CZ 24 firing pin

[fredbaloy]

I am having issues with the firing pin in my CZ 24 . It ira les freely but will not strike the cartridge hard enough to fire. I am wondering if it is worn down or broken off the smaller end. Hopefully someone has a pin that they could measure and let me know how long the overall pin should be.

[Wobbly]

You should be able to do that yourself by disassembling the slide and then using your fingers to achieve maximum firing pin protrusion through the face into the chamber area. That dimension typically falls between 1 and 1.5mm. It should repeatedly ignite the primers without piercing them. Under magnification, the firing pin tip should be rounded, with no sharp edges.

[fredbaloy]

Would a week firing spring pin cause the pin to not return fully on the hammer end?

[rdcinhou]

A weak spring could cause that.
I assume you were the one who emailed me to measure my CZ24 firing pin?

I did and here's a photo with measurements.



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[Wobbly]

Would a weak firing spring pin cause the pin to not return fully on the hammer end?

It very well could, but the far more likely cause is built-up smut in the firing pin channel caused by years of never cleaning the pin or recess it rides in. Little pieces of brass from primer blow-outs and particles of unburned powder can always set up home in that channel.

Then, as a general rule, all the springs should be replaced after 15-20 years.

[rdcinhou]

I could have sworn I saw a post this morning asking for CZ24 magazine dimensions.

Thinking of a new way to convey the subtleties of the design, I propose that we do this in future...trace on ruled graph paper, and critical dimensions and include a photo.



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[fredbaloy]

Thanks for the valuable information on the firing pin. After taking some measurements and looking at the drawing I have concluded that my pin is about 2mm short on the chamber side and 1.5 on the hammer end. Again, thanks to all who responded. My plan is to turn a new pin to the specs on the drawing provided by Rdcinhou.

[Duke Nukem]

I can see the chance of a firing pin tip breaking or wearing down, but how would the other end get shorter?

[Wobbly]

Thanks for the valuable information on the firing pin. After taking some measurements and looking at the drawing I have concluded that my pin is about 2mm short on the chamber side and 1.5 on the hammer end.

Simply making a new pin from the dimensions in the drawing IS A VERY BAD IDEA !!

Let me explain. You are looking at this issue through "2024 eyes". In 2024, ALL machined objects are exactly the same and this is because of the advent of computer controlled machine tools. In 2024, you can order one part from the Czech Republic, one part from Kansas, and a third part off Amazon and they will all assemble nicely and proabably work with absolutely no "hand fitting". That is NOT the case for a CZ24 made when 1980? 1970? 1960?

Back in those days machine tools were hand operated, and so 2 fully trained machinists, who have both worked at the CZ factory for 30 years, who stand within 10 feet of each other, and who may in fact be identical twin brothers, may each drill the channel for the CZ24 firing pin to different specs. One to 35.9mm deep and the other to 36.2mm deep.

Also back in those days, the assemblers (to make up for these variations in manufacture) had a selection of 5 or 6 different firing pins, and they would try several during assembly to ensure the fit and function were correct.


So you could spend $200-$300 making a new firing pin to the drawing above, and it just as easily NOT function. Maybe it would not reach far enough to ignite the primer. OR, just as easily it could reach too far and puncture the primer, thus burning off the firing pin tip in a matter of 20 rounds.

When you work on a machined part made "back then", it is up to the repairer (that's YOU) to observe, THINK and ACT like a person from that same era. That means you need to do as I suggested in my previous post. Clean the parts, and then assemble the parts and then by trial and error OBSERVE what's going on. The 2024 version of "Plug & Play" on this vintage gun is NOT going to work simply because it did not exist when this gun was made.

Here's another way to think about it.... You got a favorite song on your Spotify play list. Cool ! Now go play that song directly on your year 2000 CD player, or your 1990 cassette player, or your 1980 record player, or your 1970 8-track player, or your dad's 1930 hand crank Victrola. It can't be done. The part HAS to match the technology of the era. That, my friend, is what you're completely missing.

And just like trying to add an Ethernet port to the 1970's 8-track player, you may run the risk of completely destroying your vintage firearm when you try to execute your version of "2024 Plug & Play".

All the best.

[fredbaloy]

Thanks for your post on why not to make a new firing pin for the 1937 CZ 24 pistol. I do disagree with one point in your reasoning. Turning a firing pin on a lathe that is older than the gun itself is no different in 2024 than it would have been in 1937. It is still the same process . The only thing that is different is the skill of the machinist.  A machinist today May have more experience than the person who made the first pin. I am guessing these were mass produced and then fitted to the specific pistol during assembly. Just my thoughts. Looking forward to your response.

[Wobbly]

Thanks for your post on why not to make a new firing pin for the 1937 CZ 24 pistol. I do disagree with one point in your reasoning. Turning a firing pin on a lathe that is older than the gun itself is no different in 2024 than it would have been in 1937. It is still the same process . The only thing that is different is the skill of the machinist.  A machinist today May have more experience than the person who made the first pin. I am guessing these were mass produced and then fitted to the specific pistol during assembly. Just my thoughts. Looking forward to your response.

You are confusing manufacturing method with fit & function.

I never said that a new firing pin could not be made. Of course it can. And it could be made using a computer controlled CNC lathe, or a hand operated metal lathe, or anything in between. Heck I could turn it this afternoon on my 1957 Logan !



What I'm saying is that as the new part is made, some of the length dimensions need to be more generous so that the part can be "fitted" to the slide. As I previously noted, there is a specific range which the firing pin must protrude from the bolt face in order to function. Too much is just as bad as too little. And the same applies to the tip exposed to the hammer. And since adding metal is much harder than subtracting metal, dimensions at each end need to be increased... And only when the part is tried in the slide can they shortened to a length that will allow the part to function properly. This then is the "fitting" step I'm referring to.

This would be the case even if you had copies of the original CZ factory firing pin drawings. Because NO ONE can be sure that firing 40,000 rounds over the decades-long life of the pistol didn't make the firing pin channel longer... simply due to wear.


I'm not fussing at you. You can obviously do what you want to do, and proabably will. I'm simply trying to give you the benefit of my 40 year career as a degreed Mechanical Engineer designing machined parts.

[fredbaloy]

Thank you. Problem solved. On to the next one. Turned and “ fitted” on my 1908 American Tool Works Lathe. Thanks again for your imput.