Removal of CZ polymer finish?

[Boogalou]

Anyone ever tried to remove the modern polymer finish from their CZ?  I'm thinking there may be some kind of solvent that will take it off, or maybe having to go with the sandblasting option.

[DWARREN123]

It seems fairly resilent so I would guess bead blasting. I would like to know why you want to remove the finish, are you going to refinish?

[DOCMAN]

If you want to blue your pistol,then dust or bead blasting is NOT the way to go.On my battered old CZ75 I used a good paint-stripper and then left it acetone for 24 hours.The results were excellent.

[Walt-Sherrill]

The finish on the older CZ-75s and even the transitional models is far different than the current polycoat finish, which is very hardy.

I'd suggest you get a can (not spray bottle) of auto paint remover from an auto parts store. That's about the most powerful stuff you can find that won't eat YOU along with the gun and finish. Try it on a part of the frame under the grips. If it works, get an old paint brush, and paint the gun with that stuff, removing the bubbled up finish periodically with paper towels, and repeat until the finish is off.   (If there's an auto body shop nearby, you might talk to them to see what they'd suggest for getting that finish off.  They have to strip, sometimes, too.)

Be warned: CZ applies a manganese phosphate finish under the polycoat, and the finish itself, when all is removed, won't be pretty and without blemishes. Some polishing will be in order -- and if you're going to have it refinished, your best bet is to let the refinisher do ALL the work.

[Boogalou]

The finish on the older CZ-75s and even the transitional models is far different than the current polycoat finish, which is very hardy.  
 
  I'd suggest you get a can (not spray bottle) of auto paint remover from an auto parts store. That's about the most powerful stuff you can find that   won't eat YOU along with the gun and finish. Try it on a part of the frame under the grips. If it works, get an old paint brush, and paint the gun with   that stuff, removing the bubbled up finish periodically with paper towels, and repeat until the finish is off. (If there's an auto body shop nearby, you   might talk to them to see what they'd suggest for getting that finish off. They have to strip, sometimes, too.)  
 
  Be warned: CZ applies a manganese phosphate finish under the polycoat, and the finish itself, when all is removed, won't be pretty and without blemishes.   Some polishing will be in order -- and if you're going to have it refinished, your best bet is to let the refinisher do ALL the work.

 

I've used the auto paint remover on a older CZ75 with good results, and what little of the finish was left I sandblasted off. Knowing how much more durable the current finish is, I kinda have my doubts over how well the paint remover will work, maybe it would just take a little longer. The acetone soak sounds promising in that regard. I'm not really concerned about the parkerized base coat, as I could just refinish with duracoat.

 

I'm basically just thinking out loud about the possibilities of different DIY finish options for the newer type CZ pistols.

 

[Radom]

Personally, I wouldn't even consider removing a 1996 or later polycoat. As others have mentioned, the white metal underneath is not polished as it is on a nickel or blued model. My guess is that the only things that will faze the later polycoats are substances best left to professionals, like benzene or acetone solutions. Then the pistol will need to be extensively polished and deburred.

[dubyar2u]

I have a combat 85 that was originally 2 tone (black slide/nickel frame) and it is only 2 years old.
If you have the time and different grades of sand paper (I used 4 grades of synthetic) along with
some Flitz, you can do it yourself. {See pictures, now and before.} I did the barrel 1st and then decided
to take-on the slide. The latter taking a bit of time: 2 or 3 hrs. at a time, a couple times per wk. for about 4 wks. Sand 1st and always polish with the Flitz after every sanding! I did mine by hand- no power tools,
and it is still a project in process. I want to eventually achieve a bright, almost chrome-like finish on the slide. Hope this helped you out, and isn't info that arrived too late!

[dubyar2u]

BTW, I didn't worry much when I 1st thought "Hey, maybe I can do the slide just like the barrel!"
After-all they are both stainless steel. (underneath)
Has anyone tried this with a slide that is made of "carbon steel" ? Can someone tell me the difference
between carbon steel and stainless???
The reason I ask this is: I am thinking of buying a medium size 45ACP 1911 with a carbon steel slide
and aluminum frame. I would want to take the black finish off the slide, as I did my CZ.
This would be a S&W model SW1911PD sku# 108283.

P.S. How ya doin' FEG ?

[Walt-Sherrill]

I can't follow your comments, so I may have misunderstood -- but NONE of the CZ barrels are stainless.  And the only stainless metal in any of the guns is found in the STAINLESS CZ-75bs.  (The   Everything else is carbon steel (including the barrel in the stainless models.)   The slide on your 85 Combat is NOT stainless.

[dubyar2u]

I am sure I read someplace that most CZ's were all stainless steel, under whatever finish they have!
Which, doesn't make much sense, does it?
I just looked at the CZ web site, after reading your comment, and you are absolutely correct, Walt.

Any suggestions on how to keep the steel protected after removing the finish? I have simply cleaned and polished the slide and barrel on my CZ. The Flitz polish provides some corrosion protection. Iv'e had no problems so far, but then, I shoot and clean my CZ at least one time per wk.

[anesvick]

As one who has quite a few carbon steel swords, I would say as long as you oil it regularly, it should be fine... but watch storing it, and DO NOT leave it in a leather holster (seems that if one of my swords is in the room with something leather, they rust).

But if I were you... that pistol screams for a nice brushed chrome finish.

[KFD147]

Sig's and S&W M&P's have stainless slides underneath the coating. Not CZ's.

Jason

[Walther]

I used oven cleaner on mine, worked very well.
After that I used a dremel with a very soft polishing grinder wheel and then wet sand paper with light machine oill upto2400 grit.
It has been in the white for 4 years with no rust. I do however keep it oiled with some silica gel packs in the case.