Lubing a P09

[joatmon]

Not new to CZ's but I am wondering about lube for a P09. I mainly have Sigs and because of their tightness, I use Slip 2000 grease. On the one striker fired pistol I own, I use CLP and it works fine. Which one? Grease or oil? Thanks in advance.

[Nacho Man]

The more the merrier. I just make sure to keep it out of the striker channel and bore. I use a combo of clp and birchwood grease to keep it nice and juicy.

[reshp1]

I use grease mostly. Just simple white lithium grease seems to work just fine. I'll put a few drops of oil in the pins of the fire control group every once in a while too.

[Joe L]

Light grease on the rails and barrel.  Oil on the pins, a dap of grease on the sear/hammer interface.  I don't worry about it too much.  Same as SIGs is fine.  (I have 6.)   

[M1A4ME]

Is the P09 different from the P07 - except for size?  I ask because I have a P07 and plan to get a P09 later this summer.

So far (two cleaning/lubings) gets the same thing my other handguns get - Mobil 1.  A drop on each spring, each pin I can see, the place where the sear/hammer meet, the firing pin safety block, two drops (one at the front and one at the back on each rail), one on the barrel lug where it contacts the slide stop, one or two on the barrel near the front and anything that looks dry inside.

I don't mind lube getting on my hands/shirt.  I don't live in a dry dusty climate so there's nothing but pollen around here (lots of that) to collect in the oil.

The only thing I've ever "greased" are my M1 Garands and M1A.  I just use oil on the handguns and shotguns.  Oh, wait one, the SIG 556R gets grease on the rails because the receiver/area stays so clean vs. the AR15's the grease is good for multiple range trips (the receiver doesn't get dirty inside so the grease doesn't mix with burnt powder/residue and need to be removed every time).

[Dev]

 A talented gunsmith educated me on what makes an ideal lubricant for guns and I have followed his advice to my benefit.
  He is a big advocate of using high quality synthetic motor oil because it doesn't evaporate, run off and go dry like most CLPs on the market.
  He also mentioned that using oil allows the migration of residue away from the sliding surfaces where as grease will build it up, become gritty and abrasive.
 
 For my own firearms I use Weapons shield which has the same consistency as motor oil but has very good anti corrosion properties that works great since my guns can sit for extended times before firing.
 Also it smells like cinnamon and is non toxic.
 I run my guns slightly wet and after many rounds I find  there is even distribution of dirt and power residue away from the parts that have metal to metal contact where as grease would be a magnet concentrating dirt.   

 I'm no gun smith but this advice has worked great for me and I have never had a weapons related malfunction due to a lack of lubricant but I have friends that have.

[4.6 Punisher]

I used to use oil on everything as of yesterday. Got the wild idea of using this white grease used on paintball guns. Broke down the frame and hammer assembly and used a small amount on all the friction surfaces of the small parts.

Just FYI, the trigger bar has a small channel underneath it where the long spring sets in it. I cleaned that out really well with a tooth brush and added a moderate amount of grease.

After I reassembled everything, the DA trigger pull was the smoothest it's ever been! It no longer has that multistaged pull that I have always had to deal with! I think cleaning out that small channel and greasing it up is what made the most difference. I'm still going to use oil on the slide rails and barrel, but from now on use grease on the small intricates.

[1SOW]

A talented gunsmith educated me on what makes an ideal lubricant for guns and I have followed his advice to my benefit.
  He is a big advocate of using high quality synthetic motor oil because it doesn't evaporate, run off and go dry like most CLPs on the market.
  He also mentioned that using oil allows the migration of residue away from the sliding surfaces where as grease will build it up, become gritty and abrasive.
 
 For my own firearms I use Weapons shield which has the same consistency as motor oil but has very good anti corrosion properties that works great since my guns can sit for extended times before firing.
 Also it smells like cinnamon and is non toxic.
 I run my guns slightly wet and after many rounds I find  there is even distribution of dirt and power residue away from the parts that have metal to metal contact where as grease would be a magnet concentrating dirt.   

 I'm no gun smith but this advice has worked great for me and I have never had a weapons related malfunction due to a lack of lubricant but I have friends that have.

While not shooting the PO9,  I agree,  and like NOT having to thoroughly clean my pistol after after every shoot to remove gritty crud.    Wipe it down,  just a light re-oil and ready to go again. It's been a long time since I've had a match/range failure with a CZ 75.
Hope this doesn't jinx me. 

[Dev]

A talented gunsmith educated me on what makes an ideal lubricant for guns and I have followed his advice to my benefit.
  He is a big advocate of using high quality synthetic motor oil because it doesn't evaporate, run off and go dry like most CLPs on the market.
  He also mentioned that using oil allows the migration of residue away from the sliding surfaces where as grease will build it up, become gritty and abrasive.
 
 For my own firearms I use Weapons shield which has the same consistency as motor oil but has very good anti corrosion properties that works great since my guns can sit for extended times before firing.
 Also it smells like cinnamon and is non toxic.
 I run my guns slightly wet and after many rounds I find  there is even distribution of dirt and power residue away from the parts that have metal to metal contact where as grease would be a magnet concentrating dirt.   

 I'm no gun smith but this advice has worked great for me and I have never had a weapons related malfunction due to a lack of lubricant but I have friends that have.

While not shooting the PO9,  I agree,  and like NOT having to thoroughly clean my pistol after after every shoot to remove gritty crud.    Wipe it down,  just a light re-oil and ready to go again. It's been a long time since I've had a match/range failure with a CZ 75.
Hope this doesn't jinx me. 

 I pretty much do the same. When I first got into firearms I was told to clean after every range trip thinking this was a good habit but later found out that not only was it not necessary but frequent cleanings is not ideal for the gun. So now I inspect and add a few drops before every range trip and it has served me well. When I do eventually clean I am thorough.

[Joe L]

When I do eventually clean I am thorough.

Me, too.  The worst thing you can do to frame parts next to running them dry is to try to clean them with q-tips and solvent without taking the parts out of the frame.  All you do is force the grunge in between the contact surfaces.  Much better to leave the grunge undisturbed and the surfaces swept clean and just add a little oil until you can completely disassemble the frame parts and clean them, then put the parts back together, clean and lubed. 

Joe

[M1A4ME]

Anyone using brake cleaner or carb. cleaner (the spray cans) to clean the frames out on their CZ pistols?  I use it on my Glock/XDM/M&P pistols.  I use it on my AR15's.  After the crud stops running out I let them dry and then use a spray oil to get lube back in the small nooks/crannies that a drop of Mobil 1 here and there won't reach right away.

[jrsczP09]

Anyone using brake cleaner or carb. cleaner (the spray cans) to clean the frames out on their CZ pistols?  I use it on my Glock/XDM/M&P pistols.  I use it on my AR15's.  After the crud stops running out I let them dry and then use a spray oil to get lube back in the small nooks/crannies that a drop of Mobil 1 here and there won't reach right away.

I use the poly safe powder blast in my lowers all the time.  After 3 or 4 range sessions I just spray them out and re-lube.  Works like a charm.  Thanks to Joe.L, I will now be able to tear the whole gun down and give a good cleaning once every 6 months or so...

[Dev]

When I do eventually clean I am thorough.

Me, too.  The worst thing you can do to frame parts next to running them dry is to try to clean them with q-tips and solvent without taking the parts out of the frame.  All you do is force the grunge in between the contact surfaces.  Much better to leave the grunge undisturbed and the surfaces swept clean and just add a little oil until you can completely disassemble the frame parts and clean them, then put the parts back together, clean and lubed. 

Joe

I bought and retuned an ultrasonic cleaner. I originally thought this might be the best way to clean a hand gun or a bolt on an AR but it turns out that ultrasonic cleaners can erode the clearances of parts due to cavitation if the entire piece is not disassembled to bare parts.