Installing SP-01 Safeties on CZ Shadow

[Onikudaki]

Hey guys,

Just received the D-style SP-01 safeties from CZ Custom and am going to install them in my CZ SP-01 Shadow to replace the stock safeties.

Here is a picture of the D-style SP-01 safeties:



Could someone do a quick paint edit on the image above to specify which areas are most likely needed to be fitted when installing these safeties. Is it apparent which parts of the left side safety need to fitted once I pull out the stock safeties? I can already tell that the end of the shaft on the left side safety will need to be filed to fit the slot on the right side safety.

Going to try and take pictures along the way to help anyone else who might be looking to do this in the future as I could not find any detailed threads on this process.

Thanks in advance for any help!

[Stuart]

These are the two areas that usually need to be checked for fit.
Does your Shadow have a comp hammer or factory hammer in it?

[Onikudaki]

Thanks for the quick reply Stuart!

Factory hammer.

Could you clarify which areas in the picture below need to be checked for fit:

Red is the face of the ledge, blue top of the ledge, & green is the flat.

[Cesar]

Should be just blue.
Just pay attention the area is rounded and you'd ideally wanna keep profile same.
Don't file in one place but rather whole 'pad'. Pad engages sear's safety leg.

[Onikudaki]

Should be just blue.
Just pay attention the area is rounded and you'd ideally wanna keep profile same.
Don't file in one place but rather whole 'pad'. Pad engages sear's safety leg.

To keep the profile is it better to go with a fine grit sandpaper instead of a small fine grit diamond file that would not curve to the profile of the pad or just pay close attention to the profile when using a file to fit?

[NickS]

Would it not be safer to work on the safety leg of the sear Stuart?
I was under the impression that removing material from the safety pad could render the safety inoperable. Of course if too much material were removed from either place it will result in a dud safety but a sear is cheaper than a safety.
I only ask to learn as I value your knowledge.

[Stuart]

one of the general rules of working on parts is you want to work on the cheaper of the two parts in case you make a mistake.
the sear is the cheaper of the two parts.

the difficulty is to fit the sear and test you have to take the gun apart to some detail. So it is more efficient to work on the safety.
the CZ safety is designed to only block the sear, so only to put the gun into a safe condition when the hammer is cocked into the full back position.
So the blue area is where you want to fit to rotate up and block the sear in the full back position.

[Onikudaki]

one of the general rules of working on parts is you want to work on the cheaper of the two parts in case you make a mistake.
the sear is the cheaper of the two parts.

the difficulty is to fit the sear and test you have to take the gun apart to some detail. So it is more efficient to work on the safety.
the CZ safety is designed to only block the sear, so only to put the gun into a safe condition when the hammer is cocked into the full back position.
So the blue area is where you want to fit to rotate up and block the sear in the full back position.

100% agree with working on the cheaper part lol

Great tip Stuart, thank you!

For fitting the sear to the new safety do you recommend keeping the sear cage in the frame when testing fit and then removing the sear from the sear cage to file or does the sear cage not need to be disassembled to file the safety leg of the sear?

[rchaas]

Timely post, as I just made this change on mine as well with the thin safety set. 

I found that the right angle between the blue and red surfaces in your pic also required creating a flat. The one in your pic already seems to have this corner rounded a bit.  The original safety from mine (with comp hammer) had an angled flat surface instead of a right angle there.  My initial install (with no changes made to that area) worked fine until I reinstalled the mainspring.  After that, the safety would not engage (If the safety was engaged and then the mainspring was installed, the safety worked properly and would disengage, but would not reengage).   After taking a bit of material off at that right angle between blue and red surfaces, the safety would engage properly and did not change its behavior after mainspring install.

Wonder what your thoughts about this are?

[1SOW]

rchass,  does your safety "FEEL" like there is some friction when you engage or disengage the safety.  If so,  it needs a tiny bit more metal removed.  The curving of that edge, may just be removing a friction area for a little too tight safety.  I've been wrong a number of times before though.
I have a CGW adjustable sear,  and if it's adjusted to the safety arm a little too tight you can feel the  friction if testing.

[rchaas]

Thanks for reply.  That may be the effect of taking that edge off removing some material from the blue surface), but the safety doesn't feel tight or gritty.  It engages and disengages crisply and smoothly, now.

[Onikudaki]

Disassembly to get the safeties out and test fit was quite simple.

I am currently stuck on fitting the left side safety to the notch in the right side safety..

Here is the left side safety post filing:


Here is where I am stuck as far as fitment of the left side safety into the right sight safety:

As you can see from the picture above, the shaft of the left side safety will still not fully insert into the right side safety. I wanted to get some clarification before I continued.
Picture from another angle:


So my question is at this point, is it expected to have to remove material on the end of the left side safety not just to decrease the diameter of the half circle portion of the end of the shaft of the left side safety but also to increase the depth (inward) on the shaft of the safety?

Picture to further explain my question:

[Onikudaki]

^ anybody? Was hoping to get back to work on this today and at least get the left side safety to fully seat in the right safety and thus be installed in the frame.

[rchaas]

I didn't have to move the vertical flat inwards.  Is it possible u havent kept the horizontal surface truly flat (ie u removed more material at the tip and less inward so it binds up before slipping in fully.  You could make some measurements to determine whether the shaft is fully seated or not. 

[Onikudaki]

Still not sure what is causing the left side safety to not fully seat in the right sight safety notch. None the less, I have managed to file away enough material to make the fit sloppy even when not fully seated so that is no bueno. Any ideas on how I should proceed? Do I risk it by buying another left side safety and try to fit another, this time get some more detailed pointers on how to file the flat on the left side safety to keep the surface truly flat when filing to fit it to the right side safety or just have someone do the work for me?

Also any input on what could still be causing the left side safety not to fit would be great; since the part is no longer going to be used I might as well experiment and see what is causing the hang up to learn from my mistake(s).