]

Cajun gunworks hammer upgrade does that, they advise not to put safety on with hammer not cocked or damage could result


Once your installation is complete, your manual safety will operate differently with the new high-performance CGW parts.  All high-performance hammers retime the action by changing the sear geometry.  Once all parts and springs are installed, your manual safety will operate as follows:

With the hammer down, the manual safety can be applied “up”
With the hammer at half-cock, the manual safety can be applied “up”
With the hammer at full-cock, the manual safety can be applied “up”, but the hammer cannot fall with a firm squeeze of the trigger
Please note the only time the manual safety should be applied regardless of what parts are being used, is when the hammer is at full cock.  The manual safety function cannot be changed or altered when using a performance hammer.  The manual safety should only be applied “up” or on when the pistol is fully cocked in the single-action mode.  Never apply the safety up with the hammer fully lowered.  Do not attempt to use the DA with the manual safety applied in the “up” or on position.

[M1A4ME]

Did you have the trigger changed?  Or the hammer changed?

[mayoroco]

Both

[mayoroco]

Thank you @Lock-n-Load. That’s great information!

[double-d]

.

Note to self--------
Never (I mean NEVER) modify something without knowing all the pros/cons and possible effects associated.

[M1A4ME]

The back of the sear fits into a notch in the hammer. 

There's a cam lobe on the left side safety shaft.  It rotates forward (and out from under the front of the sear) when you move the safety to the FIRE position.  It rotates rearward and under the front of the sear when you rotate the safety to the SAFE position.  It's got to be a tight enough fit between the cam lobe and the sear to keep the sear from moving when you pull the trigger.

The factory triggers have a deep notch in the hammer for the sear to sit in.  That allows the front of the sear to rise more so the cam lobe on the safety shaft can move under it. 

The aftermarket hammers have a shallow notch the back of the sear sits in - one reason they have a nice crisp trigger pull. 

Due to the shallow notch in the hammer means the sear doesn't drop  down as much in the back when in the notch and the front doesn't come up as far and the cam lobe on the safety won't fit under the front of the sear like it did before the hammer was replaced. 

On my first hammer replacement I had the safety out/stoned metal off the cam lobe and back in a couple dozen times trying to get it just right.  After that I bought the CGW adjustable sear and used it for a quick finish to the hammer replacement job.

There may be a difference in aftermarket hammers that result in fit/function issues, too.

If I got any of that wrong (you old CZ gurus) be sure to speak up and straighten me out so I don't stay confused.

[mayoroco]

I appreciate everyone’s feedback and info on this.

Thanks a bunch

[M1A4ME]

Two hammers.  P07 hammers I think.  Top one is factory, bottom one is (again, I think) CZ Custom.  Notice the top notch on each.  See how shallow/short the top notch is on the aftermarket hammer.  Reduces the amount the trigger has to move the sear to release the hammer (also makes it smoother).



An Omega system is not the same as the CZ75 system but the process of pulling the trigger to move the sear to release the hammer is similar.

[Sulpgnir]

FWIW, race hammer+sear (with set screw) vs OEM hammer+sear.

OEM hammer cams back before dropping.  Race hammer has almost eliminated camming.

The custom sear with set screw makes sure that the safety can be properly engaged.

[M1A4ME]

 Sulpgnir, great pictures.  Much better than mine and easier to see/understand the explanation.

[gunzip]

Like M1A4ME said.

Great pictures.  Thanks

[Sulpgnir]

Sulpgnir, great pictures.  Much better than mine and easier to see/understand the explanation.

Like M1A4ME said.

Great pictures.  Thanks

My tuning/polishing/upgrading jobs would probably go a lot faster if I didn't stop to take pictures 
With so much I've learned from this forum, I am just happy that I can contribute in some way.

Cheers,

[M1A4ME]

Sulpgnir, great pictures.  Much better than mine and easier to see/understand the explanation.

Like M1A4ME said.

Great pictures.  Thanks

My tuning/polishing/upgrading jobs would probably go a lot faster if I didn't stop to take pictures 
With so much I've learned from this forum, I am just happy that I can contribute in some way.

Cheers,

That's one of the qualities of good to be on forums - people sharing information and helping other members.