P-01 Wood grips

[browndog]

From what appeared to be "stock" photos yes the compact grips did appear to have nicer wood.  The $10 bucks is not a big deal if the grips pictured were the grips you would receive and not stock photos. 

Sometimes you have to ask questions;  One of the ways to find out if that chick you like is the town pump.

[Cosmij82]

From what appeared to be "stock" photos yes the compact grips did appear to have nicer wood.  
The $10 bucks is not a big deal if the grips pictured were the grips you would receive and not stock photos.

Being over 60 years old, I've been "into" wood pistol grips and rifle/shotgun stocks
long enough to know that no two sets are exactly alike, even if these come from the
same plank. Since this is Woodworking 101 "gospel truth," I do not expect to receive
the exact grips as pictured in the seller's site. Suffice it to say that I take the seller's
word that the $10 is a premium charge for a "higher grade" walnut over that $39
regular-sized set. But I will post photos of the grips when these arrive. (I've also bought
a set of brass button screws -- like the ones I have in my 1911's -- to go with the wood
grips).  

Right now, I'm more interested in whether I'd refinish the grips with Tung
Oil or Linseed, and how many times I will have to hand rub them to bring
out the "true" character of the wood. Knowing how wood supply is dwindling
worldwide, I amazed that we're even able to buy wood grips at all. And I intend
to enjoy these while these can still be had. Soon, we will have to settle for
nothing but polymers.

I've hand rubbed stocks and grips with over 50 coats of oil (while watching TV
or the sunset), and the end results always justify the time and effort spent.
Of course, the fact that I'm retired and have nothing better to do also helps.  
.

[mkuisi8mo]

@ Cosmij82 et al,

I'm over 60 also. Getting a bit "Long in the Tooth" but never too old to pick up some good new "tricks".

So, I'm gonna lay out a "real" old-timer's secret (May He Rest in Peace!) for refinishing wood furniture (which includes pistol grips, rifle stocks, antique chairs, kitchen cabinets, etc.) that I rarely pass on. This "Ole Coot" was over 70 when he laid it onto me about 30 years ago, in the Northern Appalachians. Everyone I have ever told his "formula" to has been totally amazed at the outcome of their labors (which is usually takes up a lot less time & energy than rubbing 50 coats of plain oil into your project) and they all thanked me 'till it got thin.

I personally am going to use the formula on a set of Walnut grips I'm waiting for, for my recently acquired Polished Stainless Steel CZ 75B. (Wanted Teak, but hard to get, expensive and I'm a bit impatient - maybe later).

BTW: my daily carry is a CZ P-01, but it's currently wrapped with a Crimson Trace grip...not as form-fitting in my hand as the stock rubber grips...but the CT is worth the diff, IMO.

NOTE: This formula and procedure only works with ANY "raw" wood or wood that has had all varnish, shellac, or similar "final" finishes stripped or absent. The finish is not glossy, but I like how it looks "au natural". A light coat of Bee's Wax might buff-up nicely without hurting the wood. (Of course you could then seal it anyway your heart desires too...your call).

The object is to thoroughly clean the wood surface of any remaining residues or dusts on your project (including any sawdust remaining from the cutting, milling, planing and shaping of the wood) that have infiltrated the grain of the wood. Just because the wood looks clean doesn't mean it is! In fact it isn't! Wood is porous, comes in various densities and the pores get clogged with the "dust of the universe".

Then, you must "draw-out" the wood's natural colors, hues and grain patterns inherent in the piece you are working on, while simultaneously letting the wood drink up the oil and other natural "nutrients" the wood needs to really shine and come into it's own.

Side benefits of the formula is that:

1. You can never overdo it's application. In fact the type of wood in your project will tell you when it's had enough (generally 6-8 applications, in my experience).

2. If your project ever gets "dirty", especially from your hand oil (which no matter how much you wash your hands, cruds things up by simply touch the second after you wash them), you can rub the project down with a lint-free cotton-rag (a cotton shop rag, piece of an old flannel shirt or 100% cotton T-shirt in your rag-bin will do) soaked with the formula, applied liberally in the direction of the grain, and allowed the project to "dry" or soak-in for 24 hours. Then wipe off any excess remaining...second cleaning if needed...Oila, like new!

3. If you get a scratch or get a small nick in the wood that is driving you "batty", smooth out (going with the grain, not cross grain or circular - you'll make more scratches) with extra-extra-fine steel wool, then do Number Two (above).


Now the Formula & Other equipment...BTW the four ingredients do not mix at all (sorta like Arabs & Jews, Conservatives & Liberals, etc. LOL). So, you must constantly be shaking the mixture up prior to soaking your working "rag".

Hardware:

Quart Glass Mason Jar with screw-on lid (a large Mayo or wide-mouth quart pickle jar will do) and your 100% lint-free cotton application rag. (You can throw the rag out after your finished, unless you have a touch of OCD...then do your thingy!) LOL

Ingredients:

Equal parts of:

1. Boiled Linseed Oil (It MUST BE Boiled!)
2. Turpentine
3. Wood Alcohol
4. Apple Cider vinegar


All the ingredients are cheap, readily available natural wood bi-products. Simple but does the job. ALL woods love
it. Try it out with a test run on some Kiln-dried "clean" scraps/cut ends (not "green" lumber) you may have lying around if you are too squeamish about jumping right in on your "main project". Pine, Fir, Oak, Maple, Cherry, Apple, Hickory, Beech, whatever - you'll be amazed at the results.

[Cosmij82]

@ Cosmij82 et al,

So, I'm gonna lay out a "real" old-timer's secret (May He Rest in Peace!) for refinishing wood furniture
(which includes pistol grips, rifle stocks, antique chairs, kitchen cabinets, etc.) that I rarely pass on... 

The wisdom of the ages!!!  Thank you very kindly for this. 

Unfortunately, according to the seller, the grips I bought has
already been given a coating of oil although these have not
been stained.

But rest assured that I have saved your formula in my computer
files for future reference.

Again, thank you very much!   
.

[mkuisi8mo]

Cosmij82 stated:

"...Unfortunately, according to the seller, the grips I bought has already been given a coating of oil although these have not been stained."

The coating of oil should pose no problem for you. (You actually got a "jump start"). As long as the grips are not stained or sealed with the likes of a varnish (or such) and only have been oiled, you should be good to go with the formula I gave you.

It sounds like your grips are a prime candidate for the "treatment". I'd do it in a heartbeat, but it's your call, they are your grips. It would be like the side benefit (2) I listed for cleaning the wood of oil and dirt that collects on the surface from normal use.

However, I bet if you treated the grips with the formula, you would see patterns and hues pop out that you (and certainly the person you obtained them from) never knew, or imagined, were even there (because of the clogged and dirty pores of wood that never was properly cleaned after fabrication, only oiled).

At most, you may get a slight darkening of the natural color as it continues to "draw-out" the wood's natural colors, hues and grain patterns inherent in the grips, while simultaneously continuing to let the wood drink-up more oil and other natural "nutrients" the wood needs to really shine and come into it's own. (Of course the previous "oiling" may have already done that for you).

The wood alcohol will evaporate with the apple cider vinegar as it cleans...the turpentine will clean the more tenacious grime and leave a slight residue that will soak into the wood with the Boiled Linseed Oil, as it sets...the cotton rag will collect the hidden "dirt". The wood will drink that concoction right up. (A cabinet maker friend couldn't believe his eyes as he watched "Cherry" suck it in like a vacuum-cleaner as he was applying it to his work...He never saw anything so simple work like the formula did). You can use a "new" clean rag with every application to collect more of the residual "gunk". Like I said, 6-8 applications with 24 hours in between is the "tits"...do more if needed. The wood will always let you know when it's had enough. Then buff it up to your hearts content.

Do it right and water will actually bead on the wood surface.

You might want to give it a treatment when you do your regular gun-cleaning or if the grips seem to be drying out a bit.

Perhaps, to ease any fears you may have, try a test spot on the inside of the grips, or oil a scrap of wood and then do a test application to mimic the condition of your grips as you now have them.

[Cosmij82]

Perhaps, to ease any fears you may have, try a test spot on the inside of the grips,
or oil a scrap of wood and then do a test application to mimic the condition of your
grips as you now have them.

Please stop mentioning that "any fears you may have" line. 

It's not that your process is any different from the oil finishing
work that I've done in the past, it's just that the formula you
gave is unique. So I will have no fear trying it out. 

My only regret is that the P-01 set of grips is too small and narrow
to really bring out the full grain patterns that, say, a rifle stock would
show, after it has been given a treatment of your formula.

Now I will have to buy a new hunting rifle stock work on! 
.

[Cosmij82]

The walnut grips arrived this afternoon, and after a couple of minutes
with a Dremel sand drum to make a "notch" for the decocker (the
grips were originally for compacts with safety levers), and then some
fine grit to take out the rough edges, this is how my P01 now looks like:



Can't wait to start some oil rubbing to really bring out those beautiful grains!  
.

[JonnyC]

bleep!  That's not much modification at all.  I may just have to order them and do the same thing, instead of waiting for the P-01 version.  How do they feel, and how do they compare to the stock rubber grips?  Same size?  Any thinner?

[Cosmij82]

bleep!  That's not much modification at all.  I may just have to order them and do the same thing, instead of waiting for the P-01 version.  How do they feel, and how do they compare to the stock rubber grips?  Same size?  Any thinner?

The seller sent a JPEG of how he suggests that the left panel be trimmed:



However, I deemed it too much and would, IMO, radically "lop off" the top right portion.
So what I did was trace the left grip on a piece of paper (including the screw hole) and
then "screwed" that paper on the frame (to approximate proper positioning). I pushed
the decocker down and traced the lower portion on the paper.

I then placed the paper on the backside of the panel and traced where the decocker
would have to go down to function. The Dremel did the work in two minutes. Additional
sanding with fine grit was about two minutes or less. So total "modification" time from
tracing to polishing: about 10 minutes!

I then excitedly cleaned off the frame's rubber adhesive residue with lighter fluid (Ronsonol,
but Zippo would do as well) and laid down the panel, used the original screw/washer and
voila!  

As expected, the right panel went on with no hitches. I like that both panels reach up to
the "ridge" of the frame, unlike the rubber ones that "fell short." Hehe!

To my hand, the grips are significantly "thin enough" than the rubber ones (I supposed because
any thinner and these would be more prone to cracking), and the palm swells are less pronounced.
But if you want "thinner" you might want to check on CZCustoms' grips which are advertised
as "thin." Just how much thinner than mine, I have no way of knowing. The CZCustoms grips
are also $1 more (hah!).

A little caveat: the seller took four business days, or seven days total, to ship (I paid
Jan. 14th, the grips were shipped on the 20th, via USPS First Class Mail). But I got them on the 23rd.
If you're counting pennies, he charges $7.00 shipping and my grips only cost $2.07 to mail.
$5 handling fee? Your call.

Me, I'm happy with the grips. Didn't like the wait (kept pestering him with emails...haha!),
and would have liked a lower shipping cost (since obviously, First Class takes as long as
Priority from his neck of the woods to mine).

But all told, I'm a happy camper...or shooter!  
.

[JonnyC]

Thank you very much for that detailed info.  If he plans on offering the P-01 grips with just the corner lopped off, I think I will order the compact grips and do just what you did.  Keep us updated on the oiling of the grips and how it goes.

[Cosmij82]

JonnyC:

I (belatedly) took a shot of the wood grips, taken from the
magwell point of view, after reading your query (if these are
"any thinner" than the rubber grip). I think the photo shows
just how much thinner these grips are: 


.

[JonnyC]

Those should be perfect!  Thanks again!  Order already placed

[Cosmij82]

Those should be perfect!  Thanks again!  Order already placed

I just got a reply email from the seller this morning:

"Hi,
Nice job with the Dremel tool.
Thanks for the pictures.
I will make the modifications on several grips on next run.

Thanks"
.

[e178058]

Those are darn good looking grips. Where did you get them?

[Cosmij82]

Those are darn good looking grips. Where did you get them?

Grips4U

http://www.grips4u.net/product_info.php?products_id=300&osCsid=a7ab778da64fdf9812691bfa8b5982da
.