what size punch?

[BDG]

ok, i'm going to get the brownell rolled pin punch. whats the size i will need to use on the firing pin roll pin and the trigger pin section?  is it the 1/16th?

Assuming your working on a CZ 75 series-
The 1/8" RP punch fits the FPRP roll pin very well.
The 3/32" fits the trigger pin after getting it started with a starter punch.
When reinstalling RP's the RP Holder punches are often the third hand you wish you had during these tasks.
*Remember to be sure your FP is fully inserted before replacing the FPRP. Failure to do so will cause the RP to bind on the FP.
pin2 by bdgcz75, on Flickr
pin1 by bdgcz75, on Flickr
Starter punch
IMG_1330 by bdgcz75, on Flickr
The roll pin holder punch allowed me to hold the slide, punch and align the pin and hold in the FP with one hand while driving the pin with the other hand. Definitely, a third hand...
IMG_1358 by bdgcz75, on Flickr

Enjoy the Smithing... it has definitely added to my overall enjoyment of the CZ pistols.

[cusco19]

I'll be working on a P01

[gdawgs56]

I'll be working on a P01

Did you get the slave pin from CGW for the sear cage?

[BDG]

I'll be working on a P01

Cool, that's a P01 in the photo's.

[cusco19]

I'll be working on a P01

Did you get the slave pin from CGW for the sear cage?

No I didn't. I saw that you can use the pin from the hammer spring section to hold the sear in place.

BDG: cool.. that's good to know.. feel more comfortable doing this then.

[BDG]

I'll be working on a P01

Did you get the slave pin from CGW for the sear cage?

No I didn't. I saw that you can use the pin from the hammer spring section to hold the sear in place.

BDG: cool.. that's good to know.. feel more comfortable doing this then.

TOCZF has several pictorials and videos that will help keep you out of trouble.
This one is a P-01 specific pictorial that you may find useful. http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=68279.0

[cusco19]

Sweet.. Thanks BDG

[BDG]

I'll be working on a P01

Did you get the slave pin from CGW for the sear cage?

No I didn't. I saw that you can use the pin from the hammer spring section to hold the sear in place.

cusco, I don't remember reading that the Main spring plug pin could be used as a slave pin in the sear cage assembly. But, I thought this would be valuable to know if ever needed. So, I removed the plug pin and compared it to the CGW sear slave pin.
I caution you, these pins are NOT dimensionally compatible! The slave pin is much smaller in diameter and longer.
Approx. measurements. (Got busy on my way back to the computer and lost the exact figures into the black hole that used to contain brain material)
     Slave Pin .06" x .76"
     Main spring pug pin .17" x .6"
When pushing the slave pin out of the assembled sear cage with the sear pin the slave pin must be small enough to exit the alignment hole on the right side of the frame. I do not believe that the plug pin is small enough in diameter is exit this hole.
In my next disassembly of the sear cage assembly I will measure the sear pin to see if the plug pin could be used as a slave pin in the sear cage at all.
I know of a technique for removing a slave pin from the sear cage and then inserting the sear pin while the assembly is in the frame but having the correct slave pin is much preferred.

[cusco19]

when you remove the extractor out, should you cock back the hammer or even put it in the decocked position?  i noticed some of the video where they had the hammer cocked back and when driving a slave pin through, it caused things to fall out of place; possible due to tension on the springs in the extractor?

yet when they put the extractor back into the frame, the hammer is back in normal position without being cocked or decocked position.

[cntrydawwwg]

Extractor?? Do you mean the sear? Just want to make sure I'm on the same page. If your talking about removing the sear cage then first you want to take out the hammer spring. That will remove the tension on the hammer and the hammer will move freely. FWIW you won't need to "drive" out the sear pin with the slave pin. Once the slave pin gets started you should be able to "push" the slave pin in. I pulled a clothes pin apart and used it to push the slave pin. Really saved my thumb. Hope this helps.

[gdawgs56]

I would really suggest you getting the slave pin or using a cut q tip because the main spring plug pin is very short and skinny.

[cusco19]

sorry guys.. i'm getting my terms mixed up.  yea i was referring to the sear cage.

i saw using Qtip as slave pin would work too.. so might give that a try.

[Tok36]

sorry guys.. i'm getting my terms mixed up.  yea i was referring to the sear cage.

i saw using Qtip as slave pin would work too.. so might give that a try.

I believe that the Q tip is only used to resemble and reinstall the sear cage, i am not sure that you could use one to keep the sear cage assembled while removing it. I could be wrong here.

Ether way it would put you in business, the slave pin is not required for disassembly unless you want to keep the sear cage assembled. The Q tip would allow you to get thing back together.

[cusco19]

well, guess i'll figure out a way to run the sear cage pin through..

[BDG]

The drawback with the Q-tip and an issue we just dealt with in another post is... the Q-tip can bind on the exit hole or can bend and not line up with the exit hole at all. In the previous post that dealt with this problem the OP kept have the sear assembly fall apart and send springs flying because the Q-tip was bending when he pressed on it with the sear pin.

One thing that has become crystal clear to me is that there are many techniques when Smithing on CZ's and a few rules to keep you out of trouble.