Bonesteel Arms US made FCG

[dsp]

I was originally looking in to this to replace the plastic trigger on the VZ 58, I just didn't care much for the plastic trigger however durable it may be. After shooting the rifle, I realized something had to be done about the trigger pull. The best description I can come up with is that it felt very similar to dragging a spoon through a bowl of very thick oatmeal. After talking with Obiwan, I decided to get the whole fcg instead of just the trigger for what he referred to as a "slight but noticeable difference." Well sir, that is one hell of an understatement, at least on my rifle it made a HUGE difference. The trigger pull is now much, much crisper than it used to be. By the way, your tabbed bolt carrier solved the striker reset problem I was having. You were right, that little extra bit of length made all the difference. So thank you again for all your great products. I can't recommend this guy and his products enough, so please keep up the great work.

Dan

[andrewhyatt89]

Is the reset any more discernible?

[KFD147]

I had the same problem and bought a trigger and sear from Obiwanbonjovi. I makes all the difference. There is a noticable reset click and the trigger feels like my AR 2 stage trigger.


Jason

[andrewhyatt89]

I had the same problem and bought a trigger and sear from Obiwanbonjovi. I makes all the difference. There is a noticable reset click and the trigger feels like my AR 2 stage trigger.


Jason

That sounds like something I can get behind.

[stankyhollywood]

Did you guys have to narrow the trigger as described on the website or does obiwan have them fixed beforehand?

[KFD147]

I didn't have a problem at all installing the parts. They slipped right in.


Jason

[JAPartridge]

Did you guys have to narrow the trigger as described on the website or does obiwan have them fixed beforehand?

you usually only have to do that to the Century vz2008.

[stankyhollywood]

Jap, have any idea how much id have to remove?

Any experience with the czech point trigger assemblies, the all steel ones? They are a little cheaper than the bonesteel ones as far as price goes so that's why I'm asking....

[JAPartridge]

Nope, sorry, I've got a vz.58, although I'm sure you could contact ObiWan and he could tell you.  I just knew it had to be done for the vz2008 models.

[stankyhollywood]

Obiwan any insight on this? Could you have the trigger you offer cut to fit my 2008?

[ObiWanBonJovi]

I could probably do that, you are the first that asked.  I think I have a century trigger around here to copy.

[Rowe-75]

I'll take the whole firing control group when ya ship the handguards out.... If it is precut for the 2008

[sanderle]

Anyone have a good guide/process for installing the FCG?

[eth77]

It's pretty simple if you can install an e-clip <- pointing to my difficulties with same.

You can do the change without the helper rod, but I've worked on enough weapons with spring loaded parts that I included it anyway.

1. Unload the weapon
2. Rack the bolt carriers to clear the chamber
3. Pointing in a safe direction pull the trigger and release the striker
4. Remove the rear cover
5. Remove the bolt carrier, striker, bolt and bolt lock
6. Find the sear, and sear pin e-clip - note the position of the e-clip (how far it's pressed on the pin)
7. Remove the sear pin e-clip
8. With a rod a little smaller than the sear pin, inserting the rod from the left side of the receiver, push the sear pin out to the right side
9. Withdraw the sear and the safety spacer from the rod and get ready to use the rod on the trigger pin in the same way
10. Find the trigger pin, and e-clip thereon - note the position of the e-clip (how far it's pressed on the pin)
11. Remove the e-clip
12. Push the trigger pin out of the receiver to the right just like the sear pin.
13. Take the new trigger/disconnector assembly and insert it into the receiver - you may have to gently manipulate it into place
14. Fun part #1 - replace the e-clip on the trigger pin. MAKE SURE IT IS FULLY ENGAGED WITH THE TRIGGER PIN!
15. Check the sear striker stop surface for burrs from machining, if there are any, hit the edge gently with some 600 grit wet/dry DON'T ROUND THE EDGE!
16. Put the rod far enough into the receiver that you can slip the new sear onto it, and holding the sear spring down with the new sear, insert it into the new sear
17. Check that the safety has not "walked" out to the right - if so push it back in - you won't be able to install the sear if it has
18. From the right side of the receiver, reinsert the sear pin by pushing the rod to the left out of the sear. You'll need to push down on the sear somewhat to get the pin aligned on the left side.
19. The fun part - put the e-clip back on the sear pin. MAKE SURE IT'S FULLY ENGAGED!
20. Check the function of the trigger by holding the sear as if the striker were captured and see if it releases when the safety is in fire position, and will not release when the safety is in safe.
21. Reassemble the bolt grouip and check the function by racking the bolt carrier and trying the safety tests again.
22. If it passes you are ready to rock and roll!

[sanderle]

The new seer is twice as wide as the existing seer.  I'm assuming I don't reinstall the part to the right of the existing seer that seems to touch the safety connector.

Will the new setup alter any current functionality/safety?