CZ 452 Trigger job question

[stash]

I finally got around to doing a trigger job for my CZ 452 American. Bought it from YoDave. I put the first thinnest spacer "Blue" in the gun and installed a lighter spring. There is no take-up when pulling the trigger, I mean none. I looked at the sear engagement and it is just about holding. I am somewhat afraid, so I took out the spacer and put it back that way it was except kept the lighter spring. Any comments?---
I guess the trigger maybe has now a 1/32 " or less of take-up until it fires-I did not measure precisely--about the wall thickness of the spacer. This is a new gun never fired--probably should of shot a few boxes first but its cold here so I wanted to putter.  Any comment are welcome.

Thanks!!

Stashu

[chris42]

What are your plans for the rifle?  If you like a light trigger with little to no take up and you learn that this is the way the rifle will be, then you are set. If you and family, friends or kids will be using it, then some take up will be preferred, so it doesn't go off suddenly when some one else uses it.

I personally like a fine, crisp trigger and my 452 has exactly that. My estimate, with a "rough" 4 lb. scale, tells me that I am in the 12 ounce range for trigger pull. Creep, like yours, is almost nil.

You can also check safety on the modified trigger by using an empty .22 brass case. I typically keep a few around for dry firing my .22's. Put the empty case in the chamber, work the bolt and close it. Now bump the rubber butt of the rifle on a carpeted floor. No need to damage the rifle or the floor. If the trigger is just barely engaging the sear, it might release and this could show it to you. If this happens you obviously want to change it until it doesn't happen.

   I think this is a great little rifle. More bang for the buck than I've had in a long time. Accurate, light, smooth action, attractive.

Chris

[Nupes]

I will revive this topic even though its old.  I typically will not set a sear engagement less than about .010"  on these rifles.  You can gage this using your eyeballs and a feeler gage or a layer of three peices of typing paper (this is close to 10 thou) next to where the two surfaces interface on the sear notch.   Quite often when the cross pins are driven out (especially if you grind out the peening on the ends of some of them) they do not go back in as solid and some play gets into the system.  Some folks will go as low as .005" engagement to almost completely remove creep but I think even YoDaves instructions indicate (probably for liability reasons) you should not go less than .015".

Because of this, you should do a slap fire test on these rifles along with the drop/bump test.  Slam the bolt handle down fast to close the empty action.  All its force goes into the stop ledge at the bottom of the reicever port and through to the action parts below.  In much the same way as those hanging clacker balls transfer energy over to the other side,  all the force will work in the same direction on any slack or play in the parts.  This can add up to enough to create a slap fire condition.