Post Trigger job: want more

[chrisjohn]

Okay, had some trigger work done.  Its hugely better, 2.5 lb pull with a little creep.  My question is, is pulling out the firing pin safety mechanism and replacing with pre-B sear worth doing or should I be satisfied?

Id really like to be around 2 lbs or less, without following.

[Stuart]

The one I have breaks about 1.8# on the SA with no creep..no FPS.

I used to have one with the FPS in .. and it broke about 2# but you could feel the lever lift the safety..I pulled the parts out and polished the bejezzus out of them and the tunnel..and got it so you could not feel the parts move and it was OK then

[elsolo75]

The main reason to remove the FPBL is to shorten trigger reset. If you clean up the FPB then it is negligable on triggerpull.
Other things to do other than replace the hammer: put in a 15# mainspring, polish all moving parts in the trigger assy such as sides of triggerbar, sides of hammer where pins go through, etc.

If you do deide to remove the FPBL: since you allready had the triggerjob, I wouldn't replace the sear, thet would require more fitting. I would remove the blocker pin, then grind the lower protrusion off the blocker lever so the triggerbar can't touch it.

[chrisjohn]

All the recommended has been done.  Just wish I could get it down past 2 lbs.

[Walt-Sherrill]

Put in a lighter hammer spring...  That's the easiest next step.

[Matthew Mink]

I believe there is someone else around the Little Rock area that comes highly recommended in the CZ world that could have gotten it down to 1.5# very easily.

[Miossi Gun Works]

As stated by removing all parts and stoning and polishing them so they are free of machine marks and super slick with a mild cutting compound followed by a pure polishing compound on a 6 or 8 inch loose muslin wheel.  Pay attention to the trigger bar sides and disconnector tops on the trigger bar.  On the rear of the trigger bar both the top and bottom, the top area where it rides on the right where it slips under the safety lever bearing surface and the bottom should be stoned flat and polished and the angled tail. Check where the trigger bar spring rides in the two groves and the tips of the spring.  Stone and polish the FPB plunger channel with a .250 round hard Arkansas stone and felt bob, on the plunger itself stone and polish the area that the lever presses on to lift it up and the lever too. The hammer strut should be filed, stoned and polished to a round configuration to prevent spring binding and apply high temp grease under the spring.  The hammer, trigger and disconnector sides should be lightly stoned and polished as the pivoting should be friction free. Polish all pivot pins and the insides of the frame should receive the same treatment, a 1/4" India stone is good for this especially where the bottom of the disconnector rides.  On the slide stone the disconnector cut outs flat across and then polish to a mirror bright finish.  You can also de tension the trigger return spring but be careful not to go to far and do this before restaking the trigger pin because if you go too far you will need to remove the spring to bend it back.  You can remove an extra pound with this spring alone. A 15lbs spring should be standard and if you reload and use Federal primers you can clip 3 coils off and still get reliable ignition.

The real advantage to removing the FPB system is a shorter trigger reset as you do not need the FPB lever to reset which is always last to reset and you can tune the timing of the gun in as far as when the sear and hammer breaks.  If you use one of our custom hard sears you can make the trigger break early or late in its pull as the pads are oversized and need to be trimmed.

Jim

Miossi Gun Works LLC
702 Park Dr
Monticello, IA 52310

[angus hobdell]

Well there you have it, a quite after noon at the work bench is all it takes :-)