It looks bad, really bad!!!
I used to use the B-8C target with the red dots, which is black out to the 9 ring, but switched to the B-6C target to get a larger bullseye out to the 8 ring. The Burris dot is not quite as crisp as the Holosun, so I use the larger bull target with the guns that have the Burris sight. I can use the smaller bullseye target with the Holosun, but I am not sure that is optimum either.
The toughest thing to do in bullseye or long range pistol shooting is to "accept the wobble". I struggle with that still even after 10 years experience. The shooter cannot hold the gun perfectly steady, especially single hand standing at 25 and 50 yards like in bullseye matches. But I found that I can't hold the gun perfectly steady from a rest when shooting at 100 and 200 yards either.
What happens to beginners including myself is that the shooter tries to time the shot and tries to release the shot when the dot is "just perfectly" centered while it is wobbling. The result is a jerked trigger and the shot hitting way outside the bullseye. So, what experience will teach the shooter is that it is better to learn to hold the gun as steady as possible, but just concentrate on as perfect a trigger pull as possible and let the dot wobble around, hopefully inside the bullseye (at 25 and 50 yards). If the shooter can do that, the hits will be better on average than they will be if the shooter has erratic forced trigger pulls. The best tool to improve one's trigger pull is a MantisX device and dry fire in my opinion. The best way to learn to hold the gun steady is dry fire from a shooting stance while using a tiny aim point on a wall. I think.
Back to 100 and 200 yards. Even from a wrist or palm rest, the dot moves. I attribute this to heartbeat and muscle micro twitches while gripping the gun. With the black 8 ring target, one can see if the dot is centered because the dot is smaller than the black bullseye, but just barely. This can be bad at times, like when I haven't shot in a while, because the tendency to try to center the dot perfectly returns. I think it might even be better to have a larger aim point even at 100 yards, to make it mentally easier to accept the wobble and to avoid forcing the shot or just giving up on a shot and pulling the trigger when one knows the gun isn't aimed right. Keep in mind that there is also some eye strain, at least in my case, associated with trying to center a 4-5" dot on an 8" black circle at 100 yards with one eye. Perhaps even a square black box 12" wide and 2" thick would be a better aim point at 100 yards. I've had good results from a large square box aim point at 200 yards, for example.
Note that a red dot sight rated at 3moa dot size is not necessarily 3" at 100 yards. These dots are not "crisp" and don't need to be for their intended purpose, which is NOT 100 and 200 yard targets. The 3 moa Burris dot sight looks to be 4" plus at 100 yards and the 2 moa Holosun dot looks more like 3" plus at 100 yards. That needs to be considered when choosing the aim point/target size. The worst size aim point is one that is equal to or slightly smaller than the dot sized, such that the dot completely covers the aim point and then one doesn't know where the gun is aimed. Bigger is better, as in 2-3 times the dot diameter, or a little larger than I'm using now. I need to experiment some more with a larger target after I get back to more consistency over the next few weeks. It will be easier to accept some wobble if the dot stays in a larger target area is my thinking.
Thanks for the question.
Joe L
