Looking for updated scale recommendations.

[Davehb]

Been testing scales that came with kit.
No good, in my book.
They will work to within 3-4tenths of grain.
Started looking and reviews are varied.
Found thread here about it but it’s a few years old.
Thinking rather go with manual scales.


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[bang bang]

Been testing scales that came with kit.
No good, in my book.
They will work to within 3-4tenths of grain.
Started looking and reviews are varied.
Found thread here about it but it’s a few years old.
Thinking rather go with manual scales.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

welcome

Sorry, dont know what you have/had.

But i use the KISS Principle.   I know some people want fancy, but thats fine, there are different solutions for things.

I go with old school.  No batteries to use, forget or worry to have.  Mine works 24/7/365 as long as i do my part.

i have been and still use a RCBS 1010.   Been doing so ever  since i started reloading many many years ago.

YMMV

good luck

[Davehb]

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welcome

Sorry, dont know what you have/had.

But i use the KISS Principle.   I know some people want fancy, but thats fine, there are different solutions for things.

I go with old school.  No batteries to use, forget or worry to have.  Mine works 24/7/365 as long as i do my part.

i have been and still use a RCBS 1010.   Been doing so ever  since i started reloading many many years ago.

YMMV

good luck

Thank for that number. Put me on right track.
that’s what it used to have with my first kit.
I couldn’t remember.
Made by ohaus.
Trying to see if can find one in stock now.


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[Joe A.]

Prior to 2011, I had 2 electronic scales and 3 balance beam scales that was lost in a tornado to looters. Couple of years later I ordered a set of 1010 scales not knowing that during that time they were made in China.

They would not zero without shimming one end. I finally decided I would either fix it or break it. I took the tray that holds the pan apart. It was filled with lead shot. I checked the level of table ( it was level ) and then I leveled the scale. I removed and added shot back attempting to get a perfect zero but the shot was too large. So I started adding smaller shot and I got a perfect zero with a level scale.

Using check weights, it is perfect to the tenth of grain all the way out except at 10 grains it is off 1/10 grain off no matter how I “slice” it. I can live with that. My 1010 scales now works great.

I believe RCBS later moved the manufacturing to Mexico and quality was a lot better than the ones made in China.

[nkresho]

I run the creedmoor sports electronic scale lately. Ive been really happy with it so far. Calibrates in maybe 30 seconds and holds zero well for me.  Does grains to the hundredths.  Sits next to my progressive so I can check periodically.

https://www.creedmoorsports.com/product/creedmoor-reloading-scale-trx-925-precision/creedmoor_sports_brand

It sits in a unique price point under the lab grade high end and the cheapo electronic ones. In my honest opinion, the price is totally worth it if you are looking for that extra decimal place.

I used to run a slightly modified rcbs ohaus model (5-10 model). Knife edged and polished the fulcrum and sharpened and blackened the indicator tip. Still got it, just never use it.

[Wobbly]

Does grains to the hundredths. 

You mean, it has a readout screen that shows 2 digits to the right of the decimal.
• Without an apothecary scale, you have no idea if it's correct to 2 decimal places.
• Since no load data goes to that extreme, what is the purpose ?

[Wobbly]

Been testing scales that came with kit.
No good, in my book.
They will work to within 3-4tenths of grain.
Started looking and reviews are varied.
Found thread here about it but it’s a few years old.
Thinking rather go with manual scales.

• Your better scales are and forever will be American-made balance beam type, similar to the Ohaus 505 (aka RCBS 505) and Dillion Eliminator. Certainly, there are others in that family that meet all the same requirements. These all pivot on gem stones with knife edges and read in 1/10th grain increments on the minor poise. Magnetic dampening helps. This is the basic scale you should own and check all your other scales by. At their core these depend upon and are made operational by gravity. If gravity ever gives up, then you have much larger issues than your scale not working.

• There are hobbyist balance beams and there are some joke balance beams. Simply being a balance beam does not make a scale accurate or repeatable. And those are the main 2 features you are looking for.

• I own and use electronic (aka digital) scales too. But I also regularly check and calibrate them using my balance beam. Because, in spite of all their flash and whiz-bang gadgetry, they also have numerous failure modes that will allow them to look you straight in the face and lie to you without giving any hint of remorse. And these failures can be permanent or intermittent. There is no way to know or tell when or why these failures occur. And THAT is the Number 1 problem with electronic scales.

Fun, YES. Fast, YES. Fallible, DOUBLE YES !

"Everything we do in reloading is to control the chamber pressure". If you believe that, then you are trusting your life and limb to your manual and your scale. Therefore, you should not be playing games with your Primary tools.

Just my 2 cents.

[nkresho]

Does grains to the hundredths. 

You mean, it has a readout screen that shows 2 digits to the right of the decimal.
• Without an apothecary scale, you have no idea if it's correct to 2 decimal places.
• Since no load data goes to that extreme, what is the purpose ?

It'll read single grains of varget (i know big grains) but still.  It's far more accurate when compared to all the standard digitals out there that read to the tenth.

https://ultimatereloader.com/2021/12/21/new-trx-925-0-1-grain-scale-from-creedmoor-sports/  here's a great review and mirrors my findings.

I, personally, prefer to do an average of ten or so powder drops on my progressive to see where it is.  I do this every 200 or so rounds to make sure i'm not drifting.  Averaging with that additional decimal place lets me get a good handle on whether i'm at the higher end or the lower end of where i want to be.  I'm using a polished up hornady case-activated drop with the micrometer insert. 

My standard load is 3.4 of power pistol. I loaded and shot a little over 22,000 of these last year.  For me, I need to make minor power factor and I know that 3.3 will not meet it (consistently on chrono) for the bullets and OAL i use.   I use 3.40 as my absolute floor and typically see a variation of about 0.02-0.03 up or down with my powder measure.  So I like to drop it at an average of 3.43.  This keeps me as low as i can go without risking dropping below the PF i want to hit. 

I'm also accounting for the thinner brass cases with a bit more volume here, so on the lower end I chrony with the blazer brass or RMR-branded cases and see less pressure (and velocity) from them.  The thicker walled cases with more of an internal taper (CBC and the like) will yield slightly higher PF.

I'm picky about being as low as possible because i really prefer the feel at the lower end.  The dot jump and return to target is just that much better and my muscle memory is tuned to that load at this point.  I can honestly feel the difference between 3.4 and 3.5 grains.  I've gone back to back magazines of each and i print closer holes shooting fast with the former.

On top of that, I ran a pretty big node analysis on my .308 a few months back and developed a load of varget that gave me the lowest ES as well as the smallest group.  A single grain of that rabbit food powder was about as accurate as i wanted it.  My rcbs will read the single grain so i wanted my digital to give similar performance.

I went down a rabbit hole at one point and started considering the higher end lab grade scales to get this level of performance.  I really did just want that second decimal place and was ready to pay for it.  I'm glad i moaned and groaned at the idea of spending over 1000 on a scale.  Eventually i read enough reviews on the creedmoor and went for it.

Here's the one i relied on for years before making the switch.







Added a little video here showing the Creedmoor's ability to sense a single kernel of Varget.

https://youtu.be/owEEr0wac0M

[lewmed]

 My two most accurate scales are my old RCBS 5-10 and a Gem Pro 250. The RCBS is accurate to a 1/10 of a grain and the Gem Pro will measure 1/100 of a grain.

[david s]

I've used the RCBS (Ohaus) 5-10 scale for going on 40 plus years now. The 5-10 scale uses the 10-10's balance beam (thread adjustable 1/10 grain) on the 5-10 scales base. It's a pretty decent scale but not to the 1/100th grain. I doubt there is a beam scale that is. I used a second-generation Dillon electrical scale for around twenty years that suddenly and pretty consistently began weighing about three tenths heavy by both check weights and comparison to my RCBS. The Dillon I now consider useless. I'll probably get another electric scale, but it will invariably be checked by another. Oddly enough I purchased the Dillon after knocking my RCBS off its shelf, basically dropping it, which is exactly what you are supposed to avoid with beam scales. I bought the Dillon thinking I had damaged the RCBS scale but the two agreed to with in the 1/10th grain variable so haven't worried since. After 20 years it was the Electric scale that went off.

[bang bang]

Does grains to the hundredths. 

You mean, it has a readout screen that shows 2 digits to the right of the decimal.
• Without an apothecary scale, you have no idea if it's correct to 2 decimal places.
• Since no load data goes to that extreme, what is the purpose ?

in my engineering classes, this was called "Sig-figs" or Significant figures.

its something that people that use math/machines/tools should readup on. 

but its up to the user.

[bang bang]

My standard load is 3.4 of power pistol. I loaded and shot a little over 22,000 of these last year.  For me, I need to make minor power factor and I know that 3.3 will not meet it (consistently on chrono) for the bullets and OAL i use.   I use 3.40 as my absolute floor and typically see a variation of about 0.02-0.03 up or down with my powder measure.  So I like to drop it at an average of 3.43.  This keeps me as low as i can go without risking dropping below the PF i want to hit. 

i do the same but also for the set point of my powder dropper.   

reloading is about averages and consistency.   For those that choose to weight each and every load, brass, primer, bullet and so forth, thats fine for them and their purpose.   Im just reloading for economy for the most part and averaging is working for me.

[Davehb]

Thanks for welcomes and replies.
Lot has been discontinued.
1010, 505….
Anyone tried the rcbs m1000?
Currently contemplating it.
Seems to have best mentions in forums.


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[nkresho]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266479688888?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7lf0jkwYRKS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=dRaE-Y53R0W&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

https://www.ebay.com/itm/145400955047?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nNVhcQgTSUO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=dRaE-Y53R0W&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I'd definitely keep an eye on ebay for whichever you're into if the older ones catch your eye.

M1000 looks a little expensive but has awesome reviews.

[Davehb]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266479688888?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7lf0jkwYRKS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=dRaE-Y53R0W&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

https://www.ebay.com/itm/145400955047?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nNVhcQgTSUO&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=dRaE-Y53R0W&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I'd definitely keep an eye on ebay for whichever you're into if the older ones catch your eye.

M1000 looks a little expensive but has awesome reviews.

I’m looking at few 10-10’s now.

Couple of the Sellers aren’t in any hurry to answer my questions.


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