Well, I ordered the $40 DPP plate for my P10F from Amazon. It comes in a nice package with multiple sets of screws for the plate itself and the Holosun 407C I mounted. I used the DPP screws rather than the ones that came with the Holosun for the red dot-to-plate.
I saw a (Reddit?) thread where the poster had a P10F that he buggered the optic plate cover screws trying to remove them. He said that CZ used red Loctite on the cover screws from the factory. The ones on my P10F where held in with some sort of white thread locker...the screws came out with little trouble.
The DDP screws come pre-coated with blue Loctite...that made them pretty snug as I fastened the plate to the slide. My Fixit-Stick was showing >10in/lbs just running the screws down. I stopped, removed the screws and added a drop of (wet) blue Loctite. After that they went it more easily. There appears to be ample thread engagement for the Holosun-to-plate screws as well, and the gun functions fine using the DPP screws from the packet marked HOLOS.
I just got back from the range...my first shot was 1.5" low & centered. 3 or 4 shots later I was done tweaking the Holosun. As a bonus...I can just "co-witness" the factory iron sights at the bottom of the Holosun's window.
I'm feeling better about my P10F now. My understanding is that the P10S & C are zero'd for 15 meters, and the P10F is zero'd for 25 meters using a combat hold. I was consistently shooting ~1.5-2.0" low at 7 yards with the factory sights with a center hold. If I aimed 2" high the sights were pretty much covering the 2" target stickers I use. Today the holes were appearing right where I put the dot, give or take a smidge.
My only problem now is I have to wait until tomorrow to shoot it some more.