Author Topic: New Project! RAMI #2 FULL BUILD THREAD PICTURE HEAVY!!  (Read 1806 times)

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Offline terry mc

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Re: New Project! RAMI #2 FULL BUILD THREAD PICTURE HEAVY!!
« Reply #15 on: June 26, 2024, 10:17:08 AM »
I agree on the options on finish.

I already have an idea, but not going to share until I pull the trigger.
Terry Mc
Gloss Blue CZ-97BE-SAO

CZ Scorpion CZ Custom Trigger Pack, Streamlight TLR-1HL Primary Arms MD-ADS

CZ75 Shadow 9mm SAO

CZ RAMI 9MM

CZ TS2 Blue

SAR K12 Sport X

Offline terry mc

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Re: New Project! RAMI #2 FULL BUILD THREAD PICTURE HEAVY!!
« Reply #16 on: June 29, 2024, 06:34:49 PM »
So today started on blowing apart the gun.


BEFORE WE MOVE FORWARD A LITTLE LEGAL NOTICE HERE,
I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL GUNSMITH, OR TRAINER IN GUNSMITTHING SO ANY WORK YOU PERFORM ON YOUR GUN IS STRICTLY AT YOUR OWN RISK.
THAT SAID i HAVE DONE ABOUT A DOZEN TRIGGER JOBS ON CZ75 DESIGN GUNS AND HAVE ALWAYS HAD SAFE AND FULLY FUNCTIONAL GUN THAT IS MUCH MORE ENJOYABLE AND RELAIBLE AFTER WORK Is PERFORMED.
Enough legalese.

I did the usual disassembly of the gun.
do safety check,
cock hammer and press slide until the second line of the cocking serations lines up with the edge of the frame.

Tap the slide stop out and remove the slide.

Today I am working on the slide specifically and these are things that I think add a little bit of Luxury feel to the gun.
These mods do little to lighten the trigger pull or increase accuracy but they make the racking of the slide SO MUCH nicer.
And it makes the firing pin channel smoother for lower firing pin drag.


So to start we remove the firing pin roll pin.
I use an 1/8 drift pin and I use a light hammer to do all my gunsmith work.
If I remember correctly it is an 8 oz Estwing.


The roll pin is in the cocking serrations about the 3rd line back.
Note here the white block you see is a CZ Custom smithing block, it is not necessary but it makes removing pins out of the gun easier.


I leave the drift pin in the slide and place my thumb over the firing pin in the firing pin notch (where the hammer strikes)
I remove the drift pin and depress the firing pin block and the firing pin will press against my thumb.
Now I can remove the firing pin and them the firing pin block.

My firing pin had some surface rust which was no surprise since I could see some on the head of the firing pin when I was cleaning the gun.

If I was reusing this pin I would polish it using a hand drill. And 3000 grit sandpaper. You will see an example later.

Since the pin had rust I know that I want to do a basic polish of the firing pin bore.
It will sound silly but I use a Q tip chucked up in a drill and cover it with a rubbing compound.

Then i run it up the bore while running the drill at high speed.
It will not fully polish it since it flexes too much but will give a decent cleaning and a very light polish.




« Last Edit: June 29, 2024, 08:07:58 PM by terry mc »
Terry Mc
Gloss Blue CZ-97BE-SAO

CZ Scorpion CZ Custom Trigger Pack, Streamlight TLR-1HL Primary Arms MD-ADS

CZ75 Shadow 9mm SAO

CZ RAMI 9MM

CZ TS2 Blue

SAR K12 Sport X

Offline terry mc

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Re: New Project! RAMI #2 FULL BUILD THREAD PICTURE HEAVY!!
« Reply #17 on: June 29, 2024, 07:15:30 PM »
Once the firing pin bore is cleaned/polished I do the same for the firing pin block.
Less friction here increases reliability and safety of the gun.

So here is the Luxury Part.

I do polish the slide rails.
PLEASE READ CAREFULLY POLISH, NOT CUTTING THEM.
For this I used ONLY 3000 grit wet dry sandpaper. Not 200 not 400 1200 etc.......

I DO NOT WANT TO CHANGE THE DIMENSIONS AT ALL.

I always use something like a file or benchtop to maintain a square edge to the slide.
Mine was very dirty when I bough the gun and showed a little rust on the rails.

I focus a lot on the bottom of the rails for a reason.
Your trigger bars uses this surface as a cam surface.
The bottom of the rail is used for the trigger reset function.
So the smoother this is the less the trigger bar will drag on it once the trigger bar is polished as well.
Which will be soon.
See the notches in this picture here. It has already been polished in this shot but I dont have any prior to polishing for these camming notches.


The sides of the rails themselves I typically wrap my sandpaper around a file, (in this case a triangular file) and make sure I run it flat to the surface.

The camming notches are more difficult and I find it easier just to use my finger to polish them with the sandpaper.
The smoother these are the better the movement of the trigger bar during reset.


The bottom of the rails are actually really easy,
My trick is to lay 3000 grit sand paper on my work bench and hang it over the edge of the bench,
Then I take the slide with the muzzle end toward me, and the hammer end over the bench.
Remember the guide rod hang down so you have to have the guide rod hole over the edge of the bench.
Then I will move the slide forward and back in the same direction as when it is racking in the gun.
This not only polishes it but it also polishes it in the direction of the racking action which is always best.


The next area to be addressed is the center rail.
Have you ever noticed as you rack the slide, that you can feel multiple increases in the effort as the slide moves back.
Part of that is the camming action of the trigger bar we already talked about.
But the biggest part is the slide cocking the hammer and pressing it down until the sear locks it in place.

This is done by the center rail and the increase in effort is the drag of the hammer on the center rail as it cocks it.
I decrease this effort by polishing the center rail and polishing the face of the hammer.
Another thing I do is I round off the back edge of the center rail ever so slightly.
To me it does not make sense to have a sharp edge dragging across the hammer face as the slide moves backwards
I again use the triangular file with 3000 grit to polish both the back edge after rounding and the whole face of the center rail.


Last item for smoothing the slide is back to the firing pin block.
While moving the slide is moving the firing pin block drags across the face of the lifting arm.
I always polish the face of the firing pin block just as that last detail trying to remove any and all drag I can.
I probably makes no difference, but I can honestly say I try to leave no stone unturned when I do my action jobs.
I usually take items like this and grasp them in my fingers and do circular motions on 3000 grit sand paper until the face is mirror smooth.









« Last Edit: June 29, 2024, 07:29:59 PM by terry mc »
Terry Mc
Gloss Blue CZ-97BE-SAO

CZ Scorpion CZ Custom Trigger Pack, Streamlight TLR-1HL Primary Arms MD-ADS

CZ75 Shadow 9mm SAO

CZ RAMI 9MM

CZ TS2 Blue

SAR K12 Sport X

Offline terry mc

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Re: New Project! RAMI #2 FULL BUILD THREAD PICTURE HEAVY!!
« Reply #18 on: June 29, 2024, 07:37:01 PM »
Last bit for today.

I looked at the slide closely while doing this work and really the nicks and such I see on the frame does not appear to be present on the slide for the most part.
There is a little wear in a couple spots and on the corners of the sites.

So I am taking a page from my other guns and cleaning up the wear spots with a little Birchwood Casey Super Blue.
I also did the front edge of the rail because it is now shiny with an all black gun so it looks out of place.

Once that was done the slide looked great and really looks new again.


This spurred me to as a temporary measure touch up the frame nicks with a little
Casey AlumaBlack.

It did OK but did not bring it back to new. But a little better for now until i decide on finishes.
Terry Mc
Gloss Blue CZ-97BE-SAO

CZ Scorpion CZ Custom Trigger Pack, Streamlight TLR-1HL Primary Arms MD-ADS

CZ75 Shadow 9mm SAO

CZ RAMI 9MM

CZ TS2 Blue

SAR K12 Sport X

Offline MeatAxe

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Re: New Project! RAMI #2 FULL BUILD THREAD PICTURE HEAVY!!
« Reply #19 on: June 29, 2024, 07:53:30 PM »
^ Interesting!!

Thanks for posting!

Offline terry mc

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Re: New Project! RAMI #2 FULL BUILD THREAD PICTURE HEAVY!!
« Reply #20 on: July 04, 2024, 08:35:23 PM »
So a couple days ago my grips came in from Grips4udotnet.
I have to say every time I buy from them I am pleased with what I get.

Such nice quality with walnut grips and amazing patterns for $60.

Just cannot beat them.
Yes tactical grips are more practical but these just look so nice.



« Last Edit: July 04, 2024, 08:39:59 PM by terry mc »
Terry Mc
Gloss Blue CZ-97BE-SAO

CZ Scorpion CZ Custom Trigger Pack, Streamlight TLR-1HL Primary Arms MD-ADS

CZ75 Shadow 9mm SAO

CZ RAMI 9MM

CZ TS2 Blue

SAR K12 Sport X

Offline terry mc

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Re: New Project! RAMI #2 FULL BUILD THREAD PICTURE HEAVY!!
« Reply #21 on: July 04, 2024, 08:37:21 PM »
Ignore the missing screw. The thread insert came out with the screw and I have not got them apart yet.

Also about the grips I love the traditional CZ sweep to the back of the grip, less 1911 inspired more CZ.
Terry Mc
Gloss Blue CZ-97BE-SAO

CZ Scorpion CZ Custom Trigger Pack, Streamlight TLR-1HL Primary Arms MD-ADS

CZ75 Shadow 9mm SAO

CZ RAMI 9MM

CZ TS2 Blue

SAR K12 Sport X

Offline M1A4ME

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  • I've shot the rest, I now own the best - CZ
Re: New Project! RAMI #2 FULL BUILD THREAD PICTURE HEAVY!!
« Reply #22 on: July 05, 2024, 07:18:54 AM »
I've always been able to make light surface rust disappear with some light rubbing of oiled 0000 steel wool. 

I can't help myself.  When I clean a CZ I put a drop of oil, then wipe off the excess on:

Every pin in the frame (on what will be the top side of the frame/slide when I lay it down in the box or on the shelf after cleaning) so the oil can slowly work it's way into the frame/slide and help keep rust away.

On the side of the sights where they sit in the frame (same side, same reasons)

on the firing pin block while the slide is upside down in my hand and then push the block down, let it up, push it down, several times, to work some of the oil into the slide around the block.

On the back of the firing pin while the slide is muzzle down and then push the firing pin down, let it pop up, push it down, several times, to get it to work in between the back of the firing pin and the slide.

I put a drop on the front and back of the rails in the frame and work the slide back and forth.

I pull the hammer back farther and put a drop on the hammer notch where the sear sets in the hammer notch.

I put drops here and there in the frame to work it's way down/around pins, springs, the sear, firing pin block liftin arm, safety shaft, etc. ,etc., etc.

Yeah, too much oil runs out, somewhere.  Not enough oil results in rust, increased wear, possible malfunctions, etc., etc., etc.

All that lint, all that dust/dirt and worse can be found on the back end of any gun I carry regularly.  Much worse on the open carry guns (while working outside around my house).  That bothers me but it's a fact of life.  What I don't find is rust.  Then again, I clean/inspect/lube my carry guns every so often whether I've shot them or not.  I was out in the rain yesterday afternoon.  I field stripped cleaned and lubed the 2.0 M&P .40 I was carrying because it got rained on.  It's much more stainless than a CZ (barrel and slide are stainless, frame plastic, no idea how many internal parts are stainless) but I still cleaned it up.  I carried my old Shield 9MM in the thigh pocket of my cargo shorts last night because I sweated and got it wet with water from the paddle while kayaking around the lake yesterday morning.  I don't believe either will rust.  If I'd been carrying the P07 or P01 I'd have done the same and they're much more likely to rust due to their materials of construction.

You can keep them clean/oiled or you can allow them to rust.

Take good care of that little pistol, CZ isn't make them any longer and many people aren't taking care of the ones they own.
I just keep wasting time and money on other brands trying to find/make one shoot like my P07 and P09.  What is wrong with me?

Offline PizzaPizza

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Re: New Project! RAMI #2 FULL BUILD THREAD PICTURE HEAVY!!
« Reply #23 on: July 05, 2024, 12:54:44 PM »
Great thread!  Thanks for taking the time to share. 

Offline terry mc

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Re: New Project! RAMI #2 FULL BUILD THREAD PICTURE HEAVY!!
« Reply #24 on: July 08, 2024, 02:46:37 PM »
Great thread!  Thanks for taking the time to share.

Thank you,

there will plenty coming, just stay tuned I am taking my time with this one.
Terry Mc
Gloss Blue CZ-97BE-SAO

CZ Scorpion CZ Custom Trigger Pack, Streamlight TLR-1HL Primary Arms MD-ADS

CZ75 Shadow 9mm SAO

CZ RAMI 9MM

CZ TS2 Blue

SAR K12 Sport X

Offline timetofly

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Re: New Project! RAMI #2 FULL BUILD THREAD PICTURE HEAVY!!
« Reply #25 on: July 08, 2024, 09:17:31 PM »
Great find.  I have a ram iD CZC 9mm and a Rami B 40 S&W.  I agree with others that say the Rami shoots like a much bigger gun.  Very accurate in the less than 15 yard range for me.  Yours looks like it’s cleaning up to be unrecognizable from the original condition thanks to your hard work.  Keep us posted with the progress as you get the upgrades installed, it will be interesting to see what changes make the biggest differences.  Good luck. 
All of life’s journeys begin by putting one foot in front of the other.

Offline terry mc

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Re: New Project! RAMI #2 FULL BUILD THREAD PICTURE HEAVY!!
« Reply #26 on: July 10, 2024, 06:41:49 PM »
Thanks Timetofly.
Yeah my last RAMI would keep up with most of my full size CZ's and put normal compacts to shame.


Lots to come.
Terry Mc
Gloss Blue CZ-97BE-SAO

CZ Scorpion CZ Custom Trigger Pack, Streamlight TLR-1HL Primary Arms MD-ADS

CZ75 Shadow 9mm SAO

CZ RAMI 9MM

CZ TS2 Blue

SAR K12 Sport X